|
inked_climber
Jun 19, 2003, 7:50 PM
Post #1 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2003
Posts: 9
|
I'm relatively new at climbing and am finding that I have nowhere near the strength in my hands necessary for decent climbing. I built a campus board to help but find even this too hard to start with. Anyone have any tips to build my hand strength on a seriously low level? It's kind of embarrassing but I'm trying to work my way from the bottom.
|
|
|
|
|
westside196
Jun 19, 2003, 7:57 PM
Post #2 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 4, 2002
Posts: 30
|
I think right now for you if you just climb that will be the quickest way to get better. My grip strength improved lots when I started out. To where I would try a climb in the gym and I couldn't even hold on to the start and a week later I try it again and its easy.
|
|
|
|
|
auricpoe
Jun 19, 2003, 8:03 PM
Post #3 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 18
|
I got this thing called the dyna-flex, its a cool gyro ball. you can get them at any major sporting goods store. It helped with hand and forearm strength
www.dynaflex-intl.com
|
|
|
|
|
ontherocks
Jun 19, 2003, 8:08 PM
Post #4 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2001
Posts: 155
|
In reply to: I'm relatively new at climbing... I built a campus board...
Campus boards are a great way to get injured. Avoid them on the first two years, until you get stronger tendons. Just climbing is a good way to get stronger. Be patience.
I think that being too strong at the beginning slowed me down, and probably still does, because I could do things the hard way, instead of the efficient way. If you are weak, you'll learn how to move with no effort. And learning requires time and practice. And with practice you'd become stronger.
|
|
|
|
|
gthornberg
Jun 19, 2003, 8:38 PM
Post #5 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2003
Posts: 106
|
Until recently have used a ladder at a 30-45 degree slope 2 to 3 times per week. By climbing this with just my hands, I get to enjoy climbing at the same time building/maintaining general hand strength and upper-body strength.
Recently I created this Bachar Ladder:
http://www.4penny.net/greg/madclimbing
I'm working on a climbing wall against our backyard tree until I can get more time to hit the rocks in Georgia.
It's also fun for the kids!
GT
|
|
|
|
|
redpoint73
Jun 20, 2003, 12:58 PM
Post #6 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1717
|
Eric Hoerst only recommends campusing for climbers that can do at least 5.11. It is quite stressful on the tendons and joints. Anyway, campusing is only good for building finger strength if you use small rungs (1/2-inch?). Campus boards with large rungs are mainly for building shoulder/lock-off strength.
Youre best bet really is to climb. Hand strengthening devices don't work, because they only work one type of grip position. If you change the way your fingers are positioned even slightly (which you often do in climbing, because every hold is different), you are using your muscles, ligaments in different ways. Just try different types of holds on differently angled walls. Try to avoid lots of small crimps at first, as they can damage your finger tendons.
Many beginning climbers overgrip as they climb. This wastes fingers strength, and makes your fingers sore faster. Try to figure out the minimum amount of grip needed to hold on, and use your lower body as much as possible.
In reply to: Campus boards are a great way to get injured. Avoid them on the first two years, until you get stronger tendons.
Please don't give month/year dependent advice like this. Its rarely appropriate. Different climbers progress at vastly different rates than others. Use the advice I give above, its a much better gauge of whether you are strong enough to campus. Some people will never be ready to campus, no matter how many years they climb. On the other hand, one of my partners is climbing 5.12 after only one year, and he campuses like a fiend. Campus boards are a great way to get injured IF MISUSED. They are a great training tool if used properly.
|
|
|
|
|
ontherocks
Jun 20, 2003, 1:44 PM
Post #7 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2001
Posts: 155
|
In reply to: ...Please don't give month/year dependent advice like this. Its rarely appropriate. Different climbers progress at vastly different rates than others...
