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Another home wall
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bkboyd


Jan 19, 2004, 6:50 AM
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Another home wall
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Here's a shot of my home wall:

http://www.briankboyd.com/...limb/cave1_small.jpg

And another one here:

http://www.briankboyd.com/...limb/cave2_small.jpg

It's a 10'x12' bouldering cave. Features include two 10' roofcracks (hands and thin hands), and finger and fist/offwidth cracks coming through the bulge. One stalactite, lots of insets, and 400+ holds.


richeyks


Jan 19, 2004, 7:40 AM
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that's a great looking little wall.... wish i had one of those in my yard *jealous* :oops:


Partner coldclimb


Jan 19, 2004, 8:13 AM
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:shock: :shock: :shock:

Nice!


overlord


Jan 19, 2004, 8:32 AM
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this loks REALLY nice.


psirro


Jan 19, 2004, 11:07 AM
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jealous..very jealous of your back yard wall i only have a fingerboard and i cant put on an wall because my home is not mine...


overlord


Jan 19, 2004, 11:09 AM
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btw, how did you construct it????


dc


Jan 19, 2004, 11:21 AM
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:shock: woah! dude that is sweet! :P

did u join this site to make us jealous? :wink: :lol:

just a few questions..

how much did it cost overall? like holds, wood, etc
how long did it take you? total time.. like planning, building, putting the holds on..
how did you actually make it? like considering such an awesome shape..

ok.. no further questions :lol:

aiyee.. such a nice lil cave..

btw, i love the crack.. great idea.. could u place natural protection?


dc


Jan 19, 2004, 11:23 AM
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also... i love the paint job!


josephine


Jan 19, 2004, 12:19 PM
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WOW,that looks really great!

I'm jealous!


wildduck


Jan 19, 2004, 1:10 PM
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awesome dude !!!

I wished i had one of those ! beautiful !

my home just doesn't have the space for that and i don't have pockets deep enough to build something like that !

cool ~


bkboyd


Jan 19, 2004, 5:35 PM
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Construction details:

Built in two stages. The first portion was the main roof, second portion was the left side bulge, and the side support (petroglyphs w/ guys and a snake). The first portion was built in 5 pieces: main roof (angled), flat roof, left vert wall, right vert, and support. Each piece has simple and complex angles. The former are just individual plywood segments cut for different angles. The latter are (typically) larger plywood sheets that are wet down with hot water and then bent into contours. Some of these bends took a couple of days to shape. Everything is glued and screwed.

Hand cracks are made with 2x10, