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hasbeen


Aug 13, 2003, 6:00 PM
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On The Edge was the best, for sure. Are they still in business?

Desnivel and Vertical are fun, even if you don't read Spanish or French. Somehow there just seems to be more life and flair in those mags.

For some reason, the US mags have an issue with humor. Climbing is a goofy, if beautiful, sport with a long history of bad behavior and irreverent antics. But the US mags like to portray it as all very serious. When they do opt for humor, it's generally sophomoric. Largo and I talked about this once. He can get away with humor but has to watch the editors like a hawk as they'll usually try and cut his subtle bits out. He was telling me about a Shakespeare reference he used in a piece that they kept cutting and trying to sneak past him. When he finally confronted them, it was because they "didn't get it." Why would they? Who's ever heard of Shakespeare?

The mags may not sponsor climbers, in general, but they do use photographers and sell advertising, both of which make them somewhat beholden to this. I know, this is business, but because climbing is still a small world there just isn't a lot of leverage. You can't afford to piss off one advertiser or major contributor in order to give your mag more flair. So you end up compromising, which translates as boring.


sixter


Aug 13, 2003, 6:34 PM
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The question is . . . is it because the Editors only want stories about hard core folks, or because normal folks just don't submit articles? I bet that could be a good pile of the problem right there.

This is a very valid point. If you do photography, or write, it would be good to send a few photos with a manuscript. You might just be supprised that they might decide to publish it. It is probably best to first write a letter with a SASE to get submission guidelines before submitting your article ideas, photos, or manuscripts.

Was looking through my 2002 Photographer's Market book, and Climbing didn't have a listing, but Rock & Ice pays $600 for a cover photo, $50-$350 for inside photos, and $25-50 for website images.


maculated


Aug 13, 2003, 6:40 PM
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Starting to think it might be worth it . .. now, if I could just think of a topic.


barryglading


Aug 14, 2003, 2:55 PM
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I find that with US motorcycle mags too - absolutely NO sense of humour. And, come to think of it, music mags too - compare Rolling Stone (OK, true, not really a music mag) with Q.
Why do Americans take themselves so seriously ?! Ha, sorry, being sarcastic here (just in case anyone takes me seriously....uh, oh, long slippery slope to Catch 22 here)
John Long excepted, the writing does tend toward the bland. However, every now and then, some Pom is allowed space in the US mags, and then the issue really brightens up. I love the guy that writes in (I think) Climbing about climbing in Britain, where they have footnotes to translate his language and colloquialisms - classic!
I'll look for 'On the Edge' when I'm up in Toronto this weekend - thanks.
Cheers
Barry (FL resident, ex-pat Kiwi)


xcaliclimber


Aug 14, 2003, 3:10 PM
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Climbing magazine has my vote


alpinerockfiend


Aug 15, 2003, 5:53 PM
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Climbing magazine has my vote

Even though Alpinist is obviously the hands-down best, there are other reasons one should read it over Climbing. The editor-at-large, Jonathan Thesenga, was fired for pulling a drunken stunt in a campground- a stunt that many climbers can personally relate to! Most of us have campfire memories that are as vivid and memorable as the climbs themselves.
I don't want to be caught reading a publication that views the soul of climbing within society's current standards and norms.

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