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gymnasticscoach
Mar 14, 2002, 11:07 AM
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I am building an indoor rock wall in my gym and I am considering whether to purchase an autobelay system or not? I have only found three distributors/manufacturers for this device. (Mostly used on mobile walls) Rose Manufactures one and the other is Autobelay-in-a-box or something like that. Rose gives a controlled descent and In-a-box uses a redundant hydraulic system that locks on fall. Redundant - meaning there's a backup if the first hydraulic system should fail. They cost about $1,600.00-1,800.00 if purchased individually. I am told that I can get a deal if I purchase 10 at $1,300.00 each. I don't need that many and was wondering if others are interested in purchasing this device at a lower cost if I make the first initial buy? Are autobelays a good idea for an indoor gym?
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zlipper
Mar 15, 2002, 12:59 PM
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ill give you this much its an odd feeling climbing on one
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i.karen
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Mar 15, 2002, 1:11 PM
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I have started seeing a lot of gyms start using them and they are really helpful if you don't have a partner. But like Zlipper said it's a weird feeling letting go at the top!
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wigglestick
Mar 15, 2002, 3:28 PM
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I don't believe these devices are a good idea for an indoor gym. They might be ok for those portable walls they have at county fairs where the idea is to get as many people to pay 5 bucks to climb and only have one high school kid running the whole show.
If you are planning on opening a commercial indoor gym than they are a bad idea. No self respecting climber will attach themselves to one of those devices on a regular basis.
Also I can see how those devices can breed alot of complacency in the gym and people will just go on autopilot and could forget to tie their knot etc. Without having another person there to check your knot and make sure everything is safe, things could get even more dangerous. Just my opinion though.
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zlipper
Mar 15, 2002, 3:37 PM
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i totally agree
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goopermc
Mar 15, 2002, 5:28 PM
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They have auto belays at my local gym. All the newbies love 'em and all the experienced climbers hate them.
I find that the auto belayer pull you off the wall on overhanging climbs as well as pulling you up the wall on non-overhanging climbs . In my gym we approximated that the auto belayers take almost 15lbs of your weight.
They also get in the way if you are trying to dyno, downclimb, traverse, basically then get in the way if you do anything but moving up in a controlled manner. Even then, they still pull you up the wall.
[ This Message was edited by: goopermc on 2002-03-15 09:29 ]
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phreakdigital
Apr 24, 2002, 7:25 AM
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hmm..seems like an interesting thing...what do they look like...they must be big...bolted to the floor? how does it know when you are at the top? and so on
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psalmadventurer
Apr 24, 2002, 11:16 PM
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when i started taking lessons @ our gym i loved the auto belay. it is nice when you are a beginner b/c I started wanting to try new things but i would often fall. the inexperienced belayers shot right into the air. i think it is a great thing to have when learning or trying new moves. i always feel bad for the belayer because i can climb for a while b4 getting tired, but they get exhausted belaying me. so it is great to be able to give them a break.
whoa i used really bad english and punctuation, sorry guys.
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addiroids
Apr 24, 2002, 11:50 PM
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I agree that the autobelay systems are worthless. Just build some bomber top anchors and set the toprope. A way to keep the the belayer from being "ripped from the ground in a fall" (this doesn't happen on TR) would be to wrap the climbing rope 1.5 times around a 8-12" pipe at the top.
Just learn how to belay, and buy some Gri-Gri's if you are worried about people being dropped. And dammit, hire staff that are currently climbers, or that have the mental capacity to do it right and have the passion enough to teach everyone there how to do it right.
And no self-respecting dirtbag climber would pay $1,300 for a belay device when they could get one for $25 (with biner) and a day of instruction from a local climber who will teach you how to belay for a case of beer.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
[ This Message was edited by: addiroids on 2002-04-24 16:52 ]
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jgorris
Apr 24, 2002, 11:56 PM
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Waste of capital. Your liability will not be reduced, accidents will still happen.
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psalmadventurer
Apr 25, 2002, 2:04 AM
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I wish staff @ gyms would be more willing to belay people. That is why I am stuck not being able to go to gyms, b/c I have nobody to belay me/climb with. Therefore, for beginners like me who a lot of climbers wish not to be associated, the auto belay is a major blessing
Jennifer
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climb512
Apr 28, 2002, 9:54 AM
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I think they are great, you dont need a partner, no ropes in the way while traversing,and dont have to pay staff to belay for you if you dont have a partner.
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