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zzzzz
Jul 12, 2003, 12:38 AM
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I have had the a pair of katanas for a while and liked them a lot. Thier fit and performance were good. I need to get a new pair of shoes- my katanas are falling apart and my feet are outfrowing them anyway. I am trying to decide whether to buy another pair of Katanas, or get a new type, mainly Miuras. I am also considering an anasazi line shoe (I've never owed 5.10 shoes).
Oh, and also, I am a 5.11 sport climber, climb mostly in the gym, and like vertical, crimpy/edgey routes
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styndall
Jul 12, 2003, 1:13 AM
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In reply to: Oh, and also, I am a 5.11 sport climber, climb mostly in the gym, and like vertical, crimpy/edgey routes
I think the miuras are what you're looking for. They edge like crazy, and they size like the katanas - ie narrow, asymmetrical, pretty narrow heel. I only wore a pair for a while, but I really dug them.
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milodog13
Jul 12, 2003, 1:19 AM
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MIURA.
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zzzzz
Jul 12, 2003, 1:36 AM
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But wouldn't a slipper (the katanas) perform better on steeps and plastic?
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koto
Jul 12, 2003, 2:00 AM
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Miuras are good, but treat them well or else you will be resoling in six months.
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hangerlessbolt
Jul 12, 2003, 3:25 AM
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if you like the muiras...try on the cobras for a slipper version...
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fo_d
Jul 12, 2003, 4:37 AM
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the Miuras are great for those crimpy face climbs they will hang on those tiny little nubs and the rubber is pretty decent for smearing too.
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cjcalls
Jul 12, 2003, 4:55 AM
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two words
MAD ROCK
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climbingpride
Jul 12, 2003, 6:19 PM
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In reply to: two words MAD ROCK
^SUCK!
For edging you want a stiffer sole, I cant stand madrocks cause you feel the outside of you foot just curving around the nub and not staying strait with the hold.
I'm glad someone asked this questing cause i was looking at the Muira's and Annasazi's.
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mountaingoat8
Jul 12, 2003, 6:33 PM
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I climb the steep hills of miami - i mean i'm a gym rat, but i climb 5.11 too. my second pair of shoes are miuras, and i love them. they fit great for semi-steep/vertical/slab routes with tiny chips, but they suck on really overhanging stuff. most of it is because they crunch up my toes into a tiny (well fitted) ball. my climbing buddy uses katanas, and he loves his, too. sometimes i'm jealous because i tried them on and they have a much more ergonomic fit (ie. no crunchiebunchie of toes). i never climbed in them, but the edges feel the same as the miuras and the more flat fit (of a katana) lets me toe-hook without screaming in pain. i say go with the katanas unless you're only going to do the semi-steep stuff. then again, i have really strong toes and the platform on miuras might work better for you if you aren't used to pointe shoes, which are as uncomfortable and difficult to fit as climbing shoes, only they're made with satin.
anasazi's suck. their heels are big enough to put my wallet and keys into. yuck! and the toes seem much more uncomfortable.
fun climbing!
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snowrocker
Jul 12, 2003, 6:34 PM
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When I bought my shoes I was either going to buy the katanas or the anasazi's. I tried both of them on and tested them out and I liked the katana's so much more, so I bought them. If you get the katana's buy them small because they will strech, they are a pain at first but now I love them.
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evoltobmilc
Jul 12, 2003, 7:13 PM
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I like the Anasazis, but this is mostly due to the shape of my foot. I simply can't put my feet in La Sportivas, and Boreals dig into my achilles a lot. 5.10s fit nice. Also, I find 5.10 rubber to be the stickiest stuff out there! Try some on, boulder around with 'em each for a bit, and see which you like the best.
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minnesotatrad
Jul 16, 2003, 1:19 AM
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Muiras are the way to go. The first day I used them I could tell they were going to be good for edging.
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ikefromla
Jul 16, 2003, 1:33 AM
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you suck
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minnesotatrad
Jul 16, 2003, 1:55 AM
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Do you mean me, ikefromla
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sillymnkee
Jul 16, 2003, 3:11 AM
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I owned Miuras and used them until I put a hole in the toe. I loved them but wanted to try a slipper or something with velcro just to make them easier to put on and take off. So I bought the Katanas. The Katanas aren't bad but there isn't one thing that the Katanas can do that the Miuras can't do better. Even with the quick-lace system on the Miuras, the Katanas don't save much time to put on. So I say Miuras hands down over Katanas. Sorry, I've never tried Anasazis.
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brianthew
Jul 16, 2003, 3:21 AM
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I just bought my second pair of Miuras. They rock like none other. I've tried Anasazis on, wasn't impressed...still liked my Miuras. They can pull off the smallest little ledges and divots, and allow my toe to hook things like crazy. I love them. They're the bestestest :P .
But the most important thing for you is trying the shoes on. My feet are made for Miuras, perhaps yours fit in better shoes.
MadRock was mentioned; if you can try some on, try some on. If they work for you, climb in them. You'll save some $$. Personally I don't like them, or at least the ones I've tried. They don't work for me.
Get what works for you.
PS: If you do lots of slabs, Miuras might not be the best choice...they still work, but there are many shoes that work better.
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pbjosh
Jul 16, 2003, 4:58 AM
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Cobras fit nothing like Miuras or Katanas, to compare them is a joke. Cobras are very soft shoes, good on overhanging terrain, pockets and to train your feet. Katanas and Miuras and Anasazis are all very similar and all excellent. I'd get whichever one fits better or is cheaper.
josh
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ptone
Jul 16, 2003, 6:26 AM
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I love my miuras. They've sculpted my big toes a bit, added these little love bumps over the knuckle, but in the end...
I love my miuras.
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agentoffortune
Jul 16, 2003, 6:38 AM
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I would go with Miura. Katanas are great but the only thing they offer that the Miuras don't are the velcro straps. Anasazis are alright but they fall apart rather fast and they don't feel right.
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chingas
Jul 16, 2003, 7:47 AM
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If you can, I suggest trying the Kaos from Evolv. A great shoe.
P.S., I have katanas, muiras, and cobras. Each shoe has it's own merits and I love them all!
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rwaltermyer
Jul 16, 2003, 12:45 PM
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In reply to: I love my miuras. They've sculpted my big toes a bit, added these little love bumps over the knuckle, but in the end... I love my miuras.
HA! Same here! My toes can now bend in ways they couldn't (before I bought my Muiras)
But I love them. Definitely, work on footwork cause they will wear quickly if you're sloppy. (But what rubber won't??!)
Definitely recommend them!
randy
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yomomma
Jul 16, 2003, 1:02 PM
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Hey, where are all the anasazi fans?! I love the anasazi velcros. The first time I wore them, they practically climbed the wall themselves! That said, I have heard a lot of good things about the muiras and was hoping they'd work for me. When I tried them I found they fit like a glove, but I just didn't feel as confident in them as I did in the anasazis -- the toe seemed too blunt to get a good purchase on tiny edges (though everyone says they edge like crazy).
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flyinghatchet
Jul 17, 2003, 1:38 AM
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I'm moving this to Gear Heads because it fits better in that forum than in this one.
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rhu
Jul 19, 2003, 1:01 AM
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I got a chance to try my Anasazi SW out yesterday and they made me feel SO much more comfortable on tiny edges and smears than the Equinoxs that I have been climbing in. I think that they helped my confidence as well as my climbing. Yahoo for the Anasazi!
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