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wallrat
May 5, 2003, 3:05 AM
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Registered: Nov 28, 2002
Posts: 155
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Hi, we're looking at maybe doing the Cassin, and I'd love to hear from anyone who's done it. Rack info, conditions, ledges, etc. Thanks, Gene.
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emelia
May 7, 2003, 8:10 PM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2003
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Been blown off twice and made it once. I hear The Valley of Death is living up to its name this year because of warm weather conditions.
Go real light, be in good shape. Acclimatize, acclimatize, acclimatize. Done it with 7-8 cams up to #3, 7 or so nuts and 6 or so screws. Took pins and never used them....just extra weight. Bivvy's are pretty obvious. Couple of the ledges are small, especially the one just below the Japanese Couloir, but it's just been two of us, so we had no probs.
If you want details, PM me. Get a permit NOW for next year...unless you already have one for this year....in that case GET GOING!
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leec
May 13, 2003, 7:24 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2001
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I've a nice hand written topo - PM me if you want a copy.
Light is good - fit is better.
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brutusofwyde
May 13, 2003, 8:01 PM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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Usually an excellent, sheltered camp in the Valley of Death, right near the base of the lower West Rib. After acclimatization, that's a good place to blast from if/when when the weather turns righteous.
Regarding going ultra light, sometimes it is so cold that the screws can't be cleared of ice until the end of the day, over the stove. If this is the case, it's real nice to have up to 12 screws. Lets you move a bit faster.
Hope this helps.
Brutus the Piker
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