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johnfromohio
Oct 24, 2003, 3:08 PM
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I am looking for places to boulder at on the east coast that is worthwhile for making a road trip. I am looking for overhanging steep problems, wouldnt mind crimps but dont like slopers that well. But I know of some great southern areas and a few places up north? Can anyone tell me their boulder area and whether the problems are mainly overhanging steep problems or face or slab runs.
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dredsovrn
Oct 24, 2003, 3:20 PM
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Go to the Gunks. Known for trad, but there are boulders all over the place. I think you could spend a few days just walking up and down the carriage road with a crash pad, and hit one problem after another.
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bumblie
Oct 24, 2003, 3:32 PM
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Now that the temps are dropping you might want to check out Rocktown, Ga.
Go to the Southeast climbers website for beta.
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madriver
Oct 24, 2003, 3:35 PM
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Coopers Rock, WVA...
Huge area with tons of problems. Rock is super gritty. Problems range from super high ball to overhung Vhard. Slab wall mono pockets to long traverse probs. Just about everthing is there. Mostly untapped...the area is huge....you can spend 3-4 days workin different sections
This website can help..
http://www.geocities.com/climberwvu/
bob
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supafreak
Oct 24, 2003, 3:48 PM
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Don't like Slopers? Normally I'd suggest going to Horse Pens in Alabama, but you'd leave there a slop-a-holic.
The sandstone at Rocktown is good, friction is good and there are many crimpy problems for your tendons' delight. Camping there is free and there is more than a life time of problems there.
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thinksinpictures
Oct 24, 2003, 4:27 PM
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Depending on how soon your planning on coming and how far north you're willing to travel, you might consider Pawtuckaway in NH. More boulders than you can shake a stick at, overhanging stuff, vertical stuff, slabs, all with a good selection of btoh crimps and slopers. But it's getting cold fast, so you better hurry!
P.S. I will probably get called a wuss by some for claiming that there is anything wrong with bouldering in the cold. You will probably find people bouldering up there all year long, blowtorches in hand. You will not find me, because they are right when they call me a wuss. I HATE the cold, so I'll be at the gym until April :wink:
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gravitytheory
Oct 24, 2003, 6:35 PM
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McAfee's knob, near Roanoke. Quoting Eric Horst: "This place is the Hueco Tanks of Virginia." Nuff Said.
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johnfromohio
Oct 24, 2003, 11:46 PM
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madriver
i go to coopers all the time, was there about 3 weeks ago with climbingbetty. Coopers is nice, but i dont think there is a huge quantity of overhanging problems but maybe i am wrong.
I am going to be going from spring until summer sometime for 2 weeks. I am thinking one trip to rock town GA or lilly obed boulders, and another one to rumney or NH, get some trekking down on my off days of climbing.
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pisceian
Oct 25, 2003, 12:14 AM
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In reply to: McAfee's knob, near Roanoke. Quoting Eric Horst: "This place is the Hueco Tanks of Virginia." Nuff Said.
Holy crap he said that! AWESOME! I just got back from a bouldering afternoon there! I left skin and blood and it was great.
I wouldn't recommend it though unless you want to do a lot of cleaning. It's a 3.5 mile hike one way, so not many people get up there.
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dynamicpanda
Oct 26, 2003, 8:39 PM
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uhh dude the east coast is an awfully big place. it depends on where you are going on the east coast. if you are going to the southeast you probably wont be too happy considering that you dont like slopers. boone, nc has tons of areas that offer crimpy problems but, the south is generally known for it's slopy sandstone boulders. i've never been up north. from the pictures i have seen of areas like pawtuckaway, the gunks, and rumney, it looks like there are far fewer slopey problems than down here.
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joeschmoe
Oct 26, 2003, 9:24 PM
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In reply to: madriver i go to coopers all the time, was there about 3 weeks ago with climbingbetty. Coopers is nice, but i dont think there is a huge quantity of overhanging problems but maybe i am wrong. I am going to be going from spring until summer sometime for 2 weeks. I am thinking one trip to rock town GA or lilly obed boulders, and another one to rumney or NH, get some trekking down on my off days of climbing.
having gone to rock town and lilly both i'd say go to rocktown if you want high quantity. however if you can handle not having 'alot' of problems to work, lily is pretty kick ass. most of the higher problems are either steep or overhung and crimpy as all get out.
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johnfromohio
Oct 26, 2003, 10:57 PM
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if a place has more than 75 problems, i am gonna be happy, i just wish i had more time to visit all the places. But I do love Coopers alot, 2 1/2 hour drive, explored very little of it
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walllizzard
Nov 11, 2003, 3:43 AM
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Hey ya want good bouldering come to PA. there is a ton of bouldering around Pitt, so i hear ive never gone that far west. I climb around Elizabethtown/ LAcaster PA, Around here wqe have some of the best unknown bouldering on the east coast. If want information u can check out the climbing areas here on the site, if ya want more detailed or a tour if ur this was give me a ring
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scubasnyder
Nov 11, 2003, 3:52 AM
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PA has lots of good boulder problems, you should check out some of the sites, tillbury rock has some good ones, but i didnt get all the pics up of them all.
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solid
Nov 11, 2003, 10:49 PM
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ptuck.
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captianstatic
Nov 11, 2003, 11:31 PM
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I just got back from a weekend at horse pens. It is undoubtedly the most fun I've ever had climbing outside. Besides the pluthera of sick problems you can camp right next to the boulders! They also have food and (that weekend) live music. Besides it's private property so there wouln't be any police to stop you from drinking or smoking dope.
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johnfromohio
Nov 12, 2003, 1:59 PM
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In reply to: Besides it's private property so there wouln't be any police to stop you from drinking or smoking dope.
might be the best possible reason to go down there :lol:
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 12, 2003, 2:04 PM
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If in New England, Pawtuckaway has been mentioned, but also what about Lincoln Woods in Rhode Island. Either Climbing or Rock and Ice just did a featured topo on it. I have not been there yet, but friends of mine rave about it.
Josh
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shamusnsusej
Nov 17, 2003, 8:22 AM
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id say go to hawks nest, nrg, wv. well over 75 steep, powerful problems. its a boulder feild on a solid rock river bed, so bring some spotters and a couple good pads. i live here and wouldnt mind showing your around and giving you spot, as long as im not working(which if i am, im sure some of my friends would love to show you around). make sure it hasnt been raining much, though. i went there last weekend and they had two gates way open(its a dam) and over half the problems were wet. plus, theres 1...2...3... a lot of other places to boulder within minutes of fayetteville, all of which are in the woods and have a more forgiving landing than hawks nest. and theres so much rock down here, you could take a hike through the woods and probably find a boulder thats never been touched. just come... now... you wont regret it.
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