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canadianclimber
Sep 7, 2003, 6:40 AM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2002
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What diameter of rope is best for leading in gyms? In a way, a skinnier rope seems better because you don't really have to worry about rock abrasion indoors, and its lighter. A thicker rope would be heavier, but would stand up to repeated falls better.
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overlord
Sep 7, 2003, 3:25 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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go for a thicker one. since you wont really be pulling a lot of it, extra weight wont really matter. and the draws are usully in a more or less straight line so even rope drag is not of realy importance. and its more durable.
i would say to get a lenght like this the lenght of the longest lead route plus the height of the wall plus 5m (15ft).
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pehperboy
Sep 7, 2003, 6:55 PM
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Registered: Jun 21, 2003
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The "garden variety" 10.5 mm rope is what many people use indoors. Good way to do it is find someone else who's looking for an indoor rope, split the cost of a 50 or 60 metre non-dry and cut it in half. The shorter length is also easier to deal within the confines of a gym.
I'd go with your logic of durability over lightness. Makes more sense since a) weight is not an issue (unless you are taking some long arduous apline climb to get to your climbing gym), and b) you want to be pushing yourself over the winter in the gym, taking falls and getting back on the wall to improve your climbing, so when you get back outside you will take fewer falls in a less forgiving atmosphere.
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ptone
Sep 8, 2003, 3:08 AM
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Registered: Mar 5, 2003
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Splitting a rope with someone for indoors is a great idea. Our gym here is pretty tall (~56'or so) but even with a big overhang and the roof the longest lead is about 75' so half a rope is perfect.
I've climbed with friends' skinny ropes, and have to admit they are great to use, weightless and great clipping...
However, a good belayer helps way more than a light rope when you're pulling to clip, and in the gym the bolts are lined up perfectly for 90% of the climbs, (which are short) and the bolts are close so it's unlikely you'll find critical but insanely delicate clips, so weight isn't as big a deal.
What you want to think about is that you'll probably never rap there, so you're lowering on your rope over and over, which wears it alot.
Also, since you're as safe as you'll get leading with threaded t-bolts every meter you can try hard stuff and fall all you like, which can wear too. Also with close and perfect bolts, you're not falling that far, so you might want a rope with a little higher impact force, cause it won't stretch as far if you're working moves over and over.
Just a thought.
Peace
-p
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