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crimpman
Oct 30, 2003, 11:05 PM
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When I finally got my rope and all of my quickdraws, I always said I was going to take complete care of em. Couple weeks in I noticed my rope started to turn black. It was so bad when my partner and I belayed our chands basically turn charcoal black. I've washed now, and its clean, but what causes this? Is it from the metal of the quickdraws? Is there anyway I can prevent this?
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thegreytradster
Oct 30, 2003, 11:11 PM
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Some black is just the aluminum oxide from the gear. It's a normal occurance. Sounds like an extreme case though. Do you have any black anodized gear? or climb in an area with recent fire damage?
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caughtinside
Oct 30, 2003, 11:17 PM
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Some biners do it to your rope worse than others. Cheaper? Different brands? Older? I don't know...
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crimpman
Oct 30, 2003, 11:53 PM
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Yeah i guess it must be from the draws. I have the black diamond quick wire. I'm not around any burned stuff like charcoal, or any black stuff for that matter. Can you like clean the biner or is just one of those things. Would it be bad to wrap tape around the bottom of the biner so the rope wouldn't hit the metal?
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tnjim
Oct 31, 2003, 12:06 AM
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Im not absolutely sure but i wouldnt wrap anything aroung the rope bearing part of the biner. Its machined a certain way to prevent drag but still give some sort of friction to help stop a fall. Also the tape might possibly damage your rope. What i would do is just wash your rope when it gets bad.
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whitefingers
Oct 31, 2003, 12:21 AM
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Yeah, wrap your draw biner with some athletic tape. This will most definately protect your rope and probably extend the life of your biner! I cant believe the manufacturers dont send product "pre taped". Looks like you might be able to patent something here :roll:
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deleted
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Oct 31, 2003, 1:34 AM
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crimpman --
don't do anything to your biners, and don't worry about your rope; what you're experiencing is perfectly normal. the black stuff is a combination of aluminum oxide from the biners, in combination with random filth.
yes, it'll turn your hands black. it's one way to tell the world you're a climber.
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edge
Oct 31, 2003, 1:37 AM
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^^^^^^
Listen to this man!
To the right people, black filth=skilled & sexy....
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one900johnnyk
Oct 31, 2003, 3:20 AM
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also if you thread your rope through older bolts, the rope can pick up a lot of shit from there when you pull it..
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skecthballer
Oct 31, 2003, 3:26 AM
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Do you have an atc-xp, that happend to my rope when my stupid friend use his atc-xp on it.
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the_pirate
Oct 31, 2003, 4:04 AM
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ok, mild thread hijack here....
Every time you go to make a clip, you pull up a length of rope, clench it between your teeth, and clip the draw/sling/whatever......
Your rope is covered with aluminum oxide.......
Aluminum oxide is known to be a cause of alzheimers disease......
Do climbers have a higher rate of affliction from alzheimers disease than non climbers???
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wlderdude
Oct 31, 2003, 4:06 AM
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Yes, the grey stuff is Al2O3 (aluminum oxide).
It is the abrasive of choice in most steel grinding aplications.
I have yet to hear any evidence that it is detrimental to your rope, but it sure gets your hands dirty.
When it gets bad is when you top rope a lot and lower.
Steel biners is the obvious solution. They weigh an awful lot, but the nylon braid of the rope won't wear off the oxide layer as fast.
Wash your rope frequently. This will help. (Duh)
My partner likes to wear belay gloves to keep his hands clean. I don't mind the grey stuff.
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bill_in_tokyo
Oct 31, 2003, 4:49 AM
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In reply to: Aluminum oxide is known to be a cause of alzheimers disease
I'd be interested in some peer-reviewed backup for this statement, if available. Anyone?
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fear
Oct 31, 2003, 4:55 AM
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High amounts of aluminum are found in the brains of deceased Alzheimers patients. This has led to the fear of Aluminum cookware, anti-perspirant, etc.
I plan to die long before it is a problem..... Although I've stopped snorting aluminum dust.
-Fear
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ronamick
Oct 31, 2003, 6:04 AM
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You have irreversible microfiber degradation in the core of your rope, and if you keep using it you are bound to die.
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ronamick
Oct 31, 2003, 6:05 AM
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We're not storing our gear in the chimney are we?
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coldclimb
Oct 31, 2003, 6:57 AM
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I love the black stuff. Definate sign that you really have been climbing. :D
And perfectly normal. Don't worry about it.
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freudian
Oct 31, 2003, 12:29 PM
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In reply to: crimpman -- yes, it'll turn your hands black. it's one way to tell the world you're a climber.
... or a dead giveaway that your a photocopier repairman!!
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crimpman
Nov 1, 2003, 3:49 AM
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Alright cool, I can't wait til my hands turn black again so I can show everyone! :wink: Now if only it would stop snowing....
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thehardnailer
Nov 1, 2003, 6:28 AM
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In reply to: Yeah, wrap your draw biner with some athletic tape. This will most definately protect your rope and probably extend the life of your biner! I cant believe the manufacturers dont send product "pre taped". Looks like you might be able to patent something here :roll: |
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thehardnailer
Nov 1, 2003, 6:31 AM
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In reply to: also if you thread your rope through older bolts, the rope can pick up a lot of s--- from there when you pull it..
Do you untie at each clip, thread you're rope thru, and then tie back in and continue? I know this sounds like i'm being a smart a**, and I guess I am, but you left the door wide open on that one.
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thehardnailer
Nov 1, 2003, 6:34 AM
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In reply to: You have irreversible microfiber degradation in the core of your rope, and if you keep using it you are bound to die. |
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matchand
Nov 1, 2003, 7:36 AM
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In reply to: So how in the hell do you thread you're rope thru bolt's??? Do you untie at each clip, thread you're rope thru, and then tie back in and continue? I know this sounds like i'm being a smart a**, and I guess I am, but you left the door wide open on that one.[
Actually, on a lot of climbs I've been on there are two bolts at the top where people will untie, thread the rope through, and then lower off it. Yeah, it's better to rappel, but a lot of people lower off these old bolts.
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tripperjm
Nov 1, 2003, 9:00 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: You have irreversible microfiber degradation in the core of your rope, and if you keep using it you are bound to die. The words of a genuine, un-deluted, idiot! Microfiber degredation??? The only thing degraded is this post.
You've just been trolled.... by a pro.
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brutusofwyde
Nov 3, 2003, 12:09 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Aluminum oxide is known to be a cause of alzheimers disease I'd be interested in some peer-reviewed backup for this statement, if available. Anyone?
Uhhh...
I don't remember...
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