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bclimbin
Sep 13, 2003, 10:46 PM
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Registered: Sep 6, 2003
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I've decided to spend a little money and start getting some Trad gear to play with. Mostly I top rope (and have all the basic gear/ropes for TR) but I thought I'd like to start learning some sport/lead climbing, placing gear, making TR anchors w/ pro, that sort of stuff.
So here's what I came up w/
ABC Huevos 4-13 $50
Rockcentrics slung 3-9 $72
Empire Robots 1-5 $140
Camp Wire gate draws 6 $60
Trango Wire gate biners 2 $9
Trango Locking D biners 4 $23
BD Oval biners 8 $36
Nut tool $9
Adds up to about $400
For slings I'm going to use 11/16 webbing and tie my own. For a gear sling I'm planning on sewing one out of 2 inch webbing.
I'm just starting out so not really interested in Camalots ($$$) or a set of Aliens (yet, but probably next on my list). I'll be climbing around Boulder Canyon / Eldo areas in Colorado. I've looked at other racks around here and the gear seems to span the range. Mostly I want to place stuff while TR or sport climbing, learn what holds and what doesn't. Not looking to get all top of the line stuff, but I don't want to have something fail on me.
I considered some tri cams but figured I'd really end up going to slcd backed up w/ hexes and nuts.
Any thoughts ?
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freudian
Sep 14, 2003, 12:55 AM
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Registered: Sep 23, 2002
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My Thoughts:
When I starting getting lead gear, I got:
Quickdraws (3, then 3 more then 6 more) so I could at least sport lead. Next I spent some time collecting 2 full sets of 13 OP Scalloped Nuts. Passive Pro placements are important and low costing. Once you've learned passive placements, go for cams for those spots nuts wont work. After I had lotsa cams, I decided to try some Camp Tri Cams. After that, I got one #3 Hexcentric. I have yet to place the hex.
Tri Cams are great. I find they are "Magic", meaning that if your trying to stick a nut and it wont work, you try a cam and that just won't work well, or you wanna keep your cams incase you really need them higher up... or you already ran outta cams and your 3/4 of the way up the route... you turn to your small collection of Tri Cams. They fit where a nut wont and also can be as good as a cam or maybe a cam won't work but the tricam will.
Bottom line is, you should at least get one pink tricam. They are great. I've mostly used them in shallow horizontals.
In reply to: I considered some tri cams but figured I'd really end up going to slcd backed up w/ hexes and nuts. Any thoughts ? |
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one900johnnyk
Sep 14, 2003, 2:30 AM
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buy sewn slings and more stoppers and a set of 3cu's
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beckerw
Sep 14, 2003, 4:02 AM
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for a first trad rack,
i would buy a set of nuts small to big. (dmm nuts are brilliant in eldo) bout $80, 6X24" slings with biner du jour, and 1-3 (or 4 if you are spendy) camalots. this rack will get you up anything that you might learn on in eldo. buy a cordalette and cleaning tool of course. buy the goodstuff; it is good stuff for a reasonl! don't spend money on aliens until you can place bomber nuts. get some quickdraws as well.
have fun. eldo rocks
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slcliffdiver
Sep 16, 2003, 12:23 AM
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For future reference make sure you don't use the draws for trad until you really know what you are doing and have some milage under your belt. They can pop pieces out of the rock under some circumstances easier than other types of slings. For trad short open sewn slings are generaly, safer, lighter and more versitile.
I second small tri-cams get at least the first 2 sizes more if you're dealing with highly featured rock.
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dlintz
Sep 16, 2003, 12:59 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
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Definitely get the tri's. You'll find them very useful in Eldo, even more so on the Flatirons. You hear a lot of "get the 3 smallest ones" I say get the 5 smallest ones and practice practice practice.
If you want to tie your own slings go for it. I think sewn slings are the way to go, no bulky knots especially when tripling them up.
Enjoy. Eldo's got it all.
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brotchbrody
Sep 16, 2003, 1:06 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2003
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In reply to: for a first trad rack, , and 1-3 (or 4 if you are spendy) camalots. have fun. eldo rocks
I 2nd getting camalots. There are only 4 types of cams: Aliens, DMMs, Friends, and Camalots.
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ropeburn
Sep 16, 2003, 1:18 AM
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Registered: May 19, 2003
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In reply to: I 2nd getting camalots. There are only 4 types of cams: Aliens, DMMs, Friends, and Camalots.
Bah.
I have rock emp's and I like em just fine. They hold falls, they are made well, I'm poor, and their alot cheaper than other cams. One caveat, don't buy the larger ones, the inner lobes are two close together so there is a larger chance of walking. Get 1-3 rock emp's and fill the larger sizes with something else, DMM's 3 & 4 maybe.
Have fun
It just gets better.
