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ptone
Aug 8, 2003, 6:02 AM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Mar 5, 2003
Posts: 350
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In reply to: How should I practice placing gear? For example, should I keep all the pieces on an oval? Wouldn't that be difficult to deal with on a wall. Do I use like trad draws for hooking in the nut loop? Or like sown draw slings?
The draw length depends on the placement, find an experienced climber and ask them to show you when each is appropriate.
I was lucky to find an experienced partner as I got into trad. I seconded his climbs, pulling his gear and seeing his placements. He showed me how to place, no-nos and good spots, what to watch for (a placement can look and feel secure, but not be, for various reasons) and everything. It was great.
He had me start with only passive, and I'm glad about that, it taught me to really look at the rock and placement.
For practice, I just placed gear whenever I could. I just climbed with whoever would go. If I was toproping with friends, I'd sew the line up with all the gear I could, often getting a little slack and jumping on the placements to see how they held. If I was alone, sometimes I'd just place them near ground level and clip a draw and hang.
Best to do it with experienced climbers. Ask around, offer to be a belay slave, you'll find someone for sure!
Good luck, and happy climbing.
peace,
-p
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arlen
Aug 9, 2003, 5:11 PM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: May 3, 2001
Posts: 127
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In reply to: another recommendation is the smiley nuts, which are a copy of the abc nuts, which are a copy of the bd nuts. they're at http://www.rei-outlet.com
Actually, aren't ABC Huevos the descendents of Smiley's Wedgies which are copies of BD Stoppers? Man, I need to stop posting to these boards and go climb :lol:
I see 4 main kinds of nuts in widespread use: stoppers (or wc rocks, huevos, wedgies, rock empire et al), wallnuts (a great complement to the first), aluminum offsets, and frost sentinels (to which metolius curve nuts are really quite similar); in about that order of ubiquity (and probably usefulness).
WC Curve Hexes are considerably better than BD Hexes in granite: the curved corners don't deform into the rock as much, making them easier to clean. In slick quartzite, BD might be better.
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blindslap
Aug 9, 2003, 7:11 PM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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don't get the hexes too big. they just get annoying. I started climbing with BD stoppers #4-13 i have the ABC's also and the only difference is the cables are longer on the ABC's and a little stiffer other than that they are the exact same. I also had hexes from #4-11 after a full season of climbing i never placed the eleve. Save some money and don't buy the eleven, instead go one size smaller in hexes and maybe start doubling your nuts. Later get a couple of hand sized forged friends. they're cheap and they work really well.
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petsfed
Aug 9, 2003, 7:18 PM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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In reply to: don't get the hexes too big. they just get annoying. I started climbing with BD stoppers #4-13 i have the ABC's also and the only difference is the cables are longer on the ABC's and a little stiffer other than that they are the exact same. I also had hexes from #4-11 after a full season of climbing i never placed the eleve. Save some money and don't buy the eleven, instead go one size smaller in hexes and maybe start doubling your nuts. Later get a couple of hand sized forged friends. they're cheap and they work really well.
Everybody's always down on the #11. I love that thing! Great for pounding on the nut tool to free that really stuck nut, great for gigantic tapers where you could probably sling a walking stick and throw it behind the crack and use it for pro. Don't rule out the #11, but don't expect to use it much either. I always take the #8-#11 wherever I go, as they seem to go where you least expect. And besides, I like saving the cams (3, 3.5 and sometimes 4 camalots) for when I really need them. If I have time to place a hex, I will.
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tt
Aug 10, 2003, 4:51 AM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: Apr 6, 2003
Posts: 58
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In reply to: I always take the #8-#11 wherever I go, as they seem to go where you least expect. And besides, I like saving the cams (3, 3.5 and sometimes 4 camalots) for when I really need them. If I have time to place a hex, I will.
I like using hexes too. I don't see why many people are down on them. If you carry nuts, then placing hexes is like placing a extra large nut. It takes no longer to place a hex in a constriction than a nut in a constriction...
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sprtclimber
Aug 12, 2003, 7:22 AM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 40
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I now have the money to buy a set of hexes, but I'm not sure which ones are best for me.
I plan on slinging the hexes I buy, because I will be using them in the high sierra once I learn to place gear better. The short stiff wire won't work well in those alpine conditions and they http://won't require a draw.
I will be using them on primarily granite like Yosemite. I will also be using them for TR in my area which is that crumbling crystal granite.(decomposing)
I'm thinking about getting a set of BD 7-11; I already have BD stoppers 4-13.
I would like to know if this is a good setup for my situation?
thanks for all the advise so far
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bustinmins
Aug 14, 2003, 9:41 PM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 507
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I have two sets of 4-13 BD nuts and two sets of 5-10 BD Hexes. I took the advice of a good friend of mine - I bought those when I budgeted more. :) Now I carry those, 5 tri-cams(they rock) and 8 BD Cams.
Hope you have a ball.
Gravity never sleeps,
JD
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clymber
Aug 14, 2003, 10:04 PM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Feb 8, 2002
Posts: 1259
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i would go for a full set of nuts some med. size hexs and the first 6 tri cams...i know ill get hammered for saying to get some tri cams but on the east cost they rock not to sure of what its like in CA
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thegreytradster
Aug 14, 2003, 10:21 PM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
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Stick with the BD (or the obvious copies) stoppers, from #4 up. ( you can add the small stuff later). Hexcentrics from #7 to #11 (although once you get cams you'll probably leave them in a drawer somewhere).
Tricams work great as long as you keep in mind that they almost always require two hands to clean. Be kind to your second and keep that in mind. The smallest three or maybe four are the most useful.
Don't know about other areas but in CA granite the nuts with a more extreme curve than the BD and imitators are a real pain in the A to clean. The BD types are plenty secure. Same applies to the fancier curved replacements for Hexentrics.
Buy as many runners with two carabineers each as you can afford. Mix up the materials and lengths, some made from cord. If money's tight, tie them yourself from 9/16" super tape or even 1"
Don't get any dogbone draws.
You can never be to thin, rich or have to many runners
I am not a top roper.....................................!
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