Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Big wall harness
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


timpanogos


Jan 4, 2004, 1:54 AM
Post #1 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935

Big wall harness
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, live and learn - I bought the Misty Mountain Cadillac harness last year (advertised as a big wall harness). It is a "real man's" trad harness, and a great harness, I do like it, except, it just is not enough for those long hanging aid moments (hours).

I'm considering this harness - or best just go with the yates?

http://www.mistymountain.com/titan.htm


Anybody got any experience with this harness?

Chad


addiroids


Jan 4, 2004, 2:19 AM
Post #2 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I too have the MM Cadillac and do enjoy it. Here is something you should consider:

If you are hanging for hours, then you are not speed climbing.
If you are not speed climbing, then you are hauling.
If you are hauling, the the weight of a belay bench will not appreciably affect the weight of your load.

Therefore just get a belay bench and sit on that. Or wrap a Yates style aider around your waist and sit in that like a butt sling. I don't know if there is a step between what we have and the Yates Harness.

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag


epic_ed


Jan 4, 2004, 4:22 AM
Post #3 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Chad, I have the Titan and did my first wall in it a couple of years ago. That climb (on Leaning Tower) is the reason I replaced it with a Yates Big Wall. I now also own the Shield and will likely use it as my primary wall harness. Go Yates.

Hope you're doing well.

Ed


timpanogos


Jan 4, 2004, 5:28 AM
Post #4 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks Ed.

Things have been office/get fat/lazy since Moon Light. New years resolution, work out hard and get back to Yosemite next spring and do something.

Chad


karlbaba


Jan 4, 2004, 6:05 AM
Post #5 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have a Misty Mountain Cadilac and a Yate Shield. No comparison in my mind. I've used my Shield so much it's pretty ratty but never even think to pull out the Misty Mountain, which is in great condition. I often loan it to wall partners who don't have a fatty harness

Peace (and Yates)

karl


copperhead


Jan 4, 2004, 6:38 AM
Post #6 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yates. Definitely.


flamer


Jan 4, 2004, 8:14 AM
Post #7 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yep used both..the yates is the big winner..
josh


Partner euroford


Jan 5, 2004, 4:25 PM
Post #8 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

another vote for for yates. though i also have a cadilac and loooove it for trad climbing when i won't be expecting to hang to long. i can't free climb well in my yates big wall, well i can, but its not comfortable.


diesel___smoke


Jan 5, 2004, 9:00 PM
Post #9 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 9, 2003
Posts: 507

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Euroford - Despite your harness, can you free climb well with your other aid gear?

I have a yates big wall, it's a decent harness, but I've never used the other so my vote doesn't count. Being in any harness all day, for days at a time isn't going to be that comfortable regardless of which harness you have. All you can do is suck it up, cope with it, not complain and get ready for the next lead and hope it comes soon. That's my position...

Jp


Partner euroford


Jan 5, 2004, 9:30 PM
Post #10 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Euroford - Despite your harness, can you free climb well with your other aid gear?

good point! :lol:


spike


Jan 6, 2004, 3:25 PM
Post #11 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 3, 2001
Posts: 127

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

YATES Shield harness is the ticket for BIG WALLS.
I also use it for trad climbing.


crushingfinger


Jan 8, 2004, 2:19 AM
Post #12 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 30, 2003
Posts: 203

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My main harness is a wild country. Its the perfect all around harness for me a big back, plenty of loops and plenty of mobility.


epic_ed


Jan 8, 2004, 2:22 AM
Post #13 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
My main harness is a wild country. Its the perfect all around harness for me a big back, plenty of loops and plenty of mobility.

?? Ummm, and how much aiding climbing have you done in it hanging from belays for hours (days) on end? If you have, you must have some hardcore kidneys! :mrgreen:

Ed


crushingfinger


Jan 8, 2004, 2:35 AM
Post #14 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 30, 2003
Posts: 203

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've never done days worth of aiding and never want to but, I have done full 60 meter pitches in it and I have a spare that I use soley for bolting. so I'd have to say hours at a time. It is very comfortable in my book but ya know what they say no brain no pain I guess. What do you use?


epic_ed


Jan 8, 2004, 2:39 AM
Post #15 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ouch..."all arounder's" usually aren't quite adequate for big, fat bastards like me. And Chad's no skinny-mini, either. :P

In reply to:
Chad, I have the Titan and did my first wall in it a couple of years ago. That climb (on Leaning Tower) is the reason I replaced it with a Yates Big Wall. I now also own the Shield and will likely use it as my primary wall harness. Go Yates.

Hope you're doing well.

Ed


timpanogos


Jan 9, 2004, 6:02 AM
Post #16 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dang

Ed has found my problem!

I really felt it on Moon light! I'm in the gym now, 3 times a week, jugging the rap station trying to drop a bunch of this off.

4 months to lose it - back to Yos.

Yep, as bigwalling mentioned - exersize program - part is jugging, which I swore I'd do while huffy and puffing on my solo of Moonlight. Other thing that about defeated me was sore hands (I do computer work) and the jugging/working the adj daisy nylon will hopefully calus up my hands a bit as a by-product.

Also, counting those caleries, -3500 a week will hopefully do it, one week into the routine and feeling good so far .....


bigwalling


Jan 9, 2004, 6:12 AM
Post #17 of 17 (2973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728

Re: Big wall harness [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dude just start running and eating healthy. In four months you'll have a lower body fat.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook