|
|
|
|
xanx
Jun 22, 2003, 9:27 PM
Post #1 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 1002
|
ok anyone know any really hot bouldering spots? i mean the places you HAVE to go for the best bouldeirng in the world? here are the places i have heard are the best:
Gunks, NY
Boone, NC
Carbondale, Ill. (AKA So Ill)
Bishop, Ca
Hueco Tanks, Tx
Fontainebleau, France
Sheffield, England (never seen any vids/pics of it, but have heard about it a lot)
Magic Wood, Austria (Bernd's secret spot)
Sissy Crag, Australia (not sure about the volume of stuff, but really really beautiful sandstone...)
Blue Ice, I-forget-where-the-hell-this-is.... (austria?)
Carinthia, Austria (again, not really sure about this, i just saw the videos of Klem Loskot's two new problems here - The Power of Goodbye is a nice 8b (v13), and Emotional Landscapes is, he says, 8c (v15)...)
Squamish, British Columbia
How about Little Cottenwood, Utah?
It seems just from my anecdotal evidence that Thailand is mainly good for sport and some nice deep water soloing, but there has to be some big bouldering area there somewhere...
I also know there are a few famous places in Japan, but i don't know the names of them.
Also, i know nothing about South American or African or Middle Eastern bouldering, except for "Black Eagle Sitdown", the 8c in South Africa by Fred Nicole. I'm sure there are some big bouldering areas somewhere there...
Probably more stuff in Canada, maybe in Russia?? It seems like i only cover a very small portion of the globe....
any remarks? additions?
thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
roninthorne
Jun 22, 2003, 9:35 PM
Post #2 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2002
Posts: 659
|
You got 'em... God (and/or John Sherman) knows, there's no bouldering in Virginia or West Virginia.. (barely smothered laughter)... nope, nothing to see here..... move along..
Quiet, you there, in the back!
|
|
|
|
|
styndall
Jun 22, 2003, 10:59 PM
Post #3 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 2741
|
Scrap those.
Horsepens.
|
|
|
|
|
redajax
Jun 23, 2003, 12:07 AM
Post #4 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 10, 2003
Posts: 4
|
Little Cottonwood, Utah should be ranked among the best. It is especially great for locals. It is literally ten minutes from town. Many of us boulder there before work in the mornings. There is a lot to do and you can find anything from the V0 to as hard as you want to go...
There is nothing like climbing granite, and for that, it would be ranked among the best.
|
|
|
|
|
badphish
Jun 23, 2003, 12:16 AM
Post #5 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 2, 2003
Posts: 207
|
rocktown is not to be missed!
|
|
|
|
|
loinclothman
Jun 23, 2003, 12:58 AM
Post #6 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2003
Posts: 29
|
I think that to be a bouldering mecca it requires that it only be a lot better than everything else nearby. There are tons of places in New Mexico that would be considered awesome spots if they weren't all so close to each other. maybe a dozen places as good as hueco tanks. Not that hueco's bad- it's as good as anything else out there, but there are lots of equally good places that aren't well known.
In Mississippi one rock makes a bouldering mecca.
|
|
|
|
|
reborne
Jun 23, 2003, 1:07 AM
Post #7 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 24, 2003
Posts: 190
|
so ill is pretty hot although perhaps not as extensive then there was that other recently uncovered spot they featured on climbx ide look it up but there is no more climbx there are a few on the east coast that might be about as good as the gunks that i dont feel its my place to mention .... But the one you tottally missed is Horse pence 40 alabama which tottaly ranks right up there
edit i shoulda read styndall pointed out hp40
|
|
|
|
|
styndall
Jun 23, 2003, 1:18 AM
Post #8 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2002
Posts: 2741
|
In reply to: so ill is pretty hot although perhaps not as extensive then there was that other recently uncovered spot they featured on climbx ide look it up but there is no more climbx there are a few on the east coast that might be about as good as the gunks that i dont feel its my place to mention .... But the one you tottally missed is Horse pence 40 alabama which tottaly ranks right up there edit i shoulda read styndall pointed out hp40
werd
If someone airlifted the mushroom boulder from hueco to hp, then hp would be without a doubt the world's best bouldering area. Now, I still think it's the best, but I can see room for doubts in there.
|
|
|
|
|
boulderpaul
Jun 23, 2003, 3:12 AM
Post #9 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 16, 2002
Posts: 108
|
magic forest, switzerland
cresciano, switzerland
yosemite, ca
j-tree, ca....
it goes on forever
|
|
|
|
|
xcel360
Jun 23, 2003, 3:20 AM
Post #10 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 20, 2002
Posts: 481
|
horsepens 40 in Alabama handsdown, and rocktown, GA
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jun 23, 2003, 3:44 AM
Post #11 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
CLearly you fellas have never heard of the ultra-secret ultra-classic Nut Tree boulders somewhere in NorCal.
