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Next stage of evolution in Shoes......
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gear_junkie


Sep 26, 2003, 5:07 PM
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Next stage of evolution in Shoes......
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Pricing :shock:

With new companies coming out (Madrock, Triop, Tenaya, etc...), the price of shoes will be going down. It's great to see you can get a great pair of shoes for under a $100. Lets take for example the Madrock Mugens. Just as good (if not better) than the Anasazi Velcros. Pretty much the same shoe, except the heel fits better in the Mugens.

Price for the Mugens $89

Price for the Anasazi Velcors $139.

And don't tell me the Mugens wear out faster. So what, $30 for a resole and I am still saving money. I will eventually have to the the Anasazi's resoled to.

Its great to see new companies not sticking it to the general public.

5.10, La Sportiva, Boreal.... Listen up. Follow suit, or you may find yourself wondering what has happen in about 2-3 years when every kids is wearing a pair of MadRocks.

P.S. I don't work for a shoe company. I am just an average climber who looks to the the best buy for his money.


climbhigh23


Sep 26, 2003, 5:15 PM
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In reply to:
Pricing :shock:
Lets take for example the Madrock Mugens. Just as good (if not better) than the Anasazi Velcros. Pretty much the same shoe, except the heel fits better in the Mugens.

i agree on the price issue, and the fit of the heel, but i have to disagree with the above statement. i own both the anasazi velcro, and the mugen. although i haven't climbed all that much in the mugens yet (just got them a couple of weeks ago when i sent my anasazis to be resoled), i think the anasazis perform much better. the mugens edge just as well as the anazazis, but don't seem to smear nearly as well. maybe it's just me, but that's my 2 cents....


climb_plastic


Sep 27, 2003, 7:34 AM
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Actually, Mugens are $79.

I have the Anasazi. I got them for $85 on Sportextreme with $17 shipping. I really like them but that's about as much as I would pay for them especially since I bought the Mad Rock Flash for $69. When this pair dies I definitely wouldn't buy another pair for $140. I haven't climbed anything in the Anasazi's that I don't think I could climb in the Flash (and it's not because I don't climb hard) so why should I pay that much more? Don't say quality because the Anasazi are wearing just the same as the Flash's.

I've seen Mad Rocks all over the gym lately especially since REI started carrying them. When you get a pair and use them at the gym be prepared to answer a lot of questions about them. All the people I talk to are seriously considering buying them for their next pair.


climbsomething


Sep 27, 2003, 10:23 AM
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Ha, I thought this would be about Evolv shoes ;)

They're pretty affordable too ($89-$115) and are coming out with two new women's models soon. woohoo!


climb_plastic


Sep 28, 2003, 3:34 AM
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I don't know anyone that has evolv shoes and never seen any yet. My first thought was that they weren't cheap enough to try.


collegekid


Sep 28, 2003, 4:15 AM
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yep...i agree.

I foresee 5.10 and all the other brands dropping their prices, extremely quickly, otherwise they WILL be going down (at least, they won't be seeing the same profits as the other companies). How could anyone go into REI, see a pair of shoes for half the price of the others, and still buy the others, especially when the shoes perform just as well? In fact, i would go as far as to say my hooker zips perform better than my anasazis and moccasyms.


climbhigherthanenough


Sep 28, 2003, 4:28 AM
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My next pair of shoes will be madrock i look and see 90 bucks cdn and im like hmm 150 or 90 for pretty much the same shoes


dairyfarmer


Sep 28, 2003, 1:04 PM
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I see prices falling also in responce to a supply and demand scenario. Having climbed for over 30 yaers I have observed in the past how cyclical participation in the sport can be, ebbing and flowing over the decades. It's at a high point now, in part I believe to the advent of gyms in cities and colleges. However as the majority of particpants age and take on other obligations (jobs, families) unless others step in to fill the void, the market will grow smaller causing a drop in demand and resulting lower prices for all equipment, not just shoes. Also the fact that manufactuing in emerging nations can produce and export to the west for lower prices then western producers can or will sell for. Just my thoughts on demographics and the free market.
Dick


Partner camhead


Sep 28, 2003, 4:04 PM
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yeah, but Madrock duzzn't sponsor oh-so-cool climbers like Graham, Sharma, Rands, Caldwell, etc.! the pro's wear 5.10; they must be better!


pancaketom


Sep 28, 2003, 5:47 PM
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Maybe now the shoe companies will stop sticking it to the north american customers and bring the shoe prices down on par with those in Europe (where my friend could buy a pair cheaper in a grocery store than he could pro-deal them here). Hopefully the new companies won't be bullied out of the market as the internet ones were.


neeshman


Sep 28, 2003, 6:48 PM
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Man. I have to agree with the majority here. I bought a pair of Pheonix's back in march and they are still goin strong too this day. They can do everything that my 5.10's can do (and oh yeah... they smear like a champion! :D :D :D ) And for the price. Who cares if they are not 5.10 or La Sportiva???


