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sprtclimber
Jun 24, 2003, 7:02 AM
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
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I haven't been climbing very long, but I progressed quickly when I started. I figured it was do with the way I'm built and the fact that I grew up doing some amateur bouldering. But I have reached what seems like a brick wall. I don't feel stead progress anymore. I'm like redpionted at the 5.10. HOW AM I SUPPOSE TO GET PAST IT. I told by good climbers that I'm built for it, but I can't get better. What should I do.
I need some good advice on how you crossed the bridge. And I mean you 5.11 people.
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caughtinside
Jun 24, 2003, 7:45 AM
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Work on your footwork.
Climb with people who are better than you, and listen to them.
Be ferocious. Make sure your muscles fail and you fall before your mind makes you fall.
But mostly, work on your footwork.
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phreakdigital
Jun 24, 2003, 8:38 AM
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climb climb climb...work on all types of climbing...bouldering, sport, trad, aid...climbing with people better than you is key too...footwork is bigtime...and work on letting go of the fear on lead...you will struggle with that for a while, but just keep pushing yourself...make sure your safe...then just go for it hardcore as much as you can.
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duskerhu
Jun 24, 2003, 9:50 AM
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Think Technique! (of which, foot-work is a part)
Most of the time climbs rated beyond the 5.10 level involve a higher level of technique that you don't always use (or use together) on 5.10's and lower rated climbs.
Watch others climb 5.11's and 5.12's and talk to them about it. Get them to coach you through a certain route.
Prepare for very small holds! :lol:
duskerhu
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jughead
Jun 24, 2003, 10:08 AM
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I dont know yank grades but i think a 6a for me is a 5.10 for you in that case the same thing happened to me after 4-6 months of working on all of my technique i on-sighted a 6a+ then did the same for a 6B now I can do a 6b+ overhang (on lead) you will get better it just takes time
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sspssp
Jun 24, 2003, 3:21 PM
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One thing to realize is that mental limitations are usually a bigger deal than physical. You might think you are falling because you pump out and you just need more endurance. More likely, with better technique, you wouldn't have pumped out in the first place.
If you haven't already, read some of the excellent training books out there. Horst (sp?) has a couple of excellent books, Flash Training and How to Climb 5.12. Read these books and take to heart, that the most important thing you need to train is your mind.
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overlord
Jun 24, 2003, 4:21 PM
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work on techniqu, strenght will come in time
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xcel360
Jun 24, 2003, 4:21 PM
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As emphasized already, the biggest thing that'll get you over this plateau (which most people hit) is to keep climbing with emphasis on good technique. It is technique that'll get you to more difficult climbs, not really strength. Good footwork is also key to good technique. Watch some videos, and climb with people who are better than you and watch how they move. Also remember that if you want to do it physically you have to of already done it mentally
<=glen=>
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missedyno
Jun 25, 2003, 12:57 AM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2001
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watch your technique, listen to your body. better to rest and recover than to be a temporary hero and hurt yourself permanently
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philbox
Moderator
Jun 25, 2003, 2:07 AM
Post #10 of 23
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Jump on crazy hard sport climbs that are much harder than what you are climbing comfortably at the moment and work that sucker until you have it nailed. Get on some hard boulder problems and work that technique. Go to the gym and work your endurance and aerobics, in other words do as many climbs in a row without a rest.
Try to find a huge roof to climb pref at a gym, this will clear your head of any remaining exposure problems. Think always about human movement, you will be going for efficiency of movement this will economise your effort thus preserving some fuel in your tank for that hard crux move.
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sprtclimber
Jun 25, 2003, 2:33 AM
Post #11 of 23
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what are the best books for learning technique.
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shaggyj
Jun 25, 2003, 3:10 AM
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Plateaus are in your mind.......
My advice first bit of advice would first to climb outside as much as possible.
If this isn't possible then spend 3-4 night each week in the gym. Do laps (climb up then down climb) on routes a bit easier than your redpoint level. Do this with emphasis on good technique and footwork, until you come close to a pump. Then rest until recovery. Repeat for a few hours.....
Secondly spend time just watching stronger climbers climb. They usually have a few things in common: They are very relaxed, they conserve energy, they are very deliberate with their foot placements, they find "good" rests, and they study routes before they leave the ground.
Lastly don't dwell on trying to improve, if will just frustrate you. You'll improve once you lose the desire to get better. Spend some time with a old school hardman, it will help you realize how little you know and small we all really are.....
My 2 cents....
