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ptone
Aug 2, 2003, 11:55 PM
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The slings on some of my cams are worn and getting dry (like sun dried), so I was thinking about replacing them. Has anyone done this?
I'm wondering if using cordolettes would work instead of tying webbing...(I like dyneema best cause its slinky and puts less pressure on the gear from rope movement, but I've heard it doesn't take a knot very well).
I have cordolettes on my hexes, mostly 5-6mm (depending on size of hex) which works fine but is a bit stiff.
The alternative I guess would be to pay some company to sew new slings on, but I don't know if that is even possible.
Any experience or opinions?
thanks,
-p
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coldclimb
Aug 3, 2003, 12:06 AM
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The little tag that comes attached to the cam says to send it back to them for reslinging, so that is an option. Dunno about the cordolette, but I've seen it done.
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bustinmins
Aug 3, 2003, 12:06 AM
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I don't have any experience with it but I do know that BD will install new ones for you if you send your Cams to them.
That is all that I know. I look forward to the responses on this section. I would say that Cordellette might work - I mean it works on hexes but I think it might reduce the overall effectiveness of the cam. Isn't cordelette only good to something like 2600 pounds??? I think the cam slings are good to at least 3200and higher so...if that is indeed true and this newbie isn't filling you full of misinformation - I'd send them in to have the slings redone.
Peace,
JD
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ptone
Aug 3, 2003, 4:07 AM
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The cams are metolius 4's and WC tech friends.
Wondering about tying dyneema, any info on a backed up water knot, or will it only work with nylon?
I know its the net, but I'd love to hear opinions.
thanks.
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alpnclmbr1
Aug 3, 2003, 4:28 AM
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Lots of gear shops will re-sling for around 6 bucks each, or less. Anyplace that has a bar tacker. (fish)
Don't tie dyneema or spectra, it is ridiculously weak when knotted.
Knotted slings on cams are a nightmare as far as I am concerned, you use to not have a choice, now you do.
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dirtineye
Aug 3, 2003, 3:20 PM
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If you are determined to tie em, here is a thought: Rope companies, like PMI, sell short ends of climbing rope cheap. You could buy yourself a 100 foot leftover section of good climbing rope in an applicable diameter for instance, and tie yourself silly. I forget the price per foot, but I got myself a short (135 feet each) set of verglas double/twin ropes for about 100 bucks, including shipping. I think that comes out cheaper than anything else.
If you go with stitched, use someone certified, like the manufacturer.
Personally, I'd go with the stutched.
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the_dude
Aug 4, 2003, 5:05 AM
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If they're Wild Country cams, call em up. They're real good about fixing their units. The turn around is pretty quick from what I remember. I agree with the other poster stating that knotted slings are not a good idea. That just take up more room on your gear sling.
Cheers!
The Dude
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one900johnnyk
Aug 4, 2003, 5:24 PM
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like everyone else said... i don't know how it works but i think yates gear will resling too.... at any rate it may be a little more expensive to get someone else to resling but then you won't have to deal w/an f'in fisherman's knot and cordage... it'll be worth it
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vegastradguy
Aug 4, 2003, 5:33 PM
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I know that Fish does it for $3.25 a cam if you send the webbing along with it, otherwise its $4.25 a cam. Many local shops will do it as well (not a chain like Sports Chalet or Galyans, although they might). http://www.fishproducts.com
I just checked the Yates page, and they will resling cams with either a standard sling for $3.50 or a double length sling for $4.50. They are also the authorized service center (US) for DMM, Camp, and WC, and you have your choice of Nylon or Spectra. http://www.yatesgear.com
So, lots of options. I'd go with a company like Fish or Yates before putting cordage onto the cams. Bartacks are bomber and fairly cheap!
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naitch
Aug 4, 2003, 5:59 PM
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I've seen people buy short pre-stitched slings and girth hitch them to the cam. I don't know about strength, but it is probably better than tying cord to it.
People also tie off the smaller rigid Friends with cording so that they can be used in horizontal cracks. So using cording can't be all that bad. It would be good to hear of more people's experience or how the different methods compare in strength.
Sending them back to the facotry or equivlent sounds like the best way, but that means doing without them for a while unless you have a large supply of cams
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sspssp
Aug 4, 2003, 6:16 PM
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In reply to: I just checked the Yates page, and they will resling cams with either a standard sling for $3.50 or a double length sling for $4.50. They are also the authorized service center (US) for DMM, Camp, and WC, and you have your choice of Nylon or Spectra. http://www.yatesgear.com
I have used Yates numerous times and I highly recommend them. They have (at least for me) always had a turn around of 1 or 2 days. Cheap and they do a good job.
They will do custom jobs very cheap also. I have had all of my cams resewn at Yates with longer slings than the original.
I have also standardized the color on all my cams. For instance, all of my "tight hands" cams (camalot, friends and aliens) are sewn with a red sling (#1 camalot). My main partner and I love this. It does drive my occasional partners crazy.
And no, I don't have any connection with Yates.
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cthcrockclimber
Aug 4, 2003, 6:37 PM
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Duct tape.
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vegastradguy
Aug 4, 2003, 7:50 PM
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The girth hitch isnt strong enough of a hitch (in my humble, newbie-ish opinon) to be used in leader fall situations. It's one thing to girth hitch your daisies when you're clipped in at anchor, it's another to fall on a girth-hitched cam....
anyway, stick with bartacked cam slings. like it says above, cheap, quick, and done by professionals!
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dirtineye
Aug 4, 2003, 10:19 PM
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By the way, when you get anything sewn from Yates, it has the little CE approval thingy on it, and the kN it's rated for.
That's a cool idea about having all the hand crack sizes slung in the same color! I have about 5 different brands of cam, your idea might be the way...
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rockmx
Aug 4, 2003, 10:45 PM
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It will cost 7.50 per unit. Send them to:
Black Diamond Returns
2084 E 3900 S
Salt Lake City, UT
84124
Make sure to include a note stating what you would like us to do, a return
shipping address, and phone number. Thanks.
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sharpie
Aug 4, 2003, 10:53 PM
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http://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/cams/mt_camresling.htm
I've had these guys resling all of my Metolius cams with thier Mobius double loop (like Trango slings) Spectra Ultratape.
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punk
Aug 4, 2003, 11:16 PM
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I hope this will help (its working better for me)
otherwise just send them to the original manufacture or any of the other previous suggested places
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joegoesup
Aug 6, 2003, 6:51 PM
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I have made tied ones of my own with a water knot, but they are bulkier. They held falls just fine.
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