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elrojobdugs


Sep 9, 2003, 4:01 AM
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the 12s --> or higher
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i was just wondering for those members out there who can lead .12 or higher... how long that you have been climbing...???

i can pretty much lead the .12s but it gets a little mental and i have a hard time... plus ive been climbing for only a year and im sure future experience will help.

-dugs


kalcario


Sep 9, 2003, 4:08 AM
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29 years, age 43, pointed 13b last year


Partner camhead


Sep 9, 2003, 4:24 AM
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first climbed about four years ago, been at it seriously for nearly three, first redpointed .12s like a year ago, just barely started onsighting them (well, one).


alwaysforward


Sep 9, 2003, 4:24 AM
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In reply to:
can anyone help me i can't control the spray!!

-dugs
In reply to:
spraying is the best part of climbing

Just thought that needed to be dealth with. But congrats on your sick sends.


ptone


Sep 9, 2003, 4:44 AM
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camhead wrote

I don't know...ah what the hell, a little squirt anyhow....

alwaysforward wrote

Ohnooo, stop it you guys, Stop it! Eeewwwww--now you got it on me! No fair, I'm telling...


ptone
probably just wrote himself off....


:wink:
p


lilred


Sep 9, 2003, 5:10 AM
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SPRAY!!!!!

i've been climbing for 2 weeksh and i jusht redpointed my firsht 13.f yeshterday!!!

~giggle~


elrojobdugs


Sep 9, 2003, 4:54 PM
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sweet dude, i just finished a comp and was wondering what the average progress is of some one who climbs on a regular basis, since everyone i climb with started when i did

just a question and i wasnt spraying or maybe someones just jealous


norskagent


Sep 9, 2003, 4:59 PM
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yea I'm jealous - I wish I started climbing a year ago.


mreardon


Sep 9, 2003, 5:20 PM
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Feel like a full-on spraylord answering these questions....

Started climbing 15 years ago, was onsighting Joshua Tree 5.12s beginning of second year. Injuries stopped me for a while (rotator cuff), finally got back in. Been climbing steadily for the last 7 years (with two 6 month periods off) and depending on the mood/season, regularly jump on 12 trad, 13 sport, and some harder boulder problems.


clandestino


Sep 9, 2003, 5:39 PM
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I train people ... and this is my experience with a progress curve:
provided one is realy into it (climbing),has flexibility and focus:
6 month 10c OS/ 11b RP
13 month 11c OC/ 12b RP
26 mont 12a OS/ 12d RP / 13b YoYo .....
Untill this point there is no real need for a strengh training, i see
people(women & men) doing this curve and still not beeing able to do more then 4 pull-ups in a row(full hand on super hold).....
But it requires climbing 4-5 times a week ... 90%outside ....all those
26 moons.....


longalong


Sep 9, 2003, 5:59 PM
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In reply to:
i just finished a comp and was wondering what the average progress is of some one who climbs on a regular basis, since everyone i climb with started when i did

Please tell me that you aren't calling yourself a 5.12 climber because you pulled on a plastic 12 in a comp. If so you are not only a tool.....you're the effing toolshed.


elrojobdugs


Sep 9, 2003, 9:58 PM
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i just returned from the red where i onsighted two 12as

this was an indoor bouldering comp deusch


photon


Sep 10, 2003, 4:42 PM
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which .12's at the Red did you onsite


chitlinsconcarne


Sep 10, 2003, 4:51 PM
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Took me 20 years to get my first 12, I'm a real slow learner.