Makes sense. I think it's a good advice.
|
|
|
|
|
pinkamy
Jun 20, 2003, 2:20 PM
Post #8 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 10, 2003
Posts: 78
|
Try pushups. I tend to be strength inclined but lack tecquine and balance etc. So I don't know what to say. Most of my friends need help with strength too, and I think that the best things is to climb often and don't push yourself too much and get discouraged. If all you can do are 5.6s, do them and do them well and often to improve your stamina, that will help you be an all around stronger climber.
|
|
|
|
|
keinangst
Jun 20, 2003, 2:56 PM
Post #9 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
|
Easy traverses for long periods of time. Build that endurance, and take several days off between climbs for your first (insert time span here) 3-6 months. Once you notice less soreness in your hands and forearms, you can take shorter rests, but I wouldn't ever climb with less than 72 hours' rest between strenuous effort/strain.
|
|
|
|
|
redpoint73
Jun 20, 2003, 4:46 PM
Post #10 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1717
|
Pushups, or do you mean pullups???
Pushups strengthen your chest muscles, which you don't use in climbing too much. Unless you are doing overhanging stuff -- where they can help to help pull your body into the rock.
Emphasis should be on shoulders, triceps, and forearms.
Abs help for body tension, but that's probably later on for this person . . .
|
|
|
|
|
pinkamy
Jun 20, 2003, 7:07 PM
Post #11 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 10, 2003
Posts: 78
|
Redpoint73- You're right... pullups, not pushups.
|
|
|
|
|
inked_climber
Jun 21, 2003, 12:17 AM
Post #12 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2003
Posts: 9
|
Thanks everyone. Some helpful advice there. I appreciate the responses.
|
|
|
|
|
newbiereadsmore
Aug 9, 2005, 2:11 PM
Post #13 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2005
Posts: 6
|
maybe you should make yourself nervous the whole time and that way you can use your adrenaline
i climbed 18 1/2 walls at this rock climbing place just because i was nervous the whole time (my dad was belaying he learned only earlier that day he kept dropping me after i got to the top and then stopping me all of a sudden near the floor not fun)
if some one is belaying for you, tell them not to drop you fast. you could also have the rope really tight.
play guitar( it might help :?: )
i really don't know I'm still young enough to have that unlimited energy thing
don't smoke you'll have bad circulation it'll make you weaker
if you practice in the morning don't sleep on your arms or else you fingers will feel weak for a while because of poor circulation
|
|
|
|
|
newbiereadsmore
Aug 9, 2005, 2:27 PM
Post #14 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2005
Posts: 6
|
i really think playing guitar could actually help
you put you fingers in sometimes awkward positions
it might actually help
if you are grabbing on to one of those tiny crimp thingys it's like playing on a guitar with really hard strings
and you'll get calluses yeah!
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Aug 9, 2005, 3:00 PM
Post #15 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
stay away from all boards (that being campus, hang and system).
for now, just climbing is the best way to gain both strenght and techique. you can use specialized equipment later when (if) you really need it. such tools put way too much stress on your tendons for such excercises to he healthy. youd most likely just injure yourself.
|
|
|
|
|
chanf
Aug 9, 2005, 3:12 PM
Post #16 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 8, 2004
Posts: 75
|
the guitar thing might help...but only for working out one hand
|
|
|
|
|
islandclimber
Aug 9, 2005, 10:56 PM
Post #17 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2004
Posts: 94
|
I think that strength training is a waste of time when your new to climbing. The best thing for building strength for climbing is just to climb, lots and lots.
|
|
|
|
|
jv
Aug 10, 2005, 12:07 AM
Post #18 of 18
(3802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 363
|
Since you live in San Diego and seem uninclined to join a gym, go to the La Jolla wall across the street from the back of the La Jolla Museum of Art. It's a man-made cobble wall about 200 feet long. You'll see chalked holds all the way across.
To build endurance, start just a foot or so off the ground and traverse until you fall off. Step back on after a rest and keep going. Keep doing it until you can get all the way across without stepping off. When you can do that, try the higher route which sometimes takes you six or so feet off the ground. It's actually easier up there because the feet are more positive. When you can go one way without a rest, turn around and go back without a rest.
Eventually your technique will improve, you'll get the footwork and the no hands rests wired, and this won't tax your hands much. You'll be a much better climber though.
JV
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
