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cgranite
Nov 12, 2003, 1:21 AM
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In the Ryan campground I found a huge boulder with a short slab sport route(4 bolts?). I really want to know what the names are for the route and the boulder? I'm also really curious to know what the rating is?
And I don't want anyone telling me to buy a book. I just got done looking through someones and I couldn't find it.
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steelmonkey
Nov 12, 2003, 1:39 AM
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Very vague description, but sounds kinda like
Slightly Ahead of Our Time (5.12)
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moabbeth
Nov 12, 2003, 1:41 AM
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Is it across from the area around site 3 or so (across the road)? If so, it's a bolt ladder for aiding practice. There's like three or four bolts then the next move requires a hook then the next bolt is right above that and it tops out. But I guess you could do it as a sport route, even though it's kinda featureless....which is why it's an aid bolt ladder.
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cgranite
Nov 12, 2003, 1:56 AM
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I didn't have my equipment with me, but I had a crash pad so I climbed up for fun. I got the start, but it was killer. It felt like 5.12 even though I haven't knowingly lead that grade yet. It sounds to me like the bolted aid route. I saw no chalk. the start was like V4+ and fun. I can't wait to go back there, especially after I buy some cams.
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moabbeth
Nov 12, 2003, 2:02 AM
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In reply to: I can't wait to go back there, especially after I buy some cams.
If you're talking about that slab route, you don't really have any pro placement, just that move that requires an aid hook where you put your left foot in that small dish and reach over right and hook in that small upwards facing flake. You hook in then step up in your ladder to reach the final bolt before the top.
If you're talking about Josh in general though, yeah, you'll have a lot more fun with a rack :wink: !
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stickclipper
Nov 12, 2003, 3:31 AM
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In reply to: Very vague description, but sounds kinda like Slightly Ahead of Our Time (5.12)
I agree with steel monkey.
Well done for getting that start; it is hard. And yes, it is a bolt-ladder, but it's also a free route.
Vogel:
"Slightly Ahead of Our Time" 5.12a "This is the bolt-ladder route on the large boulder behind campsite 27. This was the first 5.12 in the monument."
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cgranite
Nov 12, 2003, 4:06 AM
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Slightly Ahead of Our Time" 5.12a -just to make sure, Is it a huge egg shaped boulder with only one route? yes the first move on this route was killer. I almost had a heart attack.
A better description is that the first bolt had been placed like three different times because there was three other rusted holes in the rock where the bolt is.
And yes I want a rack for the amazing cracks all over.
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mreardon
Nov 12, 2003, 4:24 AM
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As everyone said, it's "Slightly Ahead of Our Time" (5.12a). I believe it was the first 5.12 in the Monument. Generally done as an aid line because of how close the bolts are, it is still free climbed once in a while.
It starts hard and drops off to much easier terrain by the third bolt (5.10+ for the upper moves). Typical, it has a reachy start that becomes slightly harder for we smaller folks, and though a couple edges have broken off in the last ten years, it still goes around 12b/c (or a fun sandbag for friends once you get the beta down).
As for bouldering, it's been done by a few of us so make sure to top it out! Downclimb's a party however....
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