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Some Technical Questions from a new climber
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wing_cutter


Jul 2, 2003, 4:11 PM
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Some Technical Questions from a new climber
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Hello all,

This is my first post on this site and I just have to say Good Work to all the people behind the creation of this site. I have learned so much. So Thanks!

I have a few questions. After indoor climbing for a few months and being able to climb most 5.9 -10.a's I would like to take my climbing out-doors. There is a lot of info out in cyberland but I have not been able to find answers to the following questions.

1) What length of rope is good to start with considering outdoor climbing via Top-roping? (sorry trads!) Where would one go to find the best prices on ropes?

2) My girlfriend is my climbing partner and weighs considerably less than I do. Is there some sort of max. weight difference that should be considered or followed in the climber/belayer relationship? (especially considering we are fairly new to climbing)

Any help regarding this post will be much appreciated.

Thx!

Paul

:lol:


robmcc


Jul 2, 2003, 4:32 PM
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Re: Some Technical Questions from a new climber [In reply to]
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I'm going to defer to others on #1. 50m used to be the standard with some people advocating 55 or 60s. Seems like 60 is now the standard with some people advocating 70s. 11mm also used to be the standard, and now I don't see stores selling them. :)

As for #2, you shouldn't outweigh your belayer by more than 10 pounds. Buy your gf a box of jelly donuts a day until she's up to spec. That'll also go a long way to keeping her from outclimbing you.

Seriously, top roping is top roping, indoors or out, at least as far as who can belay who goes. If she can belay you inside, she can belay you outside. I've seen some pretty slim women belaying some pretty big guys at the gym (I'd bet at least 80 pound difference) and she didn't seem to be having any problems. Make sure she's anchored to something if she tends to get pulled up. My partner always anchors in. I have about 55 pounds on him.


markanite


Jul 2, 2003, 4:55 PM
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Re: Some Technical Questions from a new climber [In reply to]
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From a pure scientific view anyone should be able to belay anyone as long as one person is not more then double the weight of the other (because the anchor will take 1/2 the weight). Of course the fall will add force. This would only come into play on the biggest falls though (which wont happen during top roping). 10 pounds sounds way to sensitive to me ... gees ... most couples r at least 20 pounds different if not allot more. I weigh 175 and people in the 130s have belayed me without any problem. I wouldn’t advice though when you start climbs which would allow you to fall far enough to create allot of force (i.e. > 4-5 feet).

Im diffently not a pro though. This is just logic and a little experience.

/Mark


menotyou


Jul 2, 2003, 5:00 PM
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Re: Some Technical Questions from a new climber [In reply to]
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The rope length depends on the area you are climbing. With a 60m you can go just about anywhere. 10.2mm seems to be the standard these days. And you can find cheap ropes all over the net, but I recommend spending the extra few bucks to get a quality rope. You'll notice a huge difference in the way a nice rope handles as compared to a cheap rope. I highly recommend a Mammut.

As for the for belay, robmcc is right and you can find jelly donuts in bulk at Sams Club and Costco.


sharpie


Jul 2, 2003, 5:11 PM
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Re: Some Technical Questions from a new climber [In reply to]
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You can get a 10.5mmX60M Ocun dynamic rope for under $90 on the net...
http://ocunusa.com/more_Ocun/more_ocun.html

Also, check out the Ocun rope review on RC.com
http://www.rockclimbing.com/shopping/product.php?p=414


jt512


Jul 2, 2003, 5:17 PM
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Re: Some Technical Questions from a new climber [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I have a few questions. After indoor climbing for a few months and being able to climb most 5.9 -10.a's I would like to take my climbing out-doors. There is a lot of info out in cyberland but I have not been able to find answers to the following questions.

If by the above you mean that you plan to climb outdoors on your own, don't. Gym climbing and reading stuff on the Internet does not give you enough background to climb safely outdoors, even if you plan to "just" toprope. Outdoor climbing requires skills not applicable to the gym: you may have to lead the route to set up the toprope; you may have to build a multi-directional, equalized toprope anchor; you may have to clean the anchor; etc. Your first few trips outdoors should be made with an experienced, competent outdoor climber who can teach you the appropriate skills.

Also, it is practically impossible to learn basic outdoor climbing technical skills from the internet; the information is too scattered, and often conflicting. On the other hand, there are these paper thingies -- I forget what they are called, oh yeah -- books, that provide this information in a coherent and organized fashion. The best of these for a gym climber contemplating his first outdoor climb is, not surprising, entitled Climbing: From Gym to Crag by S. Peter Lewis. Another good one is How to Rockclimb: Toproping by the same author.

In summary, have fun outdoors, but be aware that, at present, you are not prepared to climb safely outdoors on your own. Read the books, then go outdoors with a competent outdoor climber.

-Jay


wing_cutter


Jul 2, 2003, 8:32 PM
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Re: Some Technical Questions from a new climber [In reply to]
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Thanks Guys for the help!

Jt.. I will make sure the first 3-5 times I go out will be with people who have experience and only then I wouldn't attempt anything but some easy top-roping. I am reading everything I can get my hands on as well. Thanks for the advice.


Wing


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