..course, it was rattley fingers, 1200 ft. off the deck w/wind so loud that it sounded like a freight train..., plus I had a nasty case of bleeding 'roids and a painfully swollen liver from goozling cheap whiskey like it was water...


crazygirl


Sep 10, 2003, 5:36 PM
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really? it took me two months. :wink:


Partner philbox
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Sep 10, 2003, 11:42 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
i just finished a comp and was wondering what the average progress is of some one who climbs on a regular basis, since everyone i climb with started when i did

Please tell me that you aren't calling yourself a 5.12 climber because you pulled on a plastic 12 in a comp. If so you are not only a tool.....you're the effing toolshed.

longalong is my new hero. That is too funny dude. :lol: :lol:


bandycoot


Sep 10, 2003, 11:54 PM
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Took me 3 years to get a couple 5.12 boulder problems. They're not routes, but I'm sure if I had projected sport routes with the same tenacity I would have had them. Injuries keep me down when it comes to the grades though, my finger tendons are weak so now I'm primarily a trad climber and focus on that.


tenn_dawg


Sep 11, 2003, 1:21 AM
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In reply to:
Took me 20 years to get my first 12, I'm a real slow learner.

..course, it was rattley fingers, 1200 ft. off the deck w/wind so loud that it sounded like a freight train..., plus I had a nasty case of bleeding 'roids and a painfully swollen liver from goozling cheap whiskey like it was water...

Hahahahah!!!!!!11

Finally, a PROUD post in this thread. Screw the Gym rats, THIS is what it's all about.

Travis


elrojobdugs


Sep 11, 2003, 1:29 AM
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over on left flank... too many puppies and wild, yet tasty

im sure they could be 11s by other ratings

i wasnt trying to make a spraying contest, ive just seen the stuff some of the people can do at the local gym and instead of being frank and asking them how long theyve climbed for, im asking the people of rc.com... because i thought id get more answers and its easier to talk without doing it directly to someones face

-Dugs


alpnclmbr1


Sep 11, 2003, 1:58 AM
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As far as the lack of responses to your question, there is a well established policy on this site that it is frowned upon to "spray"

As you got "wild but tasty" I would recommend the following as being a similar difficulty although a little more sustained. You could OS any of the following.

"Check your grip" at drive by
"Gung ho" and "tissue tigers" at military
"mercy the huff" at the left flank

And your way ahead of the normal ability curve.


elrojobdugs


Sep 11, 2003, 2:06 AM
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it was my mistake to ask people how long it took them to climb what they do... it was rude

the reason i asked was i feel like im bottoming out at high 11s and that to go any further in ability it will be quite awhile... i have no problem with this, that it why i asked

thanks though for the advice on routes


alpnclmbr1


Sep 11, 2003, 3:22 AM
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In reply to:
it was my mistake to ask people how long it took them to climb what they do... it was rude

No it wasn't.

Dude if you can onsight 12- at the red you can climb just about anything there.
project something like bare metal teen (it's not 12a), reliquary or the mule(easy 12c's),harvest 12d(13 in the guide), table of colors (13a version start off mercy),


riceplate


Sep 11, 2003, 3:53 AM
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these numbers remind me of math class. I hated math.

however, I'd like to know more about lil' red's firebush

:shock:


on_sight_man


Sep 11, 2003, 4:02 AM
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In reply to:
it was my mistake to ask people how long it took them to climb what they do... it was rude

the reason i asked was i feel like im bottoming out at high 11s and that to go any further in ability it will be quite awhile... i have no problem with this, that it why i asked

If you weren't trying to spray, you weren't spraying so don't apologize.

I know what you mean. I've been climbing now for 5 years and feel like I'm topping out for the last couple of years at mid to hard elevens also. It's frustrating, but what I keep thinking is that at SOME point, I figure my climbing will probably jump up a level again. Especially if I just keep climbing a lot (4 times a week), get strong, and keep really internalizing techniques.

PS: I'm an unrepentant grade grubber. The grade is another reward for the work. I love the movement and yada yada of course. It's a little bit like business people. They'll tell you they do it because of the fun, and the work, and the people, and they're not lying at all, but it wouldn't be the same without the money to "judge" their success also.


daggerx


Sep 11, 2003, 4:23 AM
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I have been climbing around 10years. I am very confy on 12 and 13's hope to get a wack at a 14er soon.

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