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dabhaid
Dec 29, 2003, 4:19 PM
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Hey all,
I got a book on knots from the jolly red man, and sad to say I'm completely fascinated... (there goes my last shred of street cred)
Anyways, while I have the bug I was wondering if anyone knows any interesting climbing related knots us newbies should know?
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vegastradguy
Dec 29, 2003, 4:35 PM
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Figure 8 (rewoven and on a bight)
Clove Hitch
Double/Triple Fishermans
Klemheist (prusik or bachmann are also an option)
Munter
Overhand (for rappeling, aka EDK)
these will get you started.
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robmcc
Dec 29, 2003, 4:44 PM
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Registered: Apr 1, 2003
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Hangman's noose. I keep this one handy for lax belayers. Put about 30' of slack in the line, rope 'em to the anchor and push. Done properly, they won't be weighting the rope at all at the end of the fall.
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furryfrisbee
Dec 29, 2003, 4:58 PM
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Registered: Apr 23, 2002
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Butterfly, or Alpine Butterfly.
http://brmrg.med.virginia.edu/knots/FTL/butrfly.html
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sharpie
Dec 29, 2003, 5:03 PM
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This is a good site for climber's knots "how tos":
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips.htm
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holdplease2
Dec 29, 2003, 5:22 PM
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Learn the Munter Hitch and the Munter Mule. Why?
The munter hitch serves as both a rappel knot and a belay knot. Sure, they can twist the rope if not done gingerly, but when you dropped your ATC (or your partner dropped theirs) it is good. No more carrying extra belay devices for you!
Also, with one more knot above the Munter (the Mule), it becomes a load release knot which is key for emergencies. Imagine you have to tie something heavy off (like a fallen partner or whatever). You put a figure 8 on a bight and clip it into your anchor. Now you want to untie that knot and do something with your load (ha ha). Go ahead and try to lift the load to unweight the knot. This is where "load release knots" come in handy...always back them up.
Also just knowing the mule knot, you can tie someone off on your ATC so you free your hands...not to be done for normal climbing situations, but in an emergency when you need to use your hands and they need to be on belay...there you go!
Alpine butterfly is also a great one.
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j_ung
Dec 29, 2003, 7:04 PM
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Though I routinely use any of several different knots depending on the situation, I sincerely believe that 90% of what I do on or under a wall can be accomplished with a variation of the figure 8 knot.
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bethel
Dec 30, 2003, 12:44 AM
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I know you said you have a book already, but in case anyone else was wondering...
I really like Knots and Ropes for Climbers, by Duane Raleigh. It outlines useful knots, as well as knots that should not be used, how to tie them, and what their primary uses are. I think it is a good book especially because it tells which knots are best for which purposes and why.
Exactly.
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dabhaid
Dec 30, 2003, 1:55 AM
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Registered: Nov 24, 2003
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lol! Now there's a useful knot :)
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alpiner
Dec 30, 2003, 2:01 AM
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In reply to: I really like Knots and Ropes for Climbers, by Duane Raleigh.
Beware, it also contains some very bad advice (see cover illustration for example) and plain BS. Read with care.
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smellyhippie
Dec 30, 2003, 2:45 AM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2003
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Dabhaid, you'll always have street cred with me. I've also heard RRRadam's handcuff knot referred to as backcountry handcuffs and my favorite, the love hitch.
Nate
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brutusofwyde
Dec 30, 2003, 8:25 AM
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One NOT you should know, and always be able to recognize:
The Final Hitch.
This not masquerades as many other knots, ranging from the figure eight that you forgot to complete as you were tying in (paying more attention to that cute sport babe flashing the next route over than the process of tying your knot,) to the knot tied on the wrong rope strand at a complicated wall belay, to the knot you didn't bother with to back up your ascenders before cleaning an A5 pitch your partner just took 12 hours to lead, gotta get a move on because the sun's going down...
Always check your knots, and your partners' knots, to make sure no one has tied the Final Hitch. It's the last Not they will ever tie.
Brutus
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renhoek
Jan 24, 2004, 5:11 AM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2003
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i forgot the name of the book i do believe its called the kelley book of knots although that might be a car price guide its refered to as the knot tying bible its got all you need (figure 8 prussik bowline) and a bunch you dont (monkey fist zeppelin bend and chinese button knot) good detailed instructions though.
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rokshoxbkr19
Jan 24, 2004, 5:16 AM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
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Vegastradguy pretty much hit it. If you have those knots in your arsenal you are good to go. I have climbed all over the country on all different types of routes and the only knots I have every needed were:
Figure 8
Fishermans, and double fishermans
Munter hitch (saved my ass big time on a remote dome in CO)
waterknot (used to tie 2 pieces of webbing together, a must know)
There are more that are good to know and can be useful, but you can get by on this stuff right here.
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c_kryll
Jan 24, 2004, 2:46 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2002
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Other usefull knots to know....Bowline, Bowline on a bite/Atomic Bowline. The ENTIRE Fig 8 family ie. Two loop/Rabbit Eared, the In-line, and of course the Equalized/3 point Fig 8.
Chris
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