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flamingfeet17
Aug 20, 2003, 3:43 PM
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I heard once that going from V3 to V4 is probably one of the hardest jumps in ratings. i was just wondering if anyone else has heard that. I can climb V3's regularly but it seems like sending a V4 is a totally different level. just wondering what everybody thinks. Thanks
Andrew
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drucasinoble
Aug 20, 2003, 3:47 PM
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Only in your head bro. Try sendin' some problems without checkin the ratings. You might be suprised. 8)
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thrillseeker05
Aug 20, 2003, 3:48 PM
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In my opinion it is the transition from V4 to V5 that seems like a whole new level. V4 is just a bit more concentration. You can do it just stay at em.
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fcorl
Aug 20, 2003, 3:57 PM
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It's not an easy transition, but it's not the hardest. Considering only very few have ever done V14's it would seem maybe going from 13 to 14 would be a difficult transition. At my age, I will never know. :D
More seriously, after you are in the 3-4 range don't expect the big jumps from grade to grade. it will be a slow process from 3 to 4 or 5 to 6 full of ups and downs. You may get a 4 and then maybe a 5. Once you get that 5 it will be tough on your ego to get spanked by a 3 or 4, but it happens to everyone. Just be patient, try to stay healthy and also remember that some climbs just may not be your style, so don't get too frustrated. Also some climbs may be your style, don't stay on those all day because it makes you feel and look good.
Enjoy the struggle.... Would you have any sense of achievement, if it were an easy transition.
frank
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flamingfeet17
Aug 20, 2003, 4:04 PM
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ya i that's what i've found too. some climbs are just not my style like i am horrible when it comes to long stretches cuz i'm so not flexible and then my friend will do it easy. that was very good advice Thanks
Andrew
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craggy
Aug 20, 2003, 4:05 PM
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Never heard that and wouldn't get all caught up in it... Hey, if you go into a V4 boulder problem defeated then you will not send.
Anyway, just relax, breath and climb! The rest will follow...
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t-dog
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Aug 20, 2003, 4:05 PM
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It really depends on your style, the problem itself and how good you are at reading a route or problem. When you get to V4s and harder problems, figuring out the easiest way to do it is often the key and it can take time to learn how to do that.
Also, if the problem is "your style" or not can make a huge difference on how it feels to you.
My best piece of advice would be to try many different V4s and you'll probably find one that you can do for one reason or the other.
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karmaklimber
Aug 20, 2003, 4:46 PM
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Yea I agree, everyone gave some really good advice; I think the jump from V3's to V4's isnt as big as the transition from 4's to 5's. I've found that when moving from 3's to 4's, most of the change in the set of problems I've been working has been primarily in sequencing, body positioning, and using my big toes more. Don't forget to breathe.
Just keep bouldering hard the days you do, and don't forget to give yourself plenty of time to rest inbetween attempts and on your rest days. It'll come with time.
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cloudbreak
Aug 20, 2003, 4:56 PM
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In reply to: Only in your head bro. Try sendin' some problems without checkin the ratings. You might be suprised. 8)
....Exactly! Quit letting numbers rule your mind.
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flamingfeet17
Aug 20, 2003, 5:02 PM
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you know we're all about the ratings. i don't think many people can say they wouldn't look at a climb and see what it's rated. i think it's just human nature. especially if your competitive at all it's how you know your getting better and improving. I guess if you've climbed long enough and just do it i think the ratings wouldn't matter but for me i'm at the level where ratings are everything. Thanks
Andrew
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norskagent
Aug 20, 2003, 5:05 PM
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numbers mean everything, how can you tick the next highest number if you don't keep track of them? How will you know whether to feel good or bad if you do or don't send when you don't know the number? why waste your time on less than worthy problems when you can bag big numbers?
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boulderman
Aug 20, 2003, 5:24 PM
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exactly, this is a quote from me on another post
In reply to: If climbing boulders isn't about ratings, then what is it about. Ratings on boulders are all about the next hardest rating right? It's not about safety. I say it's all about the ratings. Those of you who say f!@$k the ratings and just have fun must not be able to climb harder than V0! Or you are bitter old men who find climbing harder and harder as they get older! :shock: |
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thrillseeker05
Aug 20, 2003, 5:59 PM
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Dude, don’t get carried away with your “numbers are everything” religion. I agree it is a great way to show improvement but I think what is implied is that …. It really should be about just climbing/bouldering. “why waste your time on less then worthy problems”, really you should re-think this. When climbing/bouldering all good problems short of choss are worthy in my book. I have been on some super fun V3’s, I have sent a V6 that I hated. And been stumped on a V4. ratings do matter and that is why they are there. The point is just don’t make it your life. outside of the gym sometimes you just don’t even know what the rating is… sometimes you just invent your own route for friends to try. It’s all good fun dude.
