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israelclimber
Aug 28, 2003, 4:27 PM
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I am looking to buy some nuts and have only used BD Stoppers and WC Rocks. I like what I hear about these two pieces of pro but have never used them. Any thoughts on these two. Is one better than the other?
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epic_ed
Aug 28, 2003, 4:52 PM
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I have both sets in question. If you aid climb or climb in an area where there are flaring placements, the HB offsets rule. The DMMs have a greater range and are very versatile.
Ed
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israelclimber
Aug 28, 2003, 4:57 PM
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I just arrived in the states and will be climbing in the Whites of NH and the NY, Conn area as well. I am not sure what the flavor of the rock is. But I have been climbing mostly limestone in Israel with lots of placements formed by the rain wearing away at the rock leaving a lot of little nubbins on the inside of the rock with lots of flares and revers flares and NO parrallel cracks. Obviously I would like to get something that is good for both places.
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dsafanda
Aug 28, 2003, 5:04 PM
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I have the Wallnuts and my primary climbing partner has HB offsets. I much prefer the HB offsets and in fact left the Wallnuts at home on my last climb. If I need to double or triple up I prefer to carry a set of standard BD stoppers and a set of HB offsets. Only as a last resort do I add the Wallnuts to the mix. Ed is right in that they sometimes fit where nothing else would but counting on such placements is a crapshoot at best. Also, they are often a bitch to clean!
I also have the DM Peanuts. They're a nice compliment to a set of HB micronuts.
fyi. This is opinion is all based on Yosemite granite.
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takeit4granite
Aug 28, 2003, 6:32 PM
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Registered: May 31, 2002
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HB Off sets hands down!!
I picked up a pair in Yosemite almost 10 years ago and they rule everywhere! Squamish granite, Yosemite granite, French limestone etc.
If I ever see them for sale again (in Canada) I will buy two full sets.
(My two cents)
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israelclimber
Aug 28, 2003, 8:12 PM
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I was just looking for places to purchase the Offsets and I noticed that they only sell 7-11 alloy offsets and 1-6 are brass. The brass seem like finger crack material. What would be the comparison between the HB and the BD or WC nuts? i.e. is 7 equivalent to 7 on BD or 4 in the WC? By the by I am a 5.6/7 leader.
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israelclimber
Aug 28, 2003, 8:18 PM
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I was just comparing to BD. I wasn't sure to measure by width or length? But I would want the equivalent of 4-13 BD or 1-10 WC. Would that be 4-11 of the HBs?
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maldaly
Aug 28, 2003, 8:20 PM
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The brass/bronze ones are all tips and smaller size. For finger-lock sizes the small aluminum ones rule.
BTW, these nuts rule.
Malcolm
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israelclimber
Aug 28, 2003, 8:37 PM
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I am not climbing finger cracks most likely. I want to know which pieces are equivalent to BD stoppers 4-13 or WC rocks 1-10. Am I going to need to get a full set of BD or WCs to cover the wholes?
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mewalrus
Aug 29, 2003, 2:09 AM
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I would start with a set of BD stoppers or equivalent. Then buy offsets(now or later) as a compliment. Just one newbies opinion.
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punk
Aug 29, 2003, 8:28 AM
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Israel,
just get a set of WC rocks and if u really need it a set 0-7 of brass HB I know lime and it will take allot of small gear but where you are NH, Gunks, Daks you will need what mention above also get the camp tricams up to #2
Be-ha-tzla-cha
BTW I just moved from NYC to the West cost Seattle and originally from Ramat Gan
:D :)
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mesomorf
Aug 29, 2003, 11:59 AM
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One word: Metolius.
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geezergecko
Aug 29, 2003, 2:54 PM
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In many words: Why Metolius? I too am looking for a supplement to my BD Stoppers to use on Ontario limestone. I can get Metolius Curved nuts or DMM Wallnuts locally but I have to special order HB Offsets (ie. expensive). Yet I met an accomplished local climber that swore by HB Offsets. So what gives: Why Metolius?
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israelclimber
Aug 29, 2003, 3:10 PM
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In Israel my buddy had WC Rocks and we placed lots of small pieces in the little limestone cracks. I was looking for something to go with that. I assume anyone I climb with here has BD Stoppers or some form of curved stopper (WC, ABC..) I also have Tricams thru #3. The question is still DMM Wallnuts, versus HB offsets (again the assumption is 1-11? and how do they match up the BD or WC. Nice to see other Israelis throwin down on trad!!
Board Monkey, ani me ha tzfafon? Laheet!
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punk
Aug 29, 2003, 3:25 PM
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If u already got a set of WC rocks and Tricams then u good...
I will get the HB set (they stickier) to compliment the first set (they WILL FIT where other don’t…and if u think of visiting Yosemite, they are pretty much MANDATORY) the DMM wallnuts are great as a second set and fit anywhere u will need them
Personally I don’t like BD or ABC and MUCH rather the WC and even the DMM but that is a matter of preference nothing more
:wink: :wink:
Shabat Shalom
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