|
|
|
|
trialsnclimbing
May 30, 2003, 6:11 PM
Post #1 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2003
Posts: 33
|
I have just realized that I need a sport that will allow me to push my limits. Having a fear of heights, I immediately decided that climbing should do the trick.
Basically, I need to know what I need to buy... so far I've only climbed a couple times... all outdoors... and I've been on a TR. I've used my friend's equipment.
I have shopped all around and have no clue what to buy... there are tons of options.. I want to buy equipment that will not just hold me at a beginner level, but will last and will serve me well... I keep seeing packages on sites for equipment... but they all say the equipment is meant for beginners... I want stuff that is made for climbing, not made just for beginners...
does anyone have suggestions as to brands for a harness, beaners, figure eight or ATC, rope with length, size and so on. I was told I need static rope if TR or dynamic if lead climbing... I guess I'll be doing TR for the time being... Also... does it make a difference the type of chalk bag and chalk? How important are shoes for starting out? Anything else I might need.... do I need to buy more beaners right away?
Basically... I have no clue... but wow... climbing is enough of a rush, I know I want to do it and want to do it right.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
climber49er
May 30, 2003, 6:33 PM
Post #2 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
|
There are a lot of good combo packages out there that will take you past beginner. At minimum you need shoes, a harness, chalk & bag, belay device, a few locking biners, about 6 regular biners, a rope, a couple runners and a bunch of webbing or cordalette material.
My 2 bits:
Shoes - You won't really know what you need until about the time your first pair wears throught the rubber so a good snug fitting all around shoe will probably do for you. 5.10 Spires are a good first shoe. If you wear em out you will probably be to the point where you will need/want more than one pair anyhow.
Harness - light and comfortable works, make shure its big enough to properly double back the waist belt with a good tail left over. (4-6 inches)
REI has a nice Harness, chalkbag, ATC, Locking biner package that will work great.
Chalk Bag - big enough to get your whole hand in, mine isn't.. :evil:
look for a drawstring to keep it from spilling in your car... :D
Chalk - anything. Ball if you gym climb, powder if your go outside.
Belay device - An ATC is a solid, easy to use device. Don't worry about the fancy gadgets. The ATC XP (XT)? looks interesting but I haven't tried it.
Rope - Don't waste your money on a static rope, personally I won't Top Rope on one. You can get hurt pretty bad from even a small fall on one and it just transfers more force to your anchor and harness. A 50 or 60 meter non-dry dynamic in the 10.5 -11 mm size range is good. 60 meters is pretty dang long and heavier but the extra length is nice since it means that you can do longer routes.
Runners, Webbing, more biners - Used for setting up TR anchors. Just talk to someone knowledgable in your area to get an idea of how much you will need for the climbs you plan to do. Ex. In my area, the anchors tend to be pretty far from the top of the cliff (trees and such) so I carry a lot of webbing.
Have fun, good luck, hope this helps
|
|
|
|
|
watersprite
May 30, 2003, 6:50 PM
Post #3 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 1601
|
you might want a couple locking biners - need to use when rigging yourself to the anchors for rappelling... ditto a daisy chain.
also handy - coupla quickdraws couldn't hurt. a helmet if you're going to Yosemite.
i met a guy there who had a rock the size of a toaster hit his head and broke his scapula... - who would have been toast if not for the brain bucket.
when can I buy a screamer?? :o
|
|
|
|
|
gthornberg
May 30, 2003, 6:56 PM
Post #4 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2003
Posts: 106
|
I began climbing 20 years ago with a rope, a harness, two carabiners, five 20-foot-webbing slings and my bare feet (didn’t have money for climbing shoes).
I disagree that a static rope is dangerous for top-roping. I had a static rope (a Chounard rope?) for my first year and fell a lot on it. Indoor gyms use static ropes for top-roping all the time and no one gets hurt from them.
Nevertheless, you should still buy a lead rope for your first rope because eventually you will want to learn to lead with it. Shoes are very helpful, but can wait if you don’t have the money. When you’re ready to advance in climbing, you can’t without the proper shoes so eventually you’re going to need them. My minimum starter kit would be
1 Petzl or Black Diamond Harness
1 11mm rope
4 carabiners
1 locking carabiner
5 20-foot long webbing slings
1 set of stoppers (size 3 through 12)
3-4 larger hexes
|
|
|
|
|
watersprite
May 30, 2003, 7:00 PM
Post #5 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 1601
|
oh, bad!!!! static ropes are bad! and people do get hurt in the gym. they get hurt bouldering - paramedics were there one day - someone fell bouldering and tweaked his ankle.
Please don't spray the bad info, and....
|
|
|
|
|
watersprite
May 30, 2003, 7:02 PM
Post #6 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 1601
|
he's not ready for nuts and chocks, and that rope is too big. I'm getting a 9 mm dry dynamic rope, and I won't even worry about nuts and cams etc. until a year after I start leading, if then.
geez, I am glad I found people to climb with who have gear. I bring the bagels and beer.
|
|
|
|
|
watersprite
May 30, 2003, 7:05 PM
Post #7 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 1601
|
get some "circus" rope at OSH and a book on knots and practice tying them until you can do all of them blindfold.
Buy "wicking" action shirts and some nice pants, trail shoes, sunglasses etc. There is a lot to gear besides biners and rope.
get a chinning bar or a couple of holds to bolt on your wall and hang from them...
go to the beach at low tide and boulder barefoot. Go to your local cliff and talk to people. or listen, that's even better... don't be in a hurry - stay safe, and god bless.
|
|
|
|
|
weaselman
Jun 1, 2003, 1:21 PM
Post #8 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2003
Posts: 294
|
thats wrong a beginner should NOT buy trad pro.
|
|
|
|
|
ptone
Jun 1, 2003, 2:49 PM
Post #9 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 5, 2003
Posts: 350
|
to gansscr:
Oh man, you know my climbing changed drastically when I got those new shoes! And they are like so much cheaper on ebay dude! Like dude, like thanks for the tip dude!!
And pro--I'd say, like Camalots and TechFriends, full set of each, and a full set of Aliens, they're so much quicker to place than nuts. And a battery Hammer Drill and some Bolts, in case you get stuck on a face and really need to clip (get a light drill dude, they are hard enough to manage with one hand...) And a 40 foot Aluminum Ladder (they are the sht for clipping that first bolt for saftey, in fact, sometimes they'll get you right up a shorter climb) My friend (he's got a better job than, well, I don't work but) just got a Cherry Picker. Some people get pissed when he drives into remote crags, something about him killing the moss and trees, but WTF, its not like it's the only friggin moss there you know!
Oh (but only after you've a bit more experience) a Helicopter with a Pilot and 1500 feet of static line should get you close to most walls. Just don't jump on static rope--it'll hurt!
But seriously-
Those packages are the sht for you!
Don't be put off by the beginner thing, its just a package. The reason more advanced climbers don't often buy those, is cause gear wears at different rates, and you don't need to replace everything at the same time.
The equipment is the same as you'll buy, but for almost half the price.
It will not hold you back.
Don't let ego get in the way of your climbing!!!
Shoes and a chalkbag, harness and belay device. If you are going to get a rope, I'd go with 10.5mm, they suffer the abuse of becoming familiar with rope and wear of top roping better than thinner ropes. a few locking biners, and some long slings.
Anything else, trade off. Climb with as many experienced climbers as you can, you'll find out what you need, and you might just learn to climb.
-p
|
|
|
|
|
troutboy
Jun 1, 2003, 4:05 PM
Post #10 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2003
Posts: 903
|
Beware of advice you get on the net. You have one person who seems to think the scapula is in the head (perhaps its just bad sentence construction ?) and has never led one route telling you what to buy, and another who has been climbing all of 7 months and is telling you what a beginner should not do.
Here's what I think you might need to start:
Rope: Despite what some have said, there is nothing wrong with using a static rope to TR, when used correctly. That being said, I would not recommend you buy one. Should you or anyone you are climbing with desire to lead, you will need a dynamic rope. I would recommend something in the 10.5 to 11 mm range (as stated by an earlier post). Because you are a beginnner and will be TRing, you will want a rope with more "wearability", thus the larger diameter. I would skip the dry treatment. It has advantages, but you will not miss them. There are numerous places that sell ropes cheaply (see below).
Harness: Brand does not matter. Get something you can comfortably hang in for a reasonable time (test it at the store by hanging in in for 15-20 minutes). Do not get a lightweight "sport-climbing" harness. Get something with multiple gear loops so you can use it later when you begin leading or following.
Chalk Bag: Bah, humbug. Do without. The cliffs will appreciate it.
Shoes: Again, brand does not matter. Get something that is comfortable and fits your feet well. Ignore sales people and climbers who will tell you to buy shoes "several sizes smaller" or that climbing shoes must be "very tight". Shoes are always on sale on the net, but you should really try them on and buy them in person from a knowlegable person. If the salesperson says "buy them really tight", walk out and find another store. I would uy shoes before I bought a rope if money was a concern.
You will quickly wear out your first pair of shoes because your footwork will suck. Expect this.
Carabiners: One or perhaps 2 lockers.
Belay/Rap Device: ATC or equal. Cheap and effective. Learn to use it properly.
Webbing: Perhaps. It really depends on whether you need to set up TRs, or you just wish to not be dependent on others equipment when climbing with them. If the latter is true, you may not yet need a rope either.
I would not begin buying a rack until you climbed more and started to interact with other climbers, follow climbs, see the gear in use, etc....
Cheap mail order places include Sierra Trading Post, Mountain Gear, REI, and many others. Find the Bargain Bin or Sale Area.
If you do not have a person you can trust to help you along, consider taking a class. You can see equipment in action and get good advice on many things.
Of course all this is my opinion. Choose to follow it or not.
