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wordisborn
Jul 16, 2003, 4:43 PM
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What is the proper way to extend a TR anchor?
Lets say you set up a bomber 3 point anchor but you are still 2 feet from the lip of the rock. Can you then just put a locking beener on the anchor point and use a loop of webbing to extrend the anchor over the lip of rock?
THen connect your oval beeners to the hanging part of the webbing and put your rope through?
word
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scottcody
Jul 16, 2003, 4:49 PM
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Use two lockers and two loops of webbing, other wise you lose the redundancy in the system.
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robbovius
Jul 16, 2003, 4:50 PM
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In reply to: Use two lockers and two loops of webbing, other wise you lose the redundancy in the system.
ditto
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keinangst
Jul 16, 2003, 4:55 PM
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Great question.
You will have to do this setup pretty regularly--unless you like the idea of hanging out on the edge to create a single main point.
I just toss a couple of slings of spectra on there together with 2+ biners on both ends (redundancy everywhere). Slings and sewn runners are already sized, and eliminate the need to adjust knots in webbing to get it just right :wink:
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redpoint73
Jul 21, 2003, 11:42 AM
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Or girth hitch 2 pieces of webbing. No real need for lockers to join the pieces of webbing to each other
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watersprite
Jul 21, 2003, 7:17 PM
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have someone show you outside.... sheesh people!!! don't try to learn to set up anchors on an internet site. bad anchor = tragedy
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mother_sheep
Jul 21, 2003, 7:42 PM
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This may be the lamest question on the site but I'm curious so I've gotta ask. What about adjustable daisies??? Could they be used to extend anchors with a biner on each end, 1 per anchor? I mean you weight the suckers all day long when you're aiding and you can make them as long or as short as you need. I'm specifically speaking of the Metolious adjustable daisy.
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fear
Jul 21, 2003, 7:59 PM
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No adjustable daisy.... The loops are only meant to take body weight. Figure on a 1000 pound impact for a worse-case scenario on a toprope anchor.
Real simple folks, always have at least two loops of webbing or static cord going over the lip. Don't waste spectra for something so stupid unless you've got $$$ to burn. Just use tubular nylon 1"+ slings or a heavy static cord. Pad the edge(s), two locked biners on the rope end. Simple.
-Fear
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mother_sheep
Jul 21, 2003, 8:24 PM
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I figured the no would have something to do w/the loops.
Adjustable webbing. . .that would be a nice concept.
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orangekyak
Jul 21, 2003, 9:15 PM
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In reply to: Or girth hitch 2 pieces of webbing. No real need for lockers to join the pieces of webbing to each other
right on dude, i'm with you. hey redpoint73 check out the mass climbers thread there's a cool event coming up.
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ricardol
Jul 21, 2003, 9:40 PM
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dont use the adjustable daisies -- the fall force of a TR climber would cuse them to fail .. also they are more expensive than just webbing -- so why waste a good piece of gear on a TR anchor. -- in fact i believe that the metolious adj. daisies are rated to a few houndred pounds by the manufacturer.
watersprite: this is a great quetion to have explained on a forum, since the answer is very simple .. (throw some webbing over the lip, make sure its redundant) .. --
why else are we on this forum than to get technichal help? -- what you do with that info is your own deal ..
-- ricardo
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watersprite
Jul 21, 2003, 9:42 PM
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anchor failure is very serious, as is rappeling, and I think if your life is on the line, you should be shown in person, hands on.
You don't know who may read a thread and go out and use information that they may not understand.
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ricardol
Jul 21, 2003, 9:58 PM
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there should probably be a general disclaimer associaed with every post on RC.COM .. somthing like -- if you use any info on this forum, use it at your won risk -- you will die by using this information.
.. if someone reads something on rc.com and uses it without understanding what is going on .. then they will probably die. -- thats no reason though to not put the information out there for the rest of the population who will probably take enough time to make sure they know understand what they are reading.
.. climbing is dangerous -- climb at your own risk ..
i guess i'm just tired of seeing so many posts refusing to give an answer to a question and instead telling the poster to go get an instructor.. i much rather see the information being shared, and a stern warning that it could kill them if they do it wrong.