:lol:
|
|
|
|
|
crux_clipper
Jun 23, 2003, 3:48 AM
Post #12 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2001
Posts: 531
|
Ahhh, trust me, Sissy crag is NOT the mecca of oz bouldering. It is not the mecca of NSW bouldering. It is the most contrived place to climb, ever! The guide book numbers the holds, and those are the only holds to be used. Plus many of the problems are "no heelhook" problems......
The mecca would have to be grampians in Victoria. 1000's of problems in the one general area, all on bomber quartzite sandstone
|
|
|
|
|
dmon
Jun 23, 2003, 11:27 AM
Post #13 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2002
Posts: 216
|
And just near the gramps - araps. Lesser known bouldering area, but has some absolutely classic bouldering, as well as awsome trad.
Crux, what are the gramps like for v3-5 climbers?
(and don't tell me you didn't have fun at Sissy!)
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
Jun 23, 2003, 12:00 PM
Post #14 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
While Nut Tree isn't a mecca by any stretch, it is definitely under rated, and yes I know you were going for tongue in cheek there Dave :lol:
However, Lost Rocks could be considered a "mecca' if for the serenity and beauty of both the location and rock. That place is pretty damn sweet and if your willing to walk the coast, its very easy to just loose yourself to the rock, the moves, and the rhythmic pounding of the waves....
|
|
|
|
|
flyinghatchet
Jun 23, 2003, 3:19 PM
Post #15 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2002
Posts: 742
|
This thread is a load of crap. Not one person has mentioned the infamous bouldering mecca of Potholes, Minnesota!
|
|
|
|
|
toonarmy
Jun 23, 2003, 4:04 PM
Post #16 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2003
Posts: 133
|
Rubidoux. Definitely a destination, you can even stay at the Mission Inn.
|
|
|
|
|
fieldmouse
Jun 23, 2003, 6:37 PM
Post #17 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 25, 2002
Posts: 404
|
ridgecrest, ca
|
|
|
|
|
jipstyle
Jun 24, 2003, 12:59 AM
Post #19 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 27, 2003
Posts: 482
|
Halifax, Nova Scotia.
PERFECT granite, seaside location, great beer. :)
|
|
|
|
|
keinangst
Jun 24, 2003, 1:22 AM
Post #20 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
|
So are we talking on an absolute scale, or a relative scale?
Relatively speaking, I like Moss Rock Preserve aka Shades Crest boulderfields in Birmingham. 10 minutes from my house, right in the middle of suburbia. Get up at 8:00, go work on any of 100+ problems, toprope a couple of 5.8/5.9 climbs, dip your feet in the creek, and you can be home by lunch. Doesn't cost a dime.
|
|
|
|
|
jhump
Jun 24, 2003, 1:31 AM
Post #21 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
|
Hinckley
|
|
|
|
|
criscokid
Jun 24, 2003, 2:28 AM
Post #22 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2003
Posts: 75
|
Price, utah never makes the lists but it should! there are four amazing bouldering areas within 30 mins of town and all are steller.
-Joe's valley (if you haven't heard of it....sheesh!)(just ask jerry moffit and ben moon about it)
-Triassic (new area with hundreds of classic problems and limitless potential) (plus tons of easier V0 to V3 problems for everyone let alone all the hard classics including a new possible V12/13)
-price boulders (shady)(almost like climbing at boone N.C. or Font. France)
-Huntington canyon (cool climbing on perfect boulders)
call the guys at mountainworks in provo for specific beta.
this is not to mention of course all the boulders all over the place that nobody has even looked at yet. so everybody come check out price!!!
|
|
|
|
|
sixter
Jun 24, 2003, 4:32 AM
Post #23 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2003
Posts: 262
|
:shock:
So many boulders, so little time!
I'd have to give a vote to Mt Woodson, oh so under rated.
|
|
|
|
|
mingthemerciless
Jun 24, 2003, 6:52 PM
Post #24 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 2, 2003
Posts: 18
|
Well, if you want an endless supply of boulders, you can't go wrong with Oak Flats (aka home of the Phoenix Bouldering Competition). If you want an endless supply of skin, this might not be the best place to come. Not much cool weather to be found right now either. Take the good with the bad I guess.
|
|
|
|
|
lox
Jun 24, 2003, 9:37 PM
Post #25 of 111
(10986 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 2, 2002
Posts: 2307
|
You people have SERIOUSLY MISGUIDED ideas about what a "bouldering mecca" is. Every one of your little local areas is NOT a bouldering mecca. Yeah, even price Utah.
Hell... due to quality issues, Biship might not even apply, even though it DOES see the traffic.
I'd say there are really less than 10 bouldering MECCAs across the globe.
In no particular order:
1. font
2. hueco
3. new zealand
4. rocklands, SA
5. hampi, india
6. squamish
7 (maybe). biship
8. putnam county
That's it, folks.
Visiting euros are NOT haning out at Oak Flats.
Maybe they go there to do the PBC, but they complain about how hot and sharp it is...
NOT A MECCa.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
