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superbum
Apr 4, 2003, 5:53 AM
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I did a search, but got tired muddling through all of the quickdraw threads to find a specific answer so here we go...
Do you use your quickdraws with the gates on the carabiners facing opposite directions, or the same? I personally make sure they face the same direction. I'll write back and tell you why when my frickin roomate turns down the TV so I can concentrate!
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agentoffortune
Apr 4, 2003, 6:01 AM
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Personally, I put the biners with the gates facing opposite directions. That way you can clip them to the bolt and then clip the rope to the draw using pretty much the same motion. It seems smoother for me. But it doesn't really matter all that much.
Richard
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leader2
Apr 4, 2003, 2:22 PM
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I keep the gates on my draws facing the same diriection. It keeps from always clipping the same way. If the rout calls for the binner to face a diffrent direction it is esier to do. If you get used to clipping one way and you pink point somthing you might have problems if the gate is a difrent direction. I dont pink point but I make shure I place the gate in the correct direction.
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jbrd528
Apr 4, 2003, 2:38 PM
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I have mine so the gates face the same direction. This will keep the top biner from resting on the bolt with the nose of the carabiner if you are climbing to the left or right of it. If you biners gates are opposed and your bottom biner is orientated so that the axis of the biner is facing the direction of your intended travel, the top biners gate is not facing the direction of travel. If you climb to the side of it and the draw moves alot the is a greater change of the nose to rest on the bolt hanger.
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melekzek
Apr 4, 2003, 6:22 PM
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I used to have them opposite oriented, because I used to rotate the bolt carabiner such that its gate will face downward.
But recently I stopped rotating them, and now I orient them to the same side....
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caughtinside
Apr 9, 2003, 6:18 AM
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I have them face the opposite way, just because the Mambas come that way. I like it.
I've seen that thing by so and so at black diamond a couple times now. My fear is that because black diamond sells expensive gear and everyone loooves camalots, that black diamond say-so will become law.
Look at the 'brand of death' thread in Gear Heads. It raises some interesting points. I don't hate black diamond. I like camalots. But keep your mind open!
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jt512
Apr 10, 2003, 2:30 AM
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The draws should be set up with the gates on the same side. This minimizes the chances of the top biner unclipping when the draw is oriented correctly for the direction the route travels above. An extensive discussion can be found at the link below:
http://tradgirl.com/...ety_2.htm#unclipping
-Jay
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superbum
Apr 10, 2003, 4:08 AM
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Yes! jt512 is on the money!
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caughtinside
Apr 10, 2003, 4:46 AM
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I don't know, Jay.
Do you, *gasp* dare disagree with BD?!?!
It depends! It depends!
:shock:
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overlord
Apr 11, 2003, 10:40 AM
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i have them oriented in opposite directions because they come that way :P
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jt512
Apr 15, 2003, 10:57 PM
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In reply to: I don't know, Jay. Do you, *gasp* dare disagree with BD?!?! It depends! It depends! :shock:
Actually, BD used to disagree with me! A couple years ago, however, they changed their position and now set up their draws with the gates on the same side. They explained why (the reason I gave) in their catalogue the year they changed.
-Jay
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petsfed
Apr 15, 2003, 11:10 PM
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Jay's on it. Not really a need for more discussion at least in a bolt clipping situation. Trad's a whole other issue.
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carnaged
Apr 20, 2003, 8:49 PM
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I would think clipping the draw, where the gate is facing the other way, as in, if you're climbing to the right of the draw, the gate should be facing left.
I've been told there's a chance if you fall, the rope can actually unclip itself if the gate is facing the way of the climber.
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thomasribiere
Apr 21, 2003, 3:56 PM
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I'm right with the explanations from the BD's guy posted by brad. I think it's important especially in trad or alpine routes maybe less in short sport climbing routes where the bolts don't "zigzag".
I personnaly have quickdraws with the gates facing opposite directions, but I clip them with 2 consecutive precautions:
- the gate of the biners must not hurt the rock so it won't open.
- I try to always have the rope-end biner with its gate facing the opposite direction of the climber's ascent.
Usually, with 2 or 3 different sizes of quickdraws (I own 4, 5 and 7'' approximatively long quickdraws) you can face all situations in sport climbing I guess.
8)
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skiorclimb
Apr 29, 2003, 9:44 AM
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The gates should be facing the same way for a good reason. When you clip the bolt you should have some idea of what direction the climb heads in above the bolt. Having made that decision the rope beiner should be oriented to have the spine facing the direction the rope will be pulling. When the rope feeds through the beiner it will turn the top beiner now and then. With gates opposed the top beiner could end up resting on the gate.
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