joeschmoe


Sep 28, 2003, 10:24 PM
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I don't know anyone that has evolv shoes and never seen any yet. My first thought was that they weren't cheap enough to try.

evolv's rock. bought a pair of the kaos and i'd get their slippers to replace my current pair if i had the cash. the have the absolute best customer service i've ever run across in an online company.


bergo


Sep 28, 2003, 11:09 PM
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My next pair of shoes will be definitely Madrock, that is a fact. I'm still thinking in the right model. What do you think, the Hooker, the Mugen, the Shark (wich I think is the most "nice looking" if aestethics has to be a matter), the Flash or wait until December 2003 and see what happens with the Loco model?


climbalon


Sep 28, 2003, 11:58 PM
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Hey i have a good idea. Buy the madrocks which are crappy and will fall apart, and then too make up for your crappy shoes buy the madrock finger so you can stick those "troublesome" slopes and crimps!!! 'Cept not... don't be a tool, buy evolve.

~Alon


rockclimbr


Sep 29, 2003, 12:21 AM
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i have only owned two pairs of shoes...boreal zens, and mad rock hooker zips. I would have to say that im dissapointed in the money i paid for the zens, since i put a hole in the toe box in a month and a half. My mad rocks have stood up to my abuse and have performed better..and for a cheaper price then what i paid at REI for my zens. Im defeinetely going with madrocks again, and not just for the price, but that is in the end, the defining factor.


ejclimb


Sep 29, 2003, 12:45 AM
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I dont care wat ppl say, the mugens suck, after 4 months of hard climbing in them i can fold them in half vertically and horizontally. They have no support no midsole support, and just flat out arent stiff enough. I can make the toe touch the heel effortlessly in many different ways. Oh yea that dual hardness crap, it was chewed up within 2 months of only INDOOR climbing. Maybe the big companys will lower their price, hopefully they will, but wether they do or dont, 5.10 for now and forever!


climb_plastic


Sep 29, 2003, 3:49 AM
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So if the sole was chewed up within 2 months how did you climb hard in them for 4 months?


brianthew


Sep 29, 2003, 3:56 AM
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and just flat out arent stiff enough

I'd concur with this, but perhaps it's just cuz I'm used to my Miuras. When I tried on the Mugen, the simple lack of midsole was disturbing. Didn't like them. Those of you who like total flexibility (all you Moccasym wearers and such) might go for them, but not for me.


fallsfromboulders


Sep 29, 2003, 4:25 AM
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anyone know the difference between slippers and a velcro shoe? besides the fact that slippers slide on.


climb_plastic


Sep 29, 2003, 5:53 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I don't know anyone that has evolv shoes and never seen any yet. My first thought was that they weren't cheap enough to try.

evolv's rock. bought a pair of the kaos and i'd get their slippers to replace my current pair if i had the cash. the have the absolute best customer service i've ever run across in an online company.

I didn't mean to put down Evolv. Never tried it or know anyone that has so I can't say they're good or that they suck. They're probably pretty good but I didn't think they were very low cost alternative. Their slipper is $89 which isn't much cheaper than the moccassym and their top of line shoe at $115 isn't cheap at all. At that price I'd rather get a pair of Zlippers or pay the extra for Annasazi. I wouldn't get Mad Rocks if they cost more either. If the Flash wasn't only $69 I would never have bought it.


climbalon


Sep 29, 2003, 5:57 AM
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Why spend 135 for anasazis when you can get a better shoe for 115, you confuse me. Evovles rock man. And from what I've been told their rubber is comparable if not better than stealth. Gasp yes i said it, better than stealth.

~Alon


climbthedj


Sep 29, 2003, 6:18 AM
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Or you can go to REI and get a pair of La Sportiva Muiras for 99 bucks! Yeah, I was in disbelief myself, but I got some new shoes that I'm itching to try. Even the nice fella at REI wasn't sure why they were going for so low. Oh well, I beat REI for once.


climb_plastic


Sep 29, 2003, 7:32 AM
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Why spend 135 for anasazis when you can get a better shoe for 115, you confuse me.

~Alon

Better than Anasazi. That's a tough sell. If I knew for sure that it was better then I'd get it. To me it's just a risk I'm not willing to take at $115. Plus if you want it to edge better I'm guessing you have to get the stiffer midsole which is $10 extra. Also, you can't get it at a store and try it out. Since you have to order them you'd rathers well just order the Anasazi from sportextreme.com and get it delivered for $103 w/shipping.


gear_junkie


Sep 30, 2003, 7:01 PM
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If you climb at a gym on a regular basis, see what everyone is wearing. Or I should say, see what everyone is buying for a new pair of shoes. Its not Sportiva, Boreal, of Five-Ten.

Its great to see quaility shoes at quality prices.

Has anyone notice that the prices of harnesses have come down. You can get a quality harness for $45-$60 now.


crotch


Sep 30, 2003, 7:33 PM
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[quote="climbalon"Evovles rock man.
Only if they fit your foot. I tried some on but they were WAY uncomfortable. My feet fit well in Katanas.

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