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naturalhigh
Mar 31, 2003, 12:44 PM
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Just wondering if people have techniques/tips they'd like to share for putting up a bolted sport route on lead (w/ a hand drill). Do you just try and onsite it and pray your endurance is up to the challenge of spending a couple of hours on the route or do you use, say, an aid ladder and a few hooks to help you stay on the rock?
I guess the question I'm really asking is what does it mean to bolt on lead. Rap bolting is obvious but how does one go about putting up a 5.10+ bolted vertical face climb in sandstone on lead? (am I a wimp for even contemplating using my aiders to stand in while drilling?)
before putting up this route I of course will attempt to contact those individuals who have been bolting most of the routes there, but I am curious as to what the rc.com community has to say about this as well.
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roughster
Mar 31, 2003, 12:49 PM
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Your going to need some hooks at the minimum and I would suggest RBs for gaps without any hookable features. If you go 1/4 or 5/16 RBs you will be surprised at how fast you can get up a route, even drilling by hand. Fortunately for you sandstone is pretty easy to get through with a hand drill. Now if you were developing granite, solid limestone, or Quartz, you would be screwed!
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ezjay40
Mar 31, 2003, 1:26 PM
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well ur head is in the right spot!
now if ur climbing in tru stile it's no longer sport. "A" u just need enough so u don't take the big one. Whatever that maybe.
what does it mean to bolt on lead? Are u up for the change ,that what it means,nothing more nothing less.
Nothing ventured nothing gained.
spending a couple of hrs.> I don't think so! couple days , months or even a couple of yrs. It's all about the adventure
so have a good one
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theooze
Mar 31, 2003, 1:41 PM
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Bolting ground-up usually involves lots of aid. IMO, it's mostly an obsolete transition "ethic" that was used to first introduce/justify bolting in traditional areas.
IMO, if you're going to bolt a sport route, you owe it to the community to TR the route, carefully consider the location of the bolts, then rap bolt it. (That is, assuming that the route is TR-and rap-bolt-able).
Too many sport routes bolted ground-up are badly bolted as a result.
If you want to try bolting on lead, however, invest in some adjustable daisies. Makes hanging on hooks and such much easier.
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melekzek
Mar 31, 2003, 2:28 PM
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On the other hand you cannot rapbolt a multipitch alpine-sport route, you need to do it on lead.
(err... they seem 2 confilicting terms, alpine and sport)
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theooze
Mar 31, 2003, 9:27 PM
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Even on the long routes, I think a lot of bolts get placed on rappel. Each each pitch gets aided, the next set of belay anchors goes in, then the pitch is cleaned and equipped for the send.
I could be wrong...
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naturalhigh
Apr 1, 2003, 10:39 AM
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thanks for the replies... from talking with other locals I think I may place TR anchors first, climb/clean it on TR and mark bolt locations (considering fall protection and ease of clip) and then lead it ground up, since it will be possible to use aid gear to supply a good stance.
coming from a person who has more trad experience than sport, my ethics have been molded in a particular fashion and I feel that bolting it on lead (but still making sure to bolt w/ consideration to future ascents) will make the experience more enjoyable and rewarding.
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theooze
Apr 1, 2003, 10:58 AM
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In reply to: ...I think I may place TR anchors first, climb/clean it on TR and mark bolt locations (considering fall protection and ease of clip) and then lead it ground up, since it will be possible to use aid gear to supply a good stance.
That sounds reasonable. It's a responsible approach. Still, once I'd TR'd it and all, the ground-up bolting seems a bit contrived. If it was me, I'd rap-bolt, send and move on to my next project.
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alpinerockfiend
Apr 2, 2003, 5:38 AM
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In reply to: Even on the long routes, I think a lot of bolts get placed on rappel. Each each pitch gets aided, the next set of belay anchors goes in, then the pitch is cleaned and equipped for the send. I could be wrong...
I think that some of Piana and Skinner's routes on some of the huge granite faces in Africa were rap-bolted.
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merlin
Apr 11, 2003, 6:13 PM
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just make sure u use the no glue bolts, u dont wanna have to wait ages before u can clip.
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