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lemur
Apr 15, 2003, 8:34 PM
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Okay, after spending a ton of time top-roping, I finally got into lead. Totally dig it, and want to get the necessary items... I'll also state that I was an avid indoor-climber who just started outdoors.. So I have *nothing* except for a harness, shoes, and a kick-butt chalkbag.
So, I figure I need:
- A rope... (no idea how long or what size)
- Quickdraws (no idea of how many, or what shape/quality)
- Webbing (how much to make sure that you won't hit one of those awkward situations where you might come up short.)
- Extra beaners, etc...
Any help would be great. I don't exactly trust the salespeople at the local stores without having an outside opinion first.
Help get me lead-climbing please! *smile*
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ubotch
Apr 15, 2003, 9:05 PM
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Okay, I'll try to help but I'm sure other people will have different suggestions. It sounds like you are talking about leading sport routes so I will give advice based on that assumption.
Rope: I would say 60 meters but a 50 meter would do it on a lot of sport routes. I think 10.5 would be a good width but you could go skinnier.
Quickdraws: 10 should be enough to get you started. I like Black Diamond with a wire gate on the rope end and positron on the bolt end.
Webbing: Don't know
Extra Beaners: Probably not many for sport, just a couple of lockers
Hope that helps
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baldguy
Apr 15, 2003, 9:14 PM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10467
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14942
i think between those two, you should have a good idea. also, if you want hard reference, there's a book called Climbing: From Gym to Crag which details not only usual equipment needed, but situations that help the transition from gym to real rock. buy Freedom of the Hills too, as it's the bible....
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vegastradguy
Apr 15, 2003, 10:12 PM
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1- belay device and locker (ATC is fine, but whatever you are used to using is good. make sure you are familiar with rappelling, as you will need that skill at the crag)
1- 10.5mm 60m rope. You will thank yourself later for getting the 60m. Dry and Bi-color are optional, but if you're just sport climbing, they arent necessary and they are definitely expensive options.
10- quickdraws. if you got the dough, pick up prefabs with keylocks (BD positron or Petzl Spirits) and/or wiregates (Omega JC, BD, etc...) go with what you like. Mix up the lengths if you can.
2- 10' sections of 1" webbing. preferably natural colors in case you have to leave it.
also grab a couple of lockers (Petzl Attache is good, or any pear shaped locker) and a couple of ovals (for cheap leaver biners) in case you gotta leave gear to get off the climb. better a $5 oval than a $17 draw.
and get Freedom of the Hills. read it, live it, love it.
also get a bela
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ptone
Apr 16, 2003, 3:46 PM
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I like what people have said here
Here's my bit to fill in gaps:
I'd stick with a 10.5 rope, 60m
(even though you're leading, you'll want to tr some, friends who can't lead, harder tries etc. 10.5 will last--and cause of that, 60m, as many new climbs are set longer)
I'd also get an ATC or reverso and a locking biner just for it.
(These are about the most versatile belay devices, no matter what you climb or for how long)
A couple 120cm slings, and a couple 3-4m lengths of 1" webbing, and a 80-120cm daisychain and 4-5 locking biners.(you want to be ready to equalize anchors, lengthen them to protect your rope, lock yourself in to clean your gear and rap off , build anchors for tr, always good this stuff)
Just a thought before i mention At least ten draws (your pref vs cost--ask around about feel) --Remember belaying lead is a different world than belaying top rope. I don't recommend just having anyone belay you as you start out. Most experienced climbers will have draws, if you offer to use your rope and anchors, usually they'll be happy to bring the draws. You may not need to put out for draws right away!
(Lots of routes may be a bit shorter, but at avg 2m per bolt, 10 will cover 20m right? edit--expect the bolts to be alot further apart than in the gym tho...)
And extra stuff-
As was said before, rap rings slung on a cordalette or ovals are a cheaper way to bail. A bag w/tarp for your rope (crag bases are usually dirt/sand and forest floor, a tarp helps, tho your rope still ends up spread usually!) extra biners to sort your stuff on, cheap d's or ovals.