:mrgreen:
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petsfed
Sep 16, 2003, 3:37 AM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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For eldo? Should be able to do a lot without cams. Attach yourself to an experienced trad leader and learn what they use and what you like. Don't buy any cams unless you're sure that's what you want. After all, 5 cams is a hell of a deal for $150, but if you don't like them, you'll still have to buy more.
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ptone
Sep 16, 2003, 3:46 AM
Post #10 of 14
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Registered: Mar 5, 2003
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I started passive only, still like hexes alot, use them all the time.
Ditto on the pink tri cam--I didn't think much about it before, but it is a great little piece to have, and works great for odd spots.
I agree with not using sport draws for trad-- unless you're climbing the perfect vertical straight line splitter, you are going to have placements that aren't perfectly in line with your route, or placements deeper in a crack or shallow and delicate--sport draws are stiff and often even have rubber tighteners on the rope end for easier clipping. This can increase rope drag and even (when you're pulling at the rope) wiggle your gear and cause it to move--cams walk, hexes can even lift out--and rendering your placements unsafe.
My advice would be to skip tying your own slings for now...buy some long pieces of webbing for anchors, for sure, but consider: sewn slings are cheap and bomber--get some 60cms, you can double or triple them to make them short like sport draws, or open them to get more play to protect placements and lessen rope drag.
Happy Climbing!
peace,
-p
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punk
Sep 16, 2003, 5:37 AM
Post #11 of 14
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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In reply to: I've decided to spend a little money and start getting some Trad gear to play with. Mostly I top rope (and have all the basic gear/ropes for TR) but I thought I'd like to start learning some sport/lead climbing, placing gear, making TR anchors w/ pro, that sort of stuff. So here's what I came up w/ ABC Huevos 4-13 $50 Rockcentrics slung 3-9 $72 Empire Robots 1-5 $140 Camp Wire gate draws 6 $60 Trango Wire gate biners 2 $9 Trango Locking D biners 4 $23 BD Oval biners 8 $36 Nut tool $9 Adds up to about $400 For slings I'm going to use 11/16 webbing and tie my own. For a gear sling I'm planning on sewing one out of 2 inch webbing. I'm just starting out so not really interested in Camalots ($$$) or a set of Aliens (yet, but probably next on my list). I'll be climbing around Boulder Canyon / Eldo areas in Colorado. I've looked at other racks around here and the gear seems to span the range. Mostly I want to place stuff while TR or sport climbing, learn what holds and what doesn't. Not looking to get all top of the line stuff, but I don't want to have something fail on me. I considered some tri cams but figured I'd really end up going to slcd backed up w/ hexes and nuts. Any thoughts ?
you got it all now just go climbing....what should we say to those guys from the 50's :roll: :roll:
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bclimbin
Sep 16, 2003, 1:02 PM
Post #12 of 14
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Registered: Sep 6, 2003
Posts: 16
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bit the bullet placed my order. I didn't get the tri-cams though I'm thinking they should be on my short list (maybe I'll ask santa!!).
I did take the advice and picked up some sewn runners in 12 and 24 inch. For 48" it seems there's enough slop already that a tied runner ought to be fine.
I got the draws specifically for sport climbing but thanks for the heads up about not to use them for trad. Hadn't planned on it but always interested in hearing the voice of experience.
So now I'm eagerly waiting by the mailbox .....
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tendertendons
Sep 16, 2003, 3:02 PM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Sep 11, 2003
Posts: 47
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I concur with the others here. Don't use sport quickdraws on trad. You'll unseat passive pro and walk cams. Rather, build yourself some quickdraws out of supple 60 cm sewn slings with a straight gate biner on the anchor end and a wire gate on the rope end. Also, watch out with regards to the wire biners you are using. When you extend a double-backed sling to shoulder length with some biner designs the tight loop can open the biner.
This is the case with the J gate Omegas I'm using. So now I have to be extra careful that the tight end is on the anchor biner. Also, don't buy into the hype that because BD Camalots have a greater range you have to carry fewer. BS! You still have to carry the same # to get up the pitch. I have 1 BD Camalot (#3) and the rest of my cams are Metolius Power Cams. They have indestructible triggers and don't walk as much as the Camalots (probably because of the single axle). In reality, any correctly placed free cam should arrest your fall :) but an incorrectly placed cam (no matter how trick) will not :shock: .
Your mileage may vary...
:wink:
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ptone
Sep 19, 2003, 7:51 PM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Mar 5, 2003
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Here's a quick tip, since you already bought sport-style draws...
I started only leading sport so when I started getting gear, I ended up with a bunch of sport draws, stiff and short and pinched tight on the rope side.
When I got into trad I just got a bunch of dyneema slings, mainly 60 cm, but some longer and shorter, and replaced the bones on my draws. It takes no time at all to switch around, and slings are cheap, just around $1.50 to $5, and totally worth it. It's like I've got two sets of draws.
Just remember to use the bent gates for the rope ends.
Eventually if you stick with trad, you will end up with more equipment than you can climb with, but in the beginning this is a cheap way to make it all work!
peace,
p
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