-- ricardo
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watersprite
Jul 21, 2003, 10:10 PM
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what is the point of posting it, then, if they have to check out the info anyway?
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wing_cutter
Jul 23, 2003, 4:52 PM
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Confirmation.
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dingus
Jul 23, 2003, 4:56 PM
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In reply to: I figured the no would have something to do w/the loops. Adjustable webbing. . .that would be a nice concept.
My webbing is totally adjustable... I use these things called knots.
Cheers!
DMT
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dingus
Jul 23, 2003, 5:06 PM
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In reply to: there should probably be a general disclaimer associaed with every post on RC.COM .. somthing like -- if you use any info on this forum, use it at your won risk -- you will die by using this information. i guess i'm just tired of seeing so many posts refusing to give an answer to a question and instead telling the poster to go get an instructor.. i much rather see the information being shared, and a stern warning that it could kill them if they do it wrong. -- ricardo
Some people just feel the need to nanny others. THEY SHOULDN'T BE TOLD THAT! THEY'RE NOT READY TO HEAR THIS! SOMEONE COULD GET KILLED! THERE ARE IMPRESSIONABLE AND STUPID PEOPLE READING THESE POSTS AND THEY WILL KILL THEMSEVES TRYING TO FOLLOW YOUR SCREWY INSTRUCTIONS!
Ahem.
Almost anything to do with climbing that is posted to this site is a potential death sentence. Would that we post nothing, speak of nothing, show nothing, unless its in person and perhaps we're getting paid for the chore? What is the purpose of coddling noobs if all you're going to tell them is seek professional instruction?
BS! This is a climbing site. People here talk about climbing.
DON'T TALK ABOUT CLIMBING! SOMEONE COULD GET KILLED! SEEK PROFESSIONAL HELP IF YOU WANT TO TALK ABOUT CLIMBING!
Warnings are for lawyers, real people don't read them anyway. And knowledge is the key to climbing safety, not withholding it.
Besides, when a person gives out faulty advice and it is recognized and pointed out, not only are the noobs better informed, but so is the bad advice person.
However, I personally wouldn't make this site (or any other)my sole source of information about climbing!
Cheers,
DMT
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watersprite
Jul 23, 2003, 5:11 PM
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Dingus, you are correct as always.
"Warnings are for lawyers, real people don't read them anyway. " guess I have been working around lawyers for too long. I don't want to be a nag - who likes hearing that? so - climb on, people, don't listen to me, I dont know what I'm talking about - have fun, be safe, etc.!!!
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ricardol
Jul 23, 2003, 6:22 PM
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.. i wholeheartedly agree dingus ..
.. the only place where i found some solid information on solo-aiding was on this site ... this info is hard to come by since no books on soloing are out there.. (that i found at least) ..
-- ricardo
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fracture
Jul 23, 2003, 6:26 PM
Post #20 of 21
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
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In reply to: You don't know who may read a thread and go out and use information that they may not understand.
Isn't that kinda not our responsibility?
Certainly what you seem to be advocating (which is simply not answering technical questions unless you are "in person") can't possibly help someone's safety: if they can be stupid enough to do something they read online without also reading a good rationale for it and/or double checking it with other sources, then presumably they can be stupid enough to make it up themselves (which one is much more likely screw up doing).
Witholding information is far less safe than having a plethora of information available, some of which may be incorrect or easily misunderstood (and on internet forums bad information tends to get corrected quickly---remember the old USENET adage that the easiest way to get an answer for a question is to post an incorrect answer for the question). But it's simply not our responsibility anyway.
And let it be said that these "Rock climbing is dangerous blah blah" disclaimers are stupid also. If someone can't figure out that rock climbing is dangerous without reading the disclaimer, they should get themselves hurt and do the gene pool a favor.
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troutboy
Jul 23, 2003, 6:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I figured the no would have something to do w/the loops. Adjustable webbing. . .that would be a nice concept. My webbing is totally adjustable... I use these things called knots. Cheers! DMT |
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