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norskagent
Aug 20, 2003, 6:02 PM
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reeel...reeeel...got one!
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curt
Aug 20, 2003, 6:48 PM
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In reply to: I heard once that going from V3 to V4 is probably one of the hardest jumps in ratings. i was just wondering if anyone else has heard that. I can climb V3's regularly but it seems like sending a V4 is a totally different level. just wondering what everybody thinks. Thanks Andrew
Just go out and establish a new problem that feels about V3 to you and then rate it V4. Its so simple really.
BTW, I find that going from B1 boulder problems to B2 problems seems like a big jump in difficulty. Hmmm.......
Curt
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rrrADAM
Aug 20, 2003, 7:23 PM
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Moved to Bouldering. ~Adam
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climber49er
Aug 20, 2003, 8:00 PM
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Now you've done it Adam
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federicosuave
Aug 20, 2003, 8:19 PM
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In reply to: I heard once that going from V3 to V4 is probably one of the hardest jumps in ratings. i was just wondering if anyone else has heard that. I can climb V3's regularly but it seems like sending a V4 is a totally different level. just wondering what everybody thinks. Thanks Andrew
But then begins a long process of working a lot of problems at that level, (and in most cases, still working problems a few levels down as well). That is, just becuase you can climb V-4, don't expect to flash V-3 :D
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solid
Aug 21, 2003, 2:50 AM
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they're all easy.
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deadpointman
Aug 21, 2003, 3:20 AM
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People, let's make a distinction here. There's a big difference between using numbers (and I mean multiple #s from different problems) to get a general idea of how hard you're climbing and getting hung-up on whether you can claim you're a Vhatever climber. If you've climbed 10 V3s at a variety of different areas, it means something. Whether or not you've ever sent a V5 at some point in your life does not do a good job of describing how hard you climb. Neither does getting denied by a single V2 mean that you suck. You know you're improving when you're able to knock off a number of problems at a certain level. Is this making sense?
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bouldertoad
Aug 21, 2003, 4:15 AM
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I did not find the jump from V2-V4 to be particularly difficult. While it was not easy as has been said before it just takes a little more concentration and maybe more memorization of the moves. I found the most difficult jump was from v7-v8. While I never completed a V8 there were quite a few i was close to sending before my 6 month stint at Hueco tanks was up. It seemed like you needed a lot more technique to put a V8 in the bag than a V7. Just my .02
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ptone
Aug 21, 2003, 5:10 AM
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Boy, sometimes you'd think all the boulders here were right by the ocean shore eh?
I think the question was-what was the transition like from V3 to V4 for us...
V3 to V4 for me was the leap that really started the seperation of bouldering and routes for me. That's where I first got a bit spanked, and realized that comittment in bouldering is about focusing power and movement, while on rope its more about focusing your head and position.
V3 felt like climbing hard routes, same kind of demands.
The first V4 I did was a long sloped underhung traverse, with hard openhand slopers and heel hooks, to a weird campus off a crimper to mantle top. Those holds spit me off, it seemed impossible. Then I stopped climbing it like a route and started bouldering, and it started to make sense. It's friggin hard! I love it!
Since then it's just about intensity :twisted:
peace
-p
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joeschmoe
Aug 22, 2003, 12:52 AM
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well i never payed attention to ratings until i realized i was doing v3 and v4. but found i get stuck on v5. But i think i've found my problem, i'm not drinking beer. but anyway don't worry so much about how hard it is to progress, its supposed to be hard :).
-- Josh
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unabonger
Aug 22, 2003, 11:56 PM
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Take it from a rusty old has-been:
You might think the jump from v3 to v4 is difficult, and you'd be right, son.
However, until you've made the drop from v9 back to v2, you don't know from difficult. Goddamn it's been hard. I used to do v5 in my Chaco's (gratuitous plug).
The crinky UnaBonger
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