~j
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styndall
Jun 25, 2003, 4:01 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2002
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In reply to: what are the best books for learning technique.
Honestly, technique will help you. Sure.
But if you're not strong enough to stick the holds, no technique in the world will save you. Get some finger strength. Train on overhanging walls on SLOPERS. SLOPERS are critical, as they force an open-handed grip and generally train the muscles that pull on the middle and end joints of your fingers. The end joints need to be strong to openhand edges, and the middle-joint strength is crucial for that all important crimp strength.
Get strong, and technique and grace will follow. You'll hike your 10s and 11s totally casual. You'll have to pick up some khakis.
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jmarshall
Jun 27, 2003, 1:10 AM
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I too hit the 5.10 plateau. There were several things that helped me break on through to the other side:
1. Summer stinks. Most people look forward to summer climbing, but the friction is terrible. Make your climbing season fall through spring, and better conditions alone could get you to 5.11.
2. Get more out of each climbing day. After you feel like your spent at the end of the day, get on some easier stuff until you can't even climb 5.8. Add a couple more pitches to what you normally do in a day.
3. Diet. Get rid of the junk and eat more of the good stuff like chicken, tuna, spinach, etc.
4. Rest. I rarely climb three or more days in a row. I also try to get two days of rest before a weekend of climbing.
5. Technique. I watch a lot of climbing videos. I also watch the smooth, deliberate climbers at the crags and try to emulate them.
6. Power. Campusing builds power quickly, but make sure to warm-up for 20-45 minutes before a workout.
--Weekend Warrior
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stickclipper
Jun 27, 2003, 2:00 AM
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Climbing requires commitment to get better. So, if you're really psyched on getting more proficient at the sport, then you obviously already have one key ingredient: you have a love of climbing!
Climb whenever you can, wherever you can, be it bouldering, sport, or trad. Try to travel. Each climbing area has different kinds of rock (granite, basalt, quartzite, schist, sandstone...) and each has subtle nuances and trickery of its own. Try overhangs, vertical walls, slabs, cracks of all sizes. At least give it all a shot. It'll make you better. Don't get discouraged, because it just takes patience and practice to get good at each medium. Emphasis should always be on mileage, since the repertoire of moves that you will get from doing a bunch of moderate routes will be indispensable in your future climbs.
Then, if you're really passionate, you'll probably want to train. Most important thing (IMHO) is to have a partner who is as psyched about getting better as you are. Keep climbing all of the time. Pick out a couple of exercises to make you stronger and make sure you take them seriously and do them frequently.
Just keep climbing all of the time and the more you do, the better you'll become. Challenge yourself.
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ikefromla
Jul 4, 2003, 5:48 AM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
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my superdoopermegaultra beta for climbing hard: hang out with guys who climb 5.14.
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climbalon
Jul 4, 2003, 6:19 AM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
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Everything said was realy good, technique, footwork, rest. I think Eric Horst has a book, How to Climb 5.12. It's supposed to be a very very good book.
~Alon
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mattheww
Aug 21, 2003, 2:11 AM
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Jump on some stuff a grade or two harder than you can do right now(on toprope) and break the route down into sections. Work on one section at a time until you figure each one out and then try combining the sections until you eventually send the entire route. You can also improve your footwork by downclimbing after sending a route(do it on easier climbs). It will make you really focus on your foot placements.
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elrojobdugs
Aug 21, 2003, 3:00 AM
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Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 141
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footwork... but mainly harcore... when i started i was harcore - didnt think i could be touched - then i fell on a route at the red and was not as "hardcore..." now i get myself in the mood... i either say screw it and try (which works) or i listen to some music, which really helps (it can get u in the right state of mind... --> i think thats why most gyms play music
well atleast it helps me be more FEROCIOUS
-Dugs
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unabonger
Aug 21, 2003, 7:00 PM
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Posts: 2689
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Climbing "The Grade" (French 8a) is a worthy goal. It is all technique related. You WILL bag more quality ass once you master it, also.
Learn these techniques:
Heel hook
Toe hook
bicycle
gaston
Jawicky (named for the great Wyoming crackmaster, Bob "Jawicky" Viola)
crozler
layback
lieback (NOT the same as layback, consult expert for subtle differences)
front flag
reverse front flag
front reverse cross flag
reverse front back step
frontside twostep
dosidoroundyago
mantlespuck
two handed reacharound (protection required)
grosbac ring pinch
and finally,
Finish with a swirl, not a pinch (amateurish)
Can someone add my post to the FAQ? Thanks.
