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riceplate
Oct 25, 2003, 7:03 AM
Post #51 of 57
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Registered: Jul 14, 2003
Posts: 92
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In reply to: Is it a bigger deal for someone to send a 5.14 in the 80's in their (what late 20s?) when 5.14 was the pinnacle of what everyone was doing, or to onsight a 5.14a in the 90's in their teens when people were pushing 5.14c/d? Sort of a silly question, but I think the former pushes more limits than the latter.
explain to me again how redpointing a .14a pushes limits more than onsighting a .14a... Onsighting a 5.14 is leagues harder than redpointing one. Like a universe apart.
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stickclipper
Oct 25, 2003, 3:31 PM
Post #52 of 57
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Registered: May 3, 2003
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To set the record straight:
Lynn Hill was the first woman to redpoint 14a, Mass Critique...and there has been no woman to onsight or flash a 14a, because that route that Brown climbed in Spain, Hydrophobia, was subsequently downrated to 13d, since something like three or four Euros flashed or onsighted it as well...Consensus now NOT 14a.
Still, that's a hell of an effort for ANYONE!
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lou_dale
Oct 25, 2003, 4:14 PM
Post #53 of 57
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Registered: May 27, 2003
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i think anybody who climbs is hot - young/old/male/female - as long as they do it safely and are respectful towards all life.
the best climber in the world? in a previous article - a quote alex lowe comes to mind, and i agree - the best climber in the world is the one having the most fun.
life is good
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redpoint73
Oct 25, 2003, 4:17 PM
Post #54 of 57
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
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In reply to: In a way I think it's cool that people always talk about Lynn Hill as being hot, because IMO she's does not fit the typical stereotype of the "hot" woman that makes men drool...
Thats the thing about stereotypes -- they aren't always true.
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climboard
Oct 31, 2003, 3:36 PM
Post #55 of 57
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 503
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In reply to: To set the record straight: Lynn Hill was the first woman to redpoint 14a, Mass Critique...and there has been no woman to onsight or flash a 14a, because that route that Brown climbed in Spain, Hydrophobia, was subsequently downrated to 13d, since something like three or four Euros flashed or onsighted it as well...Consensus now NOT 14a. Still, that's a hell of an effort for ANYONE!
It was considered 14a when she onsighted it, therefore she has onsighted a 14a in my book.
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chossmonkey
Oct 31, 2003, 3:55 PM
Post #56 of 57
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: To set the record straight: Lynn Hill was the first woman to redpoint 14a, Mass Critique...and there has been no woman to onsight or flash a 14a, because that route that Brown climbed in Spain, Hydrophobia, was subsequently downrated to 13d, since something like three or four Euros flashed or onsighted it as well...Consensus now NOT 14a. Still, that's a hell of an effort for ANYONE! It was considered 14a when she onsighted it, therefore she has onsighted a 14a in my book.
Just because a route is rated 5.x doesn't mean a damn thing. Anyone can rate any route what ever they want. Following ascents confirm or deny the grading. Maybe it was 14b for Katie when she onsighted it. More likely it was a route that suited her perfectly and probably felt like 13c. None the less it is a very impressive accomplishment to onsight 13d. I think Lynn Hill has contributed far more to the sport so far. Katie still has plenty of time to keep raising the bar.
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climboard
Oct 31, 2003, 4:35 PM
Post #57 of 57
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
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In this case I believe the number does count from a historical perspective.
I believe Katie should be credited as the first woman to onsight 14a. If Mass Critique is downgraded at some future time are we going to say Lynn Hill WASN'T the first woman to climb 14a?
I don't think we should rewrite history like that.
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