TS (who was climbing in Red River Gorge before the first bolt was installed).
|
|
|
|
|
watersprite
Jun 1, 2003, 5:14 PM
Post #11 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 1601
|
dood - the rock bounced off his helmet and hit his collarbone, breaking the scapula - which is NOT IN HIS HEAD. Like, I know that! I was trying to make a point that he would have died without the helmet, and that he ended up with only a broken collarbone.
sheesh@!!!! You have to be so careful.
"Beginners should n't buy pro?" I don't need to buy it!! and what's wrong with having a few nuts and chocks for setting TR anchors, or belay anchors, or practicing for when you do get to lead! also, nothing wrong with having extra biners, a few quickdraws, and a couple nifty rappel rings. Its no skin off your nose where I get my gear or what I want to do with it and who I climb with.
Climb safely, live long and prosper...
|
|
|
|
|
troutboy
Jun 2, 2003, 12:05 AM
Post #12 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2003
Posts: 903
|
In reply to: dood - the rock bounced off his helmet and hit his collarbone, breaking the scapula - which is NOT IN HIS HEAD. Like, I know that! I was trying to make a point that he would have died without the helmet, and that he ended up with only a broken collarbone. sheesh@!!!! You have to be so careful. Climb safely, live long and prosper...
OK, so it WAS bad sentence construction...but, the collarbone is not the scapula. One is dorsal (scapula), the other ventral (collarbone).
I think that's enough anatomy. Hey, all in a day's fun OK ?
I still don't think folks with little or no experience should be giving advice to beginners on what equipment to buy. That's not to say newer climbers can't or don't have valuable info, but be selective.
TS
|
|
|
|
|
watersprite
Jun 2, 2003, 7:34 PM
Post #13 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 1601
|
stories around the campfire are so random. He said he broke his shoulder, so I don't know which exact bone it was, but - the POINT was, he has a ding on his helmet, which ding would have been ON HIS HEAD.
do you know a marble going 350 mph can enter your skull? or something like that? anyway, I am all for helmets anytime you are near a big wall - lots of things get dropped.
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Jun 2, 2003, 7:58 PM
Post #14 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: Shoes: Again, brand does not matter. Get something that is comfortable and fits your feet well. Ignore sales people and climbers who will tell you to buy shoes "several sizes smaller" or that climbing shoes must be "very tight". Shoes are always on sale on the net, but you should really try them on and buy them in person from a knowlegable person. If the salesperson says "buy them really tight", walk out and find another store. I would uy shoes before I bought a rope if money was a concern.
Avoid "dead spots" where the sole extends beyond your foot, but avoid a painful fit with your first pair. Even if you later get shoes that fit with your toes curled, chances are you'll still need a comfortable pair for all-day use.
|
|
|
|
|
orangeman
Jun 3, 2003, 3:35 AM
Post #15 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 2, 2003
Posts: 2
|
Yup,
I'm about to head out and buy my first gear as well! I think that I will just start off with some shoes and chalk bag, and stick to bouldering on my own for now. Unless of course I go with someone who has gear and I can top rope. I think I am going to get the rest of the gear over time to keep some cash to enjoy summer. What is a good brand shoe for a beginner? I have climbed about 10 times in these blue/yellow laced shoes and they fit me well. Anyone know of any others I might like to try on when I go to REI? Thanks for the help.
|
|
|
|
|
psych
Jun 3, 2003, 5:16 AM
Post #16 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2002
Posts: 416
|
I would have to strongly agree with what Troutboy wrote. I've got three years under my belt, so not exactly a beginner anymore, but not a guru either. I disagree that chalk is not an important thing, but then again it could be my addiction to it that's causing me to say that...it doens't just look like cocaine, it's as addictive as it as well. ;-)
I must second the "don't buy trad gear yet" thing though...unless you've got someone experienced to show you exactly how to place it, what it can take and what it can't, etc, you're taking a risk. And by experienced, I mean take a course, something along that line. I've never bought any and never needed any, even if it would have been nice in a few cases...not because of any "I don't trad, so there!" thing, just because it's something that demands respect and must be learnt properly before trusting your life to it. I don't personally feel I'm ready for that, myself. :-)
Harness, shoes, ATC, chalkbag, chalk. If you really want to be sassy, buy two good and long quickdraws for setting up TR's on climbs where you can hike to the top and clip the anchors on. Around here, that's half the climbs...makes TR'ing very easy so long as you're not looking to do the beauty-fun 30meter climbs. Rarely do they end at the top of a hikable cliff...
But of course, take this with a grain of salt, what was good for me may not be for you. Take the advice of the experienced ones...
Mike...
|
|
|
|
|
aarona
Jun 11, 2003, 5:08 AM
Post #17 of 17
(2172 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2002
Posts: 16
|
I have been climbing 3 years now. The first thing I bought was a guide (not a guide book - a person). He led me up Whitehorse in NH and gave me and my son a great first climbing experience (outside the gym). The next year, we used the same guy for another day course, also up whitehorse, and he showed us how to set up a top rope. We did that for a year, then graduated to leading sport routes and, the following year, to another course, with the same guide, in trad and multipitch. This year my son and I bought a rack and did Whitehorse ourselves without the guide this time.
|
|
|
|
|
|
