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jude
Aug 26, 2003, 10:15 PM
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Looking into getting some hexes. My only (and limited) experience is with BD hexcentrics. What's the general opinion on straight v rounded hexes?
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fireyxplosion
Aug 26, 2003, 10:27 PM
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hey,
I use metolius hexes. They are clearly curved. I thought that would be more versitl but i would think a strait sided version would keep more surface area on the rock. I still hold that opinion after using them, but I would still be interested in hearing your urse.
But yeah,
metolius hexes are working great for me.
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haydukelives
Aug 26, 2003, 10:53 PM
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I've used Hexentrics and the Metolius curved hexs. They both work just fine, but I think the curves have advantages. First, the convex side, if placed down in a horizontal, seems to increase the camming leverage. Second, the concave side can fit over irregularities in the rock, creating three points of contact even in wavy cracks. This allows for a more stable placement.
If I were buying a whole new set, I'd go Metolius. Now, if only they could invent some that weren't so damn noisy.
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ep
Aug 26, 2003, 10:58 PM
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In reply to: Now, if only they could invent some that weren't so damn noisy.
They have. They're called Poly Hexes.
http://www.jeejo.com.au/altitude.htm
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thrillseeker05
Aug 26, 2003, 11:03 PM
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never seen those.. has anyone used them??/
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tt
Sep 2, 2003, 4:23 AM
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I mostly have used the metolius hexes. I like them fine, and do feel that there are more placement options because of the shape. I have also used slung rockcentrics, and I like those too, but they are even more noisy than the metolius!
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ryanhos
Sep 2, 2003, 5:48 AM
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I like curved hexes.
Curved pro: I feel that curved hexes fit in a larger variety of placements because the curved side is less picky about the angle of the constriction.
Curved con: I feel less comfortable camming curved hexes.
Curved con: My placements tend to get stuck more easily. (i.e. requiring some force to remove) With the straight hexes i've used, they just lift right out the way they went in. Perhaps it's a difference in the way I use each type.
I love my WC slung curved hexes. (I want a #2!) Nothing feels better than dropping a hex between two gigantic boulders and thinking "yeah, i could hang a car off of this." Of course that's probably because I'm a noob and am still learning to trust my nut placements.
And if you're just setting TR, go for some slung hexes. (dyneema, not cord! Cord blows because of the large knots.) I won't list my reasons for loving slung hexes here, but if you're curious PM me. I just feel that they have several benefits over cabled hexes if you're only setting TR.
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soccer_fan
Sep 2, 2003, 7:05 AM
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I've found the BD hexes to be particularly noisey; I decided to go with a mix of BD and Wild Country hexes to fill in my rack till I can afford to fill it in with cams. I have really liked the Wild Country rockcentrics so far. They're slung on dynema which seems a little easier for the routes I've been up b/c I haven't needed to also clip a runner. (routes were at Lake Lincoln in AR)
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fanederhand
Sep 2, 2003, 11:32 AM
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I have a set of BD hexes. When placed properly they are bomber. Have not used the curved hexes. And yes they are noise makers. Sounds like a bunch of cattle bells coming up the mountains when I have them on my rack. But when doing Alpine accents they beat those heavy cams for weight.
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adamtd
Sep 6, 2003, 4:42 AM
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I've never used curved hexes, but I've used BD straight edge hexes for 10 years now. I love them and wouldn't trade them for teh world. I'll place a good hex over anything in my rack. Hexes rule. Just spend a lot of time practicing.
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herm
Sep 8, 2003, 11:14 PM
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The curved hexes are a bit more versital, in general, but are little trickier to place well. Hexes are the way to go on moderate and alpine routes.
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talons05
Sep 8, 2003, 11:23 PM
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Ditto the above recommendation for curved hexes.
While the dyneema slings on the Wild Country hexes are nice, they have some disadvantages... ex: you have to hold the head to place it, making them harder to get into deeper placements and those above your head.
A.w
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jude
Sep 9, 2003, 12:32 AM
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Thanks for the help. What about slung v wired? If you don't like the wires, can you just cut them and sling them with perlon?
Jude 8)
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ptone
Sep 9, 2003, 1:58 AM
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I like using hexes. They are like great honking cowbells though!
I find the curved wedge in a bit more like nuts, and with dyneema or cord it's harder to get em out, so I only use curved on the biggest (WC rockcentrics 8 and 9) and straight for the rest.
I don't know about cutting the wire--check the hole it goes thru to see if you could use it for a bigger diameter (ie cord or web) for sure...
Using old straight sides especially, my placements often aren't jammed super tight, so I like dyneema best, cause it is so slinky and rope movement doesn't affect things as much. I haven't played with the wired ones much, but that's what I'd ask.
peace
-p
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drkodos
Sep 9, 2003, 2:04 AM
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I bet you guys like using rotary phones, eh?
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geezergecko
Sep 9, 2003, 1:52 PM
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In reply to: I bet you guys like using rotary phones, eh? |
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mustclimb69
Sep 9, 2003, 2:47 PM
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Cruved hexes "roll" into position better thus making them more stable and easier to place
Metolious is my set love em'
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braon
Sep 18, 2003, 6:13 AM
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I always thought all hexes sounded the same hanging over the porch as a wind chime. Guess I was wrong. :wink:
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ecowain
Sep 18, 2003, 6:40 AM
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Well, if you're fussed about sounding like a cowbell (not that there's anything wrong with that, I do), you could always try the poly hexes that have been out in australia for some time. I don't know if they've made it to the US yet though.
AFAIK, they are available in sizes 8-11. The same company also makes poly nuts (3 sizes, and only in sizes equal to BD #13 and above). I have one of the nuts, and like it. A friend has the hexes.
They come in lots of snazzy colours, are light, and don't clank.
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