The percieved Unabonger
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deco
Aug 22, 2003, 4:13 AM
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Registered: Nov 30, 2002
Posts: 75
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Just climb whatever you feel like.
Also, try to get a health life..like a moderate diet, running, etc...
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ptone
Aug 22, 2003, 5:20 AM
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I was just getting past that same plateau (a new baby has stalled my time for a sec)--for a while it seemed like 5.10 was totally do-able every time. Maybe a couple tries to get sequence, then boom! but 5.11 was like so close, but so far away, even on tr I couldn't send a thing.
Here's what seemed to help me the most...besides climbing with some climbers who were much stronger, and just trying a bunch of their 5.12+ and 13+'s on tr (holy wow bat man--there were some sick moves, makes you really appreciate what those guys in the vids are actually doing!!)
-For strength:
Got a hangboard, it actually seems to help. I feel more confident locking off for a couple secs on smaller or more awkward holds now to hang the draw and clip.
-For technique:
Climbing slabs - (5.8-9 or so) with tennis balls or rocks in my hands (trick from an old slovakian). It feels crazy at first, but it's like a light swithched on when you get it. The moment you begin to trust your feet, everything changes!!!
Bouldering - Not slopers so much as dead-pointing, after 5.11 it's mostly overhung, and dynamic moves often bring weight down hard on unforgiving crimps and stuff. Deadpoint and you're there, no shock load on your fingertips...
But really, a couple people (maybe lots more) above had the answer.
Truth is, climbing is hard. For me the transition from 10 to 11 is a bit about faith, and just going for it--like trusting your feet on slab, once you make the move, prove to your brain that it was wrong with all that crap about how there was no way, the light goes on.
After that just gotta get stronger and stronger, and clean your technique into finesse...
Me, I don't care so much how hard the grade is, I just want to be able to move with a bit of that effortless smooth grace I see once in a while.
Flow up the climb, mmmm
peace,
-p
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karmaklimber
Aug 22, 2003, 5:23 AM
Post #23 of 23
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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In reply to: Jump on crazy hard sport climbs that are much harder than what you are climbing comfortably at the moment and work that sucker until you have it nailed. Get on some hard boulder problems and work that technique. Go to the gym and work your endurance and aerobics, in other words do as many climbs in a row without a rest.
Not sure about jumping on the crazy-hard sport climbs, but the rest I would agree with. Bouldering -definately- will get you through that plateau. When I hit the 5.10 plateau, I spent 2 months in the local bouldering gym, working out problems, doing some circuit training, laps on traverse problems, etc... and when I finally touched ropes again, 5.11's didnt seem as hard as before. I could actually send them. Just be careful when bouldering and be sure to give your body plenty of rests inbetween attempts and inbetween sessions.
To emulate the posts before, footwork is key. unabonger came correct when he listed the techniques you should learn, though I think he forgot dropknees. :wink: Learning to use a heel or toe hook correctly can definately help you out in spots where you might feel pumped and need to give your arms a rest. Also learning to flag your feet, learning where your center of balance lies and how to counter-balance your movements to control any swinging is crutial. My recommendation is to hop up on a few problems or routes lower than what you normall climb at, so a 5.8 a 5.9, and really concentrate on your footwork, learning to use the outer or edges of your foot and your big toe. For overhanging problems, concentrate on using your feet to pull yourself towards the wall and to keep body tension tight. There are also several other exercises that you can do like pacing your climb and before you grab the next handhold, pause for a 2 or 3 count before grabbing it, or climbing an easier route only using 2 feet and 1 hand, etc...
Breathing is also critical. Taking long, slow, deep breathes as you climb between moves, or every move, helps slow your heart rate down and will help keep your body relaxed. What I find useful is start with that long, slow, deep yoga breath before you start the climb so you can begin to focus mentally and calm your body down of any pre-climbing anxieties that might come with the great desire to send the route.
Lastly, practice reading, or looking over and studying your routes so you have an idea of what to do, which techniques you might use, etc... before you start to climb. Try to do atleast 3-4 reads:
1st read: Find out where the route ends (if visible; not always 100%applicable for some outdoor routes)
2nd read: Spot any handholds you can see and follow/go through the motion of grabbing them, identifying how you will grab them (crimping, pinching, etc..)
3rd read: The handholds will dictate your footplacement and body positions. Run through the problem once more, following with hand motions and body positioning & foot placement.
4th read: Try to see where the crux(es) and any rests are.
Hope it helps. Climb safe.
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