As you climb more, you'll get to know your areas. You may eventually want to add some trad gear, if only to build better anchors or protect run out places on old sport routes.
I've probably forgotten the most important stuff...
Get lots of opinions! Best way to learn is to climb with people who already know!
Have Fun!
-p
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overlord
May 18, 2003, 10:16 AM
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rope: 10.5mm at leas 60m, but i would buy 70m if i were you.
draws: at least 10, 15 better.
webbing: 2 pieces of about 4 feet each for anchors and stuff.
biners and co: 2 lockers and a belay device. i reccomend petzl TRE. its similar to grigri (though doesnt look like it) but compatible with thinner ropes and double/half ropes as well and has some too-fas-lowering protection gadget.
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badphish
May 26, 2003, 11:37 PM
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you can also get a stickclip, I personally don't use one, but some people believe that its safer, also webbing, extra biners (locking ones,too) you will all need for anchors at many places.
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beckerw
May 27, 2003, 2:16 AM
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get a rope: 60m, unless you never plan on traveling and your crag is only 15m high
quickdraws: agian, unless your crag is only 15m, buy a min of 12. i personally would get 2 "long draws" and the rest as shorty's (though not the 4" petzl" i think shorter draws are more managable clipping but the long ones can be nice at anchors or over lips. i do like petzl draws, but you need a trust fund to afford them. i personally like the hotwires for the rope end and spirits(?) for the bolt
you shouldn't need webbing unless you are multipitching or leading trad. but then you need a whole mess of other stuff.
for convenience get a rope bag as well, stick clips are nice in some areas but not necessary
have fun!
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hugepedro
May 27, 2003, 2:50 AM
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What you need most is a good friend who already has all the gear and who is willing to mentor you into leading. That way you can learn more about gear before you start spending money.
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jimdavis
Jun 2, 2003, 1:58 AM
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I'd carry a few slings too. You can do most self/ partner rescue with a few biners and slings. I always carry 2 single lengths slings and a double length sling for "just in case."
I'd say Dry ropes are a waste unless your planning on doing multipitch in the rain or Ice climbing. And bi-color ropes are WAY expensive. I'd just say get a Bluewater rope marker and put a nice black ring around the middle of your rope.
60m are awesome though, you can usually get by with a 50m but not always. I remember having to set up and extra rappel anchor last time to get to the ground. Which wouldn't have been a big deal had i not been late for a date :) 60m's are just worth the few extra bucks and piece of mind to me.
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robfromport
Jun 12, 2003, 5:41 AM
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For my first sport lead, I wish I would have brought a change of underpants. :?
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overlord
Jun 12, 2003, 6:27 AM
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In reply to: For my first sport lead, I wish I would have brought a change of underpants. :?
or some diapers. :P
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reno
Jun 12, 2003, 7:40 AM
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In reply to: What you need most is a good friend who already has all the gear and who is willing to mentor you into leading. That way you can learn more about gear before you start spending money.
I think this is the best reply yet...
Beyond that, it pays off in the long term to find a local climbing shop where you can get to know the staff. You really need to build trust in these folks... True, they are there to make money (anyone who goes into business and says he/she is not looking to make money is a liar,) but they also want your repeat business. Hence, they're going to do their best to meet your needs. If one of those needs is advice, then so be it.
Good luck, and don't forget to double check everything.
Jeff B
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iburpalot
Jun 12, 2003, 8:16 AM
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For single pitch:
60 m. (200 ft.) 10.5 mm. rope
Rope bag or tarp
12 quick draws
(Once in a blue moon, 10 isn't enough for the route and extra quick draws always come in handy: clipping the lunch bag to a branch, clipping gear together, less trading of gear between climbs, etc.)
I also have a screw link on my rack.
http://www.petzl.com/petzl/publicFamille?id=AMAR#GO n 7
Having this cheap, dedicated bail biner gives me more confidence to try routes at and beyond my limit :-)
For multi pitch sport, additionally:
60 cm. sling + locking biner each to sit at belay point.
Both climbers should bring their own atc or 8 for rappel (duh)
Short prusik rope + biner each to act as emergency brake during rappel
And if the belay points are not connected by a chain: 2 x 120 cm sling + 4 locking biners to connect the rings at 2 consecutive belay points
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weaselman
Jun 12, 2003, 1:41 PM
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yeah, there's a really good techtip in the latest Climbing that details how to bail. It recommends buying some cheap screwlinks from a hardware store for leaver biners.
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missedyno
Jun 13, 2003, 12:40 AM
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this is so cute. one of my first posts on rc.com was advice for my first pieces of gear. little newbie me called it her "sport rack" and was teased.
i agree with ptones post completely. do what he wrote, and i don't have to retype it all. remember that belaying is important too. be sure to find a belayer who knows what they're doing
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lemur
Jun 13, 2003, 4:06 PM
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Thanks for all of your help! I just picked up some hotwire's and lead my first (albeit indoor) routes last night!
Absolutely *crazy*!!! It was so much fun, it really put the fun back in indoor-climbing. Now I just have to track down some sport routes in the DC/VA area.. (so far, I haven't seen many at any of the places i've been... i.e. carterrock, great falls, or annapolis rocks.. but I haven't exactly been looking very hard.)
I'm totally hooked! Can't wait to do it again!!! We started with 5.6 - hardly even noticed a difference. 5.7 - nothing too crazy, but noticed it took me a lot longer to climb, as I had to hang on while I clipped in. 5.8 - *so much fun!!* easy route, but suddenly I'm trying to clip in on a tough hold with a weak foothold.. Suddenly, the slight fear of bailing kicks in! (No drops yet, but given my enthusiasm, I'm sure it will happen sooner rather than later!)
Considering I have the 5.9's and 10's pretty much down to a science at my local gym, this made the whole wall a whole new experience!
I just have to learn to belay better... It took a little getting used to, and it's not quite second-nature yet.
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hoppinbig
Jun 13, 2003, 4:52 PM
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One additional thing thing that no one has mentioned - which are of vital importance - get 2 locking draws: my setup is 2, 25cm Petzl slings with 4 BD pear shaped lockers. These will be used to clip into the anchors at the top of climbs (most new routes have shunts but older ones don't) These lockers will also serve as top rope anchors for anyone who doesn't want to lead the route you just did.
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orangekyak
Jun 20, 2003, 12:22 PM
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Kev, nobody mentioned it cuz nobody else does that ... you spend 20 minutes taking high-energy falls onto a $15 draw with standard non-locking gates, then reach the top only to clip into a $70 double locker scenario for a less-than-body weight (friction everywhere) lower-off?
I love climbing with you but this is by far the strangest import you bring on your trips to the US.
:lol:
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troutboy
Jun 20, 2003, 1:47 PM
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In reply to: Kev, nobody mentioned it cuz nobody else does that ...
Maybe nobody you know does it, but if I'm going to TR the route after it's led, I'll use lockers at the rope end of my 2 slings. So will a lot of people.
For a number of reasons.
I must say I don't bother with lockers at the bolt end of the setup, and using 2 non-lockers at the rope end is not inherently unsafe, but if you just use 2 (standard = stiff) draws it is difficult to get the two rope end biners opposite and opposed. Two unopposed bent gate biners to TR through would not be my idea of a bomber setup.
TS
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jetman_jake
Jun 24, 2003, 2:23 AM
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I'd definately agree with the bail biner or screwlock. We got rained off the crag last weekend and had to lower since my buddy was halfway up his nemisis route. Everything got slick crazy fast and there was no way to finish it. We left one shiny biner for the next climber to booty.
I'm just getting into lead as well, just ordered a set of Faders. I've got a 10.5 rope, and last weekend I was happy it was dry treated. Carry a few slings for roofs and such and you should be set.
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