|
rock-star
Deleted
Jun 16, 2003, 5:46 PM
Post #1 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
for the past couple of years i've climbed i never climbed in certified climbing shoes. it was always hiking boots. recently however i've decided to try 'em out. What's the opinion of climbing with shoes?
|
|
|
|
|
westside196
Jun 16, 2003, 6:13 PM
Post #2 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 4, 2002
Posts: 30
|
I've never climbed in hiking shoes before, but I wouldn't be able to do a lot of things I can if I was wearing my normal shoes. I normally wear pretty loose comfortable shoes, and if I try to climb in those I wouldn't be able to stand on any edge, because the sole of the shoe just bends and curves up to the side or front of my foot. I would be able to climb better barefoot. With my climbing shoes though, it makes it a lot easier to edge things because of the design of the shoe. Also with the grip of the shoe it makes it a lot easier to smear. I don't know anyone who doesn't climb in climbing shoes, unless they are just messing around and trying something out.
|
|
|
|
|
weedy
Jun 16, 2003, 6:18 PM
Post #3 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2003
Posts: 33
|
at the gunks we saw this old white guy and he was jammin wthout any shoes at all bro! I mean that mother was doing 5.7's and shizzit in his bare feet and he says it dont hurt once you get it on but it hurt me real bad when I tried to climb Fingerlocks. That shizzit was killin! He told me his name was Rod and he was pretty cool and we climbed together but i used shoes and he didn't.
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Jun 16, 2003, 6:20 PM
Post #4 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
I only wear sticky rubber on 5.10 and up. Seriously. Even leading up to 5.9 I feel that I don't need C4 or any other type of synthetic stickiness.
Good technique.
It took years, but it saves on shoe resoles.
|
|
|
|
|
tyify
Jun 16, 2003, 6:27 PM
Post #5 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 905
|
Makes an incredible diffrence climbing shoes do...They make the routes much easier and keep your feet from getting beat up..
|
|
|
|
|
fear
Jun 16, 2003, 6:36 PM
Post #6 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2003
Posts: 475
|
Oh comon..... Good Lord. Only need sticky rubber after 5.10.....
Well.... you might be "the man" but just about every human I've ever met requires, or sure wants, some kind of climbing shoe past 5.7+ or so on lead.
Depends on the route though. Edgy stuff with a good pair of solid mtneering boots is pretty neat.
-Fear
|
|
|
|
|
supe
Jun 16, 2003, 6:41 PM
Post #7 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 23, 2003
Posts: 50
|
My freind J.J. can lead 5.12. sport barefoot. Everybody comments on it so we nicknamed him "shoeless Joe Jackson"! If you have tough feet you can climb 5.10 barefoot easily enough, although once i get to anything with an 11 rating i usually pull out the mad rocks!
|
|
|
|
|
weedy
Jun 16, 2003, 6:43 PM
Post #8 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2003
Posts: 33
|
howe you climbing with no shoes on that hard stuff like Roddy?
|
|
|
|
|
scottcody
Jun 16, 2003, 6:45 PM
Post #9 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 27, 2003
Posts: 577
|
I've just glued C4 rubber on to my feet.
That's the only way to go.
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Jun 17, 2003, 2:23 PM
Post #10 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
Seriously, Don't doubt that at least some people can climb hard without modern climbing shoes.
Check out the Needles SD. Some now very old folks (two swedish brothers, and a man and his wife are some that I know of) put up extremely tough routes in TIGHT GUM RUBBER SOLED KEDS, with non-dynamic rope around their waist. I don't think they even had chalk.
Look at the old pics of John GIll-- what's that on his feet? Certainly not anything you'd call a climbing shoe by today's standards!
My favorite free soloing shoes are vibram soled trail shoes. they work great on certain climbs. TRy doing a few climbs without your sticky rubber climbing shoes-- you'll gain some respect for the old guys and the clcimbs they put up. IT's a fun game to try leading in approach or trail shoes until you can't get any farther, then change to your climbing shoes. I routinely struggle with moves in trail shoes that once I put on the sportivas I sail up.
Maybe the name of this thread should be, "run what brung you", HEHEHE.
|
|
|
|
|
bdawg
Jun 17, 2003, 2:59 PM
Post #11 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2003
Posts: 207
|
nice troll
|
|
|
|
|
caveman
Jun 17, 2003, 5:10 PM
Post #12 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 7, 2002
Posts: 127
|
well, heck if chris sharma can do v9 in el clogs... :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Jun 17, 2003, 6:46 PM
Post #13 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
I did a low-grade (5.4-5.6) slab climb in running shoes and edging and friction hurts like a MOTHER. I bet folks that use normal shoes or boots have ripped tootsies, though. Sticky rubber and hard edging soles for me please.
