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Learned something new "I a Gym"
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dontjinxme


Dec 29, 2003, 3:17 PM
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Learned something new "I a Gym"
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My partner and I got rained out this weekend. So indoors we go.

While climbing the last climb, I decided to attempt and overhang.
After getting up about ten feet, I reached a stopping point. Unable to move up or down, due to fatigue of 3 hours of repetitive climbing, and attempting a rather difficult climb for my level.
"Falling" I announce.
"I got you" Came the reply. I released the hand holds, and away I went. A nice little pendelum action ensued. As I spun around on the rope, while swing downward, I spy my belay man within my fall line. Quickly, I draw my feet up into the fetal position to avoid nailing him. He, also noticing the impending collision recoils back a little. My feet collided with his chest, further knocking him off kilter and putting me into tid bit faster spin. On the return pendulum, the vortex of my spin moved in the direct line of where he was. Again, keeping my feet drawn in I await the impact. Regaining his composure, he spots me on the attack. Again he recoils back and loses footing. While regaining traction, I suppose he decided that enough was enough, and released his belay in a rapid but controlled descent, timing the complete release of his brake hand at my lowest point. Maybe a foot off the ground. Of course my feet are still drawn up. I went sprawling into the shredded sneaker padding below.

Being new to climbing, I learned alot on that little episode.
:Check the fall line.
: My partner didn't release that brake hand until he was ready. Despite
what was going on.

That little incident, coupled with a couple of pictures in the newest issue of climbing magazine, made me realize just how vital your belayer is to your life, and how vital you are to theirs.


thun


Dec 29, 2003, 4:01 PM
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Thank goodness for gyms. Good thing you didn't have to learn that lesson the hard way (No pun intended).


furryfrisbee


Dec 29, 2003, 4:43 PM
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Sounds like the #10 route in the party room at Atlanta Rocks Intown. Seems that every new comer to the gym makes the same mistake on that climb. Or maybe #6, 7, or 8 in the main area, although most climbers on those climbs have been there enough to check the fall lines. Of course, when you come off #10 you might also take out the belayers on the column or some of the neighboring climbs!


jpearl


Dec 29, 2003, 5:04 PM
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Welcome to the world of gym climbing!

Not to knock gyms, but this is one facet that climbers in small gyms such as mine deal with all of the time. Our small, technical routes sometimes turn the climber / belayer relationship into a contact sport and nearby climber / belayer teams often get caught in the crossfire.

The lesson: Either go to a super big gym where each climber / belayer team enjoys plenty of room, or if you climb at a small gym (where you should be thankfull for the $200 annual membership in a city where closet-sized studio apartments rent for $1500), then climb and belay with a bit more vigilance and awareness of those around you.

P.S. any suggestions for a single word command a flailing, swinging climber can yell out to those around them? (kinda like when we yell "take" or "slack" for example)?


dontjinxme


Dec 29, 2003, 5:06 PM
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Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 8:43 am Post subject: Re: Learned something new "I a Gym"

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sounds like the #10 route in the party room at Atlanta Rocks Intown. Seems that every new comer to the gym makes the same mistake on that climb. Or maybe #6, 7, or 8 in the main area,


HEY: Great guess. It was Atlanta Rocks intown. Not in the party section though. I suppose the other sections you mentioned.
It was the overhang close to the boulder that sits in the middle of the floor. The natural rock wall.
There was a guy sitting on that boulder. The look on his face was great.


tucsonalex


Dec 29, 2003, 5:26 PM
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Congratulations, you win the captain obvious award! When a climber falls off of an overhang they swing away from the wall. Even someone that failed high school physics should be able to figure that one out.


furryfrisbee


Dec 29, 2003, 5:39 PM
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In reply to:
It was the overhang close to the boulder that sits in the middle of the floor. The natural rock wall.

Those can be some tough climbs, and, depending on when you come off, you can take out someone 30' from the base of the route. That's why they have those rope guides on the steeper routes! That wall and the column are the only places in a gym I like to climb anymore. It's been almost a year since I've been to a gym, and the last few times I think I was the belay slave.


skecthballer


Dec 29, 2003, 6:30 PM
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This wouldn't of happened if you were leading.


_dyno_figly_


Dec 30, 2003, 2:44 AM
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In reply to:
furryfrisbee: This wouldn't of happened if you were leading.
yea and bouldering wouldnt hurt either......i mean come ON.....its a gym for god sake......unless ur in a belay only room....in which case im way off base nd thats a totally different story :oops: lol


the_pirate


Dec 30, 2003, 2:46 AM
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I a GYN


overlord


Dec 30, 2003, 8:22 AM
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I a GYN

its GIN.

i once had to duck this chick when she feel from TR. i went to my knes, she swooped overhead, then i looked up and saw her BIG damn @ss coming back towards my head. so i hit the deck. missed me by 2inches.

because of her ability to knock peope off their feet (she did it to a friend) because she doesnt scream "falling" or something, we dubbed he "hte human wracking ball" :wink:


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