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Thoughts on the climbing gyms of Ontario
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c_plante


Mar 14, 2002, 8:59 AM
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Xen_Monkey: Rather than relying on a narcotic or alcohol to put me in that state I usually climb until I'm too tired to continue, rest for a bit, and then try and squeeze out as much as I can. Climbing when I'm physically tired forces me to use more technique, of course I get sloppy I'll admit that, but I'm not "powering" my way up a climb.

As for relaxing, I'm wayyy too drunk to ease up on the weiner.

Christian


spiderx


Mar 14, 2002, 5:01 PM
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C-Plant

I think you have proven my point for me, when you are outdoors you have no idea what to expect, that’s part of the fun, you climb with the elements and with the uncertainty of not knowing what’s around the corner. In a gym you don’t have any of that, you know that you are safe no matter what happens. Some people prefer that, I admit I’m a bit of a Rat-Gym myself. But anything like; humidity or a loose hold, that makes it seem slightly more like the real thing should be taken advantage of. It’s another question mark in the formula. Should I use this rock or go for another, how much pressure can I put on that foot before the rock gives, is my hand gong to slip when I transfer my weight over. I think it forces you to work on you technique, and makes you a better climber over all.

Spider


c_plante


Mar 14, 2002, 10:41 PM
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Spiderx: I liked the unpredictability of the outdoors, I agree with you there. I just don't agree with you when you say that climbing is hell... or whatever you actually said.

Xen: Start a new thread! I'll post to it.

Christian


downshift


Apr 5, 2002, 2:44 AM
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Well I finally went to Toronto Climbing Academy. I must say I was rather surprised. I’ve heard more good than bad about this gym but after being there I don’t quite understand the bad. It’s a nice clean gym with free parking in Toronto. What more could you ask for? The routes were decent with a good variety of levels. I like the climbing pinnacle and the attached bouldering area in the back. I would definately take another run out there when I’m in that area of Toronto.


xen_monkey


Apr 5, 2002, 4:57 AM
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I've only been there once, but as I've said before I remember it being dark. But that could be just tricks o the mind


downshift


Apr 6, 2002, 4:26 AM
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Actually it was fairly well lit... But, I think it may have been added since you were last there the lighting looked fairly new.


spike_in_milton


Apr 18, 2002, 9:26 PM
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I was in Rock Oasis last night, and the place has seen some serious improvements...

The new walls are nearly finished, as is the very cool-looking new bouldering cave. The soft-padded floors are being replaced bit by bit with something firmer and easier to walk on (and probably safer for the ankles on a hard fall), and the new co-ed changeroom with showers has far more locker spaces available (although still feels somewhat more crowded than before).

Don't know who's grading the climbs though... there's no way in HELL that 5.8-marked climb I did was anywhere near a 5.8, not when you had to smear your way up six feet to get to the first hold off the ground

Spike/Adam


krillen


Apr 18, 2002, 9:55 PM
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Well I hit the BoilerRoom in Kingston last week, and I have to say I came out with Mixed feelings.

The non-climbing facilities are nice they have work out equipment and a little lounge area.

The climbing area is cramped and dark, and there is no sport leading available. I did like their two bouldering areas, except for being dark though.

The gym has a 100 foot chimney with two routes in it, bt only one can be climbed at a time. The routes in here are basically straight up and if you get stuck, stemming is pretty easy.

Overall I wouldn't go back, it was alright once, and if you need somewhere to train over the winter, it'd do.

If you have questions, let me know.


downshift


Apr 18, 2002, 11:32 PM
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Krillen:

How hard did the make the two chimney Climbs???

BTW all, Oasis is in the process of renovating, they've moved the change rooms upstairs and in the old change room spot there building a decent looking bouldering area.


spiderx


Apr 22, 2002, 1:36 AM
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Does anyone know what they are building at JoeRockheads in Toronto?

SpiderX


downshift


Apr 22, 2002, 2:40 AM
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Apparently, the renovations at Rockheads is for a new bouldering area. Apparently according to the person behind the counter they plan to have it done shortly before the bouldering Comp.


downshift


May 2, 2002, 3:05 AM
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So Rockhead's now has the new bouldering area open. There are no hold in the bouldering area yet but there is a new route that is now up which is a bit challenging.

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