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chillyweather
May 1, 2003, 1:54 AM
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What is the best way to rack nuts? Currently i have a couple sets, spread out over 3 biners by size range. However, I'm afraid of dropping them whenever I'm trying to make a placement, any advice?
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geckoee
May 1, 2003, 1:56 AM
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I put a 2 foot runner on my racking biener. That way if I drop it I don't loose it.
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lifeguard4
May 1, 2003, 1:58 AM
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In reply to: What is the best way to rack nuts?
Personally I try to avoid racking my nuts.
I'm sorry I had to do it. But any why I keep my nuts on biners. About three per biner. At first I was kind of afraid of dropping a bunch of them but after a while you get the hang of it and it works out great and I still haven't dropped a biner full of nuts.
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bandycoot
May 1, 2003, 2:08 AM
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maybe you should try keeping a set on each camabiner so that if you drop one carabiner you have two sets still of all sizes. I've never dropped a nut biner before, or any gear biner for that matter, and I've been climbing for years. Why are you carrying 3 sets of nuts anyways? It better be for big wall!
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repete
May 1, 2003, 2:35 AM
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I have two sets of nuts and what i do with them is i split each set in half so that gives you 2 biners with small nuts and 2 with big ones. Then i generally put a biner of large nuts and a biner of small nuts on each side of my harness so that i can always access any size with either hand.
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whichwayisup
May 1, 2003, 6:26 PM
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Sounds to me like repete already has the best racking option. If you drop one set you are still covered. I am also assuming you don't carry a gear sling just rack everything on your harness.
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apolobamba
May 1, 2003, 6:50 PM
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I break the group into small and larger. Two sets of nuts- You must be sewing it up. Why do you need so many?
Why would you worry about dropping them? Do got the DTs?
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traddad
May 1, 2003, 8:15 PM
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I rack as many nuts as I can get on 3-4 key lock ‘biners. There are at least two schools on how to remove nuts from the rack and place them:
1) Rack nuts according to size on biners with the gate pointing out and down. Look at the crack, judge the size, choose the nut, grab it and move it and every nut in front of it up onto the gate, open the gate and hold the other nuts up with your middle and ring finger while you slip the one you want off the biner with your thumb and forefinger. I’m not explaining this well, but try it, you’ll see how to do it.
2) Remove the entire biner full of nuts off your harness or sling and proceed to choose which nut by trying several in the crack. When you’ve found the right one, set it, remove the biner with the rest of the nuts and replace it on your harness/sling.
Both methods have draw backs. Method one requires that you have a good eye for size or you’ll be re-racking a lot. It also requires some manual dexterity, which is at a premium when you’re pumped. With method two you run the risk of dropping a whole biner full of nuts. That would REALLY Blow.
I REALLY like repete's idea of splitting two sets and racking them seperately. I usually carry two sets with the small or large nuts left out according to the prevailing crack size and my propensity to use cams.
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straightedgeteen
May 3, 2003, 2:22 PM
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I put my micros on one biner, ones w/o holes on one biner, ones with holes another biner. its easy like that. P.S. I use only black diomond but will be ordering some HB brassies soon
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tkambitsch
May 3, 2003, 2:55 PM
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I started with one set of BD Stoppers and kept them on one biner. Over time I bought/found a number of individual mid-sized nuts. Now I use two biners and spit the duplicates between the bines with small to medium on one with medium to large on the other. If I drop one set, I still have most of my range covered.
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pico23
May 4, 2003, 4:57 AM
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I carry 1.5 sets of nuts. 3-13 BD sizes and 4-8 or 9 BD.
I split the nuts into 3 biners.
2 DMM wirelocks (key lock wires with a big basket = no NOTCH) for the main set. I split the main set into 2 sets 3-9 and 10-13 (or something like that).
The second set has the 4-8 on a standard biner. This is my backup set so I don't put it on a wirelock to save money for now. I find I use the small to mid sized nuts most so I having doubles is nice. The bigger stuff can be duplicated with small cams or tricams places passively (pinks and reds).
Wirelocks (NOTCHLESS) are great but be careful, when I first started using them I dropped half a set of nuts because they all just slid off. Hasn't happened since but be careful at first.
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kevlar
May 4, 2003, 5:42 AM
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My wife does it for me... :D
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tori
May 4, 2003, 7:04 AM
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i rack by dividing into three size ranges on three old oval biners. what i do that is interesting is, on these biners i have cut off the tip of the notch on the opening so there is no chance of a wire catching. of course these three biners are heavily marked and will never be used for anything except racking, though they would still be 8kn. as far droping them i just get as stable as i can before messing around with any gear, if the only placement is in the middle of hell move i guess i would back down and get the piece ready to go before moving back up. i did not divide up into two seperate sets because if i see a spot that i guess will need say, an eight, i don't want to then have to think about which set still has an eight, i just grab the mid size range and the remaining eight and his friends will all be there. usually i can guess the right range out of the three seperate biners. even with more nuts if you divide into more than 3 biner size ranges you will have a smaller range on each biner and so a bigger chance that you will not guess close enough to the size you need. rain sucks, i need to get out.
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chillyweather
May 4, 2003, 9:23 PM
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Thanks everybody for the advice. By the way, I don't carry all the nuts on every climb (I've only led about 3 times now...), but I just have them on 3 biners by size range, that way I can grab the range I'll think I need before leading. I liked the idea of taking the notches off of old biners just for racking, I might have to try that!
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kevlar
May 5, 2003, 12:19 AM
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DO NOT REMOVE THE NOTCH FROM OLD BINER,s...
invest in some Petzl.s or I believe BD also makes some biners with no notch...they have a unique design and they are fully rated biner,s...
they are pricey...but you only need a handfull...I suggest never altering ones gear to make it less durable...it may be the biner you rope into sometime on a climb...or you may have a friend use your rack???
cheers
John
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pico23
May 5, 2003, 4:38 AM
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In reply to: I liked the idea of taking the notches off of old biners just for racking, I might have to try that!
It's both a good and bad idea. The plus is clear, the negative is that the biner is dead weight. Just get some wirelocks or key locks. That way you don't have anything non functional on your rack. 8Kn is plenty to lower off of but not much else. Basically you have an open gate when it is weighted. Overall the idea intrigues me. I just don't like losing the functionality of my gear.
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bighigaz
May 5, 2003, 6:59 AM
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I think the way you rack your nuts is your own preference... but I can tell you that under your leg loop is no good!! :? :shock: Sorry, I couldn't resist...
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tori
May 6, 2003, 1:34 AM
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Registered: Feb 23, 2003
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In reply to: DO NOT REMOVE THE NOTCH FROM OLD BINER,s... invest in some Petzl.s or I believe BD also makes some biners with no notch...they have a unique design and they are fully rated biner,s... they are pricey...but you only need a handfull...I suggest never altering ones gear to make it less durable...it may be the biner you rope into sometime on a climb...or you may have a friend use your rack??? cheers John
these are very old bd ovals that i picked up for $1 or found, i would not have used them anyway. they are clearly marked with tape and paint unlike anything else on my rack. i like the keylock idea, but have never seen an oval keylock, and i want the oval shape to hold 6-8 nuts. my partners are well aware of these 3 marked biners. each one is actually painted a different color and the nuts that belong on each are taped with a matching color. red for the small nuts on the red biner, white mid size, and blue for the bigs. it works, and i won't use the biner for anything else. if anyone else does this, MARK THE BINER big time.
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pico23
May 6, 2003, 2:00 AM
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Tori,
Petzl does make keylock ovals. I think they might only be lockers though. They were made for use with a pulley or for aider/daisy attachment.
I use DMM Wirelock wires. which have a huge basket on one end and a smaller one on the other. you could rack way more then 6 nuts on one I think I have about 5 and 6 on each but thats a full set. When I get some expendable cash I am going to rack all my passive pro on them. Nuts and tricams come off nicely but at $9 a biner they are kind of pricey if you have other needs.
The thing I like about the DMM is they are light. Petzl keylocks don't seem to be that light and when using them just to rack you know it isn't something you are going to leave behind.
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estwing
May 6, 2003, 4:58 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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Kong makes keylock ovals, infact they own the patent on the keylock idea, and petzl pays them to use it.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10536&highlight=kong+keylock+oval
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16591&highlight=kong+keylock+oval
These links talk about similar issues.
Have a good day,
Sam
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pico23
May 6, 2003, 6:48 PM
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True true my friend. I always forget about Kong till someone brings them up. I believe there keylocks are light and cheap as well. Maybe thats why petzl charges so much for them. Thanks for the info.
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