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kyhangdog
Jul 10, 2003, 12:49 PM
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I don't care how well-written or playful this article is, it is instructing climbers how to cheat: http://www.climbing.com/techtips/tttrad223/
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traddad
Jul 10, 2003, 1:34 PM
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When you cheat on a route; yanking on a draw, standing on a bolt, french free (is it Freedom Free now?), you ONLY cheat yourself. Who else is effected by you sending or flying? Yes, sponsorships and column inches in "Hot Flashes" may change, but ultimately, you are the arbiter.
Karma rocks
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nikegirl
Jul 10, 2003, 1:59 PM
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I hung on the draw of my lead last weekend.
cheat yes.
quite honistly I had to.
I declared it as i did it.
I was exausted.
I did not claim otherwise.
as well as took 3 hangdogs.
I still enjoyed the climb...
why? Hell, I was climbing.
that made me happy.
personal
understandibly the *rule* is not to do so...
I still enjoyed the accomplishment of leading for the first time in awhile.
I got my *mental* back
*gave myself a break* didn't beat myself up for hanging on a draw.
just my 2 cents*
~T
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kyhangdog
Jul 10, 2003, 2:01 PM
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I'm not saying I style every route. I've pulled on a draw before, but I can think of a lot of tips instead of how to cheat on a route.
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traddad
Jul 10, 2003, 2:18 PM
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Nikegirl,
Exactly.
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dead_milkman
Jul 10, 2003, 2:31 PM
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Nevertheless sometimes a useful skill... Minus the discrete part, anyhow.
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holmeslovesguinness
Jul 10, 2003, 2:53 PM
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That's too funny :lol: A lot of climbers take themsevles waaaaay to seriously, it's kind of refreshing to see an article like that.
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russman
Jul 10, 2003, 3:56 PM
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Hey T
I was thinking of all those hangdogs and the "aid" hold on the draw and all I can remember is that stream of "blue language" streaming from the top of that colum as I was gettign sun burned.
BTW...I am peeling now :oops: ...should have used teh sunscreen.
That was fun
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mother_sheep
Jul 10, 2003, 4:22 PM
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Cheating is relative.
I make it to the top of a climb, I win. After climbing for 11 hours with a 45 lbs pack on my back, I couldn't care less what "style" I use to reach my goal. I always try to achieve my goal without pulling on gear but sometimes, it really is a useful skill to have, especially when you're on a route where bailing is not an option.
To each his own.
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westside196
Jul 10, 2003, 4:31 PM
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I just read that article and I can't tell if it is a joke or not. Is it really promoting to do that?
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jt512
Jul 10, 2003, 5:01 PM
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In reply to: I just read that article and I can't tell if it is a joke or not. Is it really promoting to do that?
Lighten up, people. Of course it's a joke.
-Jay
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dsafanda
Jul 10, 2003, 6:03 PM
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The article is ofcoarse a joke but Tracy's point that cheating is relative is right on IMHO.
You think Hans and Yuji fired the Nose in under four hours with out pulling on gear? Speed climbing these days has evolved in to a hybrid technique somewhere between pure free climbing and full on aid. It's entirely dependent on occasionally pulling on gear and other nifty tricks. This doesn't make it any less athletic or impressive.
One of the best things about climbing is that the only person you have to answer to is yourself. There are no rules and there is no such thing as cheating.
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kyhangdog
Jul 10, 2003, 6:52 PM
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I guess the article is pretty light-hearted, so in that sense it's o.k. For me to pull on draws or hang on the ropes makes me want to do it again... clean.
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brianthew
Jul 10, 2003, 7:05 PM
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Pulling on gear is sometimes the best thing....being able to get to the top of a route so you needn't leave gear behind, or preventing a potentially dangerous fall (this happened to me on a trad lead a few weeks back) Like mentioned before, turning routes from 5.xx to 5.xx A0 just makes you want to go back and do it again pure.
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josher
Jul 10, 2003, 7:07 PM
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imo, its only cheating if your in comp. w/ someone, or keeping a score card. What does it matter to you if i rest on the rope? (btw, i dont)
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kyhangdog
Jul 10, 2003, 7:25 PM
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It might be an ethics thing... you know regional. I sprung up at the Red and the New, where, IMO, hangdogging is not the preferred way. Not that I don't hangdog, I do, but I guess it's a necessary evil. I guess, my main problem with it is that I've hangdogged in the past when I probably didn't have to.
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hangerlessbolt
Jul 10, 2003, 7:36 PM
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That’s why we have the distinction between onsights and redpoints.
If you’ve ever “worked” a route…then you’ve probably hung all over the thing…working out different sequences…then trying to piece it all together…lowering…then going for the redpoint.
We’ve worked the sh*t out of some routes.
Btw: the chick in the backless halter-top with the devil’s horns is smokin’! Put her in some knee-high stiletto 5.10’s and it’d be ON!…
here… discretely tension on *this*
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tenn_dawg
Jul 10, 2003, 7:41 PM
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That article is AWESOME. Soo funny, and I know they were serious. It's like distracting your chess opponent then moving a piece.
Hahaha
Travis
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zacrobinson
Jul 10, 2003, 8:26 PM
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wait until we hear the stories of the guy who stood on his own rope over a sharp rock and sliced it right in half. Gets hurt and sues Climbing for millions.
Right now that doesn souind like such a bad idea. I'm tired of my job, and I need a new rope and a new pair of shoes.
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rwaltermyer
Jul 10, 2003, 8:29 PM
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In reply to: wait until we hear the stories of the guy who stood on his own rope over a sharp rock and sliced it right in half. Gets hurt and sues Climbing for millions. Right now that doesn souind like such a bad idea. I'm tired of my job, and I need a new rope and a new pair of shoes.
well zacro... I hope you survive to collect your payment! :lol: :lol:
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