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telesteve
Oct 17, 2003, 4:51 AM
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Buying my first rope and looking at a few possibilities:
I want something pretty standard, looking at the mountain gear catalogue in 10.5 widths there is BlueWater,Beal and PMI ropes - Thinking about Beal Top Gun. Also, I think Standard (vs. Dry) is best, but does this make sense? I'm not planning any winter or wet weather climbing, yet... When that comes along, I'll be looking for new ropes anyway. Rope should be for pretty general use, but best for mid-range sport climbing. Also, can I be sure that the rope hasn't been sitting around awhile if I buy from MGear?
Would welcome any suggestions: but only serious ones, please.
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alpnclmbr1
Oct 17, 2003, 5:05 AM
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10.5 sounds right.
the most important spec is impact force for a lead rope
for the most part buy the cheapest major brand rope you can find
if your a member of rei there is a 15$ off coupon in the current catalogue
mammut as a rei sale rope and beal (for low impact force) are my fav's.
if you can get a dry rope for the same price buy it as they can last longer sometimes.
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telesteve
Oct 17, 2003, 12:04 PM
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Thanks,
I guess I can boil my query down to two questions.
They are:
1. Does a Dry rope handle much differently from a regular rope? (i.e. harder to tie knots, slicker, etc...)
2. Should I be worried if the rope has been sitting on a shelf somewhere for a long period of time before I buy it? (I want to have a good knowledge of ALL the rope's history, I'm pretty anal about gear).
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one900johnnyk
Oct 17, 2003, 12:11 PM
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look on the internet. let me suggest gearexpress.com .... at least 10.2 mm thickness and pay the extra ten bucks for 60m rope. i just got a sterling from them for 99 bucks and it came w/a cordellete and rope wash. it's worth your time to shop around..
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gblauer
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Oct 17, 2003, 12:31 PM
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I bought my first rope from EMS it was a mamut. It was on sale for $89 and came with a rope bag. It is a 10.5, 60M rope. It was a great deal. Take your time, shop around (as suggested earlier) to find a deal.
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cerikpete
Oct 17, 2003, 12:49 PM
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Highly recommend at least 10mm and at least 60m. For a general purpose rope these are the best stats, since weight, etc aren't an issue.
Dry rope feels a little bit slicker, and is generally more expensive.
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joegoesup
Oct 17, 2003, 5:09 PM
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I like the Lanex ropes. They are durable and inexpensive.
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robmcc
Oct 17, 2003, 5:20 PM
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In reply to: Dry rope feels a little bit slicker, and is generally more expensive.
I quit buying dry ropes so I could save a few bucks. Ever since I've been rained on repeatedly, ended up on climbs with water running down them, etc. But no, I don't need a dry rope. "I'm not going to climb in the rain!" I tell myself.
HA!
I'd say get the dry rope but for the fact that I've heard the dry treatment isn't that durable anyway.
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petsfed
Oct 17, 2003, 5:31 PM
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Not climbing in wet conditions? Dry isn't worth it.
Not doing super hard/fast stuff? 10.5 is about perfect.
As a beginner, you're going to do a lot of toproping, so a 60m is useful.
I don't like Beal ropes, but that's because they're a BD subsidiary now. The last good BD rope I saw had "Chouinard" printed on it. Most all ropes are pretty good, look for what's within your budget. When you move up to a second rope, you'll know what's good and what isn't for you.
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stick233
Oct 17, 2003, 5:33 PM
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don't pay over 100 bucks... rei basic rope, lanex good ropes, cheap
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tallelk
Oct 17, 2003, 5:33 PM
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I personally own that Beal rope you described. I think it is a great rope for leading. Not that good for top roping though, stretches too much. As for as dry treated or not, I own a Beal dry rope as well, as far as knotting ability no difference, the rope manages the same, but is nice if you get caught in the rain, it does not soak up as much water. If you only climb on beatifull sunny days, then the dry treatment is useless.
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climber_osu
Oct 17, 2003, 5:40 PM
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I would go with a 60 meter 10.5 to start with. My experience with dry treating is that it seems to make the rope last longer especially in sandy conditions and it doesn't cost that much more. I like my maxim rope the best of all I have used and its a good deal through liberty mountain.
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poppasmearf
Oct 17, 2003, 5:55 PM
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Dont worry about the ropes history before you bought. First of all there is no way you will ever really know and secondly i would guess most retailers dont have their ropes (or any gear for that matter) sitting out in the sun or in moist environments. Dont be too anal here cheif... :wink:
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telesteve
Oct 17, 2003, 6:42 PM
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Thanks all, :D
Just bought my rope: Edelweiss 10.5 X 60 M, Dry Rope, 8.5Kn impact force, 11 fall. ($109.95 from GearExpress)
Looks like they just got this rope in today anyway, but thanks poppasmearf - Guess any big retailer will keep their gear moving.
I'm sure next time I buy a rope I'll know more, it's SOP.
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meataxe
Oct 17, 2003, 10:20 PM
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This looks like a good deal if you are in Canada...
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=667743&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=575415&bmUID=1066429110897
$99CDN = $75US
Lower stretch is good for toproping and it is an Edelrid... a good brand.
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pico23
Oct 18, 2003, 7:13 AM
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In reply to: Also, can I be sure that the rope hasn't been sitting around awhile if I buy from MGear? Would welcome any suggestions: but only serious ones, please.
All ropes come marked with a date of manufacture. Actually all gear does. It's sometimes in a code but it's stamped on the gear. With ropes it comes on the packaging as well as the rope ends (sometimes).
Since your new your skepticism/caution is understandable but your highly unlikely to receive a rope from any retailer dealing with climbing gear that was improperly stored. Generally retailers don't stock a lot of ropes and what they do is on the showroom floor so it's not sitting in some acid bath in the back. Mountain gear being a catalog probably has more ropes in stock at any given time but I'm sure the turnover is pretty high or they'd clearance the ropes to move them.
Even the manufacturers give the rope a unproven 5-10 year shelf life from manufacture date so more than likely you will never come across a rope that old purchased from any retailer.
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pico23
Oct 18, 2003, 7:17 AM
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In reply to: I like the Lanex ropes. They are durable and inexpensive.
This guy is self admitted to be anal about gear. He isn't buying Lanex. That said my lanex ropes are great so after you blow a ton on your first rope go with lanex the next time around.
Despite conditioning otherwise price isn't indicative of quality in all cases
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moss1956
Oct 18, 2003, 1:10 PM
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It also depends on where you are climbing. If you are climbing in Iowa say... there is no reason to buy a 60 meter rope. Come to think of it there is no reason to buy a 50 meter rope. Buy a short rope. By short I mean something about 140 feet long, that is remaindered by the rope manufacturers because it comes from the end of a length of rope and it is too short to cut out a 50m or 60m rope. The advantages are that it will be cheap, and rope management will be easier. Thats a big plus for a beginner. After you get comfortable handling a rope, then you can spend some money on a nice rope. Furthermore you will have some sense of what you should get. Oh yeah, make sure the short rope you buy is dynamic, and get a 10.5mm because it will handle more abuse.
Periodically run the rope through your hands, handling it to feel for damage to sheath, flat spots or soft spots in the core. If you are leading, the rope will generally take the most abuse at the ends. If a section near the end gets damaged... cut it off. You can do that with a kitchen knife, then take a cigarette lighter to the end and melt it so it doesn't get frayed. Finally take some climbing tape and tape around the end so you will be able to see the end when the rope is in a pile. If you are top roping the ropes tends to wear out in the middle where it goes through the anchors. If its gets flat or soft there, use the ends to make a cordelette and buy a new rope.
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