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climbing-buff
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Mar 30, 2003, 1:09 AM
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Hi I've been climbing for about 3 months in a gym twice a week. I want to take a trip in the summer somewhere outdoors so I can really experience climbing. If anyone knows of good places to go with moderate-kind of hard sport climbing I'd really appreciate it. And if theres anything special I should know before I head out feel free to let me know. Thanks!
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renobdarb
Mar 30, 2003, 1:30 AM
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Depends on how far you wanna drive... come on out here to the Black Hills of SD... we have tons of places to climb all over the Hills, all experience levels on both limestone and granite...
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phyre
Mar 30, 2003, 1:46 AM
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I don't know your area real well but I have a little advice. I've helped many people start climbing outside and they have all (including myself) been surprised by how different it is. Even if you have climbed for a while inside it is important to have a partner with sufficient outdoor experience. Many details are either overlooked or taken for granted in a gym setting.
That said, congrats on geting outside. I'm sure you'll love it.
I hope you have a good trip.
Phyre
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misha
Mar 30, 2003, 1:57 AM
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Moderate to hard sport climbing?
How hard do you climb after only 3 months.
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moeman
Mar 30, 2003, 2:09 AM
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You need to tell us
1. how hard you climb
2. what knids of climb you like
3. how much time you have, etc.
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climbing-buff
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Mar 30, 2003, 2:34 AM
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well I can't really get over a 5.10 5.11 and I wouldn't mind driving 10 or so hours. I guess 5.10 really isn't that hard so i should say easy-meduim climbs :wink: I can do some overhangs nothing with too hard of a pitch, i'm sort of a large person (5'11 200lbs rather muscular) so i'm not good at those yet. I was thinking of RRG in Kentuckey.....Is that good for a 1st time outdoor climber??
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whitefingers
Mar 30, 2003, 6:07 PM
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I think your gonna find that a 5.10 in the gym is a different story when your outside on real rock and the holds arent marked with tape. You might want to start off with some 5.7 or 5.8 to get your feet wet. Are going to TR or sport climb? Make sure you go with someone who has some outdoor experience so you have some good anchors etc. . Good luck! If you thought you were addicted to the gym, wait 'till your pull some real rock! All the best.
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climbing-buff
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Mar 30, 2003, 8:43 PM
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It's going to be sport climbing. TR is trad I'm guessing? thanks for the advice I am planning on going with someone who has climbed outside before. I can't wait summer seems sooooo long away!
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thegodfather
Mar 30, 2003, 8:56 PM
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TR means toprope.
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moeman
Mar 30, 2003, 9:00 PM
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TR stands for top-rope
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moeman
Mar 30, 2003, 9:04 PM
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Seems like TGF beat me to it
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leader2
Mar 31, 2003, 5:09 PM
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Jackson Falls in southern IL has sport routs of all levels. RRG is also a
good sport area
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jbrd528
Mar 31, 2003, 5:39 PM
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Whitefingers brought up a good point. Dont expect to climb 5.10 your first time outdoors. I have climbed several 5.10c/d in the gym but I have only climbed 3 5.10 outside. Two of which I had to work for a couple of days.
I would think about going to a place that offers climbs in the 5.7 to 5.8 range as well. Leading a 5.10 in a gym is not really that hard, most of the time the draws are alreay placed and hand and foot hold are marked. I have never draws preplaced on a 5.10 before and for that fact a 5.11.
Start off easy on an easy climb that is well protected and see how comfortable you are after you have lead several climbs well within your ability. FYI my first outdoor sport lead was a 5.7.
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rocit87
Apr 1, 2003, 6:45 AM
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I highly recommend Jackson Falls in Southern Illinois as a crag to start off at. It's where i got my outdoor climbing start, so i'm very partial to it. Great camping and hiking with easy approches to climbs. But definitly hook up with someone who has some outdoor experience and learn from their experience.
roc on
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brendodb
Apr 1, 2003, 7:48 AM
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...just some thoughts...
1) you say you have been climbing in a gym for 3-months... has this been on TR (top-rope) or indoor sport-leading...
if only TR then you should learn the proper technique for sport leading before you go on your trip... it will make the whole thing much more enjoyable...
2) you can climb 5.10's in the gym... which is good but like everyone else said... it is usually much tougher outside... so start w/ something easier 5.7 or 5.8... and if that seems too easy then go for it....
3) go with someone who is experienced... sounds like you have someone... which is awsome...
4) if you are thinking of RRG (red river gorge) go for it... the climbing is great and there is a large variety of different skill levels... and if you go there make sure to stay at Miguel's Pizza.... not only is it the best pizza ever but there are always lots of great climber folks to meet and get good beta from...
5) no matter where you decide to go.. check the weather conditions for the area and season and buy the guide book.... guide books are indespensible...
and like i said before... make sure you have lead technique down... from tying in (simple but important) to switching anchors and lead-belaying...
have fun... be safe... and climb-on...
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overlord
Apr 1, 2003, 9:59 AM
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the biggest problem outdoors for newbies is fiding the holds and trusting them. and LOOKING where you place your feet.
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climbsomething
Apr 1, 2003, 10:30 AM
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Don't mean to be the bitch who bursts your bubble, but...
You haven't said if you can lead. This is fundamental. Now, I enjoy a toprope myself, and you can too. You don't have to be the ropegun, leading every climb on your trip, but be able to lead at least some. I can speak from experience- nobody wants to drive hundreds of miles with somebody who won't share the leading burden. On a related note, be able to provide gear.
If you don't like overhangs, um, you might want to skip the Red. Red River Gorge is known for its steepness.
Go outside BEFORE your trip. (Maybe my living in southern Arizona has spoiled me, since I can theoretically climb outside any day of the year if I feel like it). Getting on real rock will acquaint you with approaches, heights and exposure, route-finding, bugs and dirt (seriously!) Sample different styles of climbing- slabs, vert, steep jugs, crimps, slopers, etc. I imagine your trip won't be confined to just one crag with one style of climbing.
In short, train harder for your trip. 2x-week for 3 months in a gym is a start, but it's a pretty sheltered climbing experience. You're going to want to broaden your skills and technique, and up your strength before committing to a trip. As has been stated, 5.10 indoors (on toprope?) is nothing to sneeze at, BUT for some reason it's not terribly difficult to attain (esp. for guys). And another word on Strength... well, call me a snob, but this has IN FACT been -my- experience- sport climbing is fairly limited and not infrequently boring if you're a <5.9 climber. Be able to confidently follow, at least, into the 10s.
More stuff to know: How to rappel. How to clean trad gear (if your partner decides to take a trad detour). How to set up and tear down an anchor. Basic first aid and general outdoors etiquette. SAFETY... a whole 'nother ball of wax, that I can't possibly get into here. Pick your experienced friends' brains and read lots of books- the Falcon How to Rock Climb series is good. Many people will also recommend Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills.
Train. Ejukate. Then... go outside and climb! :mrgreen:
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climbing-buff
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Apr 2, 2003, 12:45 AM
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thanks a bunch yeah for now i've been leading i'm saving up for some draws. Thanks for all the info and suggestions, i really can't wait to go
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ecocliffchick
Apr 2, 2003, 2:49 PM
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Am I the only one who climbs at a gym where the routes are way harder than the outdoor grades? I mean, if I can make my way up a 5.9 or 5.10- at my gym I feel like I've had a really strong day and I'll consistently flash 5.11 outside. Remember, not all gyms are equal. This guy may be leading 5.10 in the gym and be quite happy on 5.11 outside if his gym is anything like mine.
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ptone
Apr 3, 2003, 10:09 PM
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I'm also pretty new to outdoor climbing. The thing i think is the most different is the holds/rock texture. The gym starts super sticky, can get a little packed and shiny, but you get used to the limited shapes etc. Outdoors rock texture varys a huge amount, and holds can look way different, and feel even more so.
Also falling on a 5-10 or 11 in the gym is relatively safe-feeling, vertical to steep, with nice close 1/2" bolts, pretty flat wall but for the placed holds. Outdoors it may not be so pretty, with ledges or bumps, aretes to swing into, nasty texture to scrape down, wind and sun and trees and well distanced bolts which may be close for outdoors, but seem runout compared to the gym. This can play havoc with your headspace, and drop you a point or two on the griptrip alone!
Go bouldering, play on different rock, like someone said before, try to get outside before your trip, so the first bit isn't only about getting used to the small stuff.
Also, my friend had me go way over my head in the gym and climb til fell, to get more used to it.
HAVE FUN!!! :D
-p
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