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Jun 17, 2003, 10:50 PM
Post #14 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
Running shoes are the worst. You'd do better in flip flops or bare foot. Try a trail shoe with a vibram sole and low tread.
|
|
|
|
|
mcfoley
Jun 17, 2003, 10:58 PM
Post #15 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 644
|
WEEDY,
I thought you were a poor ignorant from west Las Vegas...where did you get the cash to make it out to the gunks...
AND YOUR SPELLING AND GRAMMAR...WOW!!!
Big improvement from yesterday.
Maybe your TROLLING AGAIN...
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Jun 17, 2003, 11:11 PM
Post #16 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
Anybody who knows me knows how much I HATE climbing shoes!
klimbing shooz r the DEVIL!!!
heheheh
:twisted:
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Jun 17, 2003, 11:22 PM
Post #17 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
First, are you old enuogh that we can be seen in public together legally? Will your daddy shoot me for talking to you?
Second, Chalk is the devil's work.
Third, if you really hate climbing shoes, see if you can get a pair of ladies r2, a discontinued approach shoe from garmont. The R2 mens adn womens have other names too, the mens is arroyo, and I forget what the womens is called. They climb great, and you can wear em to the store! I ordered three pair cause the factory still had some a while back. They are pretty cheap since they are discontinued, but the shoe is wonderful for casual climbing, and even not so casual climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
joshy8200
Jul 16, 2003, 6:16 PM
Post #18 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 646
|
A buddy of mine didn't start using climbing shoes until after he won his first comp...when he won the shoes. But he still doesn't wear shoes very often.
At our gym he will come in and walk up the hardest route set in either flip flops, Lugz boots, tennis shoes...just whatever he walks in off the street.
I've seen him lead an edgey and smeary as hell 5.11d in tennis shoes. And I've watched him solo a 5.7 in thong flip-flops with a backpack of climbing gear on. He also climbed all day cruising the routes we did in some Totes slippers.
The reason for this...when he wears shoes to work projects and stuff, he says he wears them out too quickly. So I've started to try to use my shoes less on easy terrain...and it does increase your footwork ability. And makes your fingers get stronger quickly.
|
|
|
|
|
pico23
Jul 16, 2003, 8:29 PM
Post #19 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2003
Posts: 2378
|
In reply to: for the past couple of years i've climbed i never climbed in certified climbing shoes. it was always hiking boots. recently however i've decided to try 'em out. What's the opinion of climbing with shoes?
On top rope i've climbed up to 5.9 in Makalus with no falls. 5.8 in Asolo Ottomillas (plastic doubles). So much for Makalus being sh!tty climbing boots. bear in mind that a climb with lots of friction moves and smears would be tough in the makalus. Get on a edgy climb and a stiff mountaineering boot is often better then a rock shoe.
I've followed to 5.5 in Superflys (but they are waayyyyyy to wide on my foot as most shoes are so I don't like climbing in them above 5.3 faces).
And of course I've seen people lead 9's and nail V4's and above in Sportiva Boulders, hiking boots, and the like.
I'd say fit is key. even a sticky soled superfly (not that sticky) or a 5.tennie isn't gonna climb well if it doesn't fit you foot.
|
|
|
|
|
timstich
Jul 16, 2003, 9:11 PM
Post #20 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 6267
|
In reply to: I've just glued C4 rubber on to my feet. That's the only way to go.
Should you cut the rectangular rubber sheets into the shape of your foot?
Thanx!
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Jul 17, 2003, 12:00 AM
Post #21 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
In reply to: AND YOUR SPELLING AND GRAMMAR...WOW!!! Big improvement from yesterday. Maybe your TROLLING AGAIN...
Talk about the pot calling the kettle... :D
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerockfiend
Jul 17, 2003, 3:29 AM
Post #22 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 598
|
To beat a dead horse (sort of), I saw somebody working an old John Gill boulder traverse at Blacktail Butte yesterday. The feet are extremely polished from years of use. The man wore Mountain Masters (approach shoe/boot with stealth rubber) and used no chalk. He lapped it 3 times!
|
|
|
|
|
rhu
Jul 31, 2003, 4:32 PM
Post #23 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2003
Posts: 242
|
I once saw a guy leading a 9+ with logging boots. It was really impressive. His footwork was SO precise. :roll: I bet that he had really strong hands too. Bowling shoes work great also, lots of guys at the local crag use them. Those things that Doctors wear over their shoes in the OR work wonderfully as well over bare feet, or so I hear. Ha Ha Ha :twisted:
|
|
|
|
|
micahmcguire
Jul 31, 2003, 6:20 PM
Post #24 of 24
(4465 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2002
Posts: 889
|
they make the difference between night and day. if you were a good climber in hiking boots, you'll dominate in climbing shoes
|
|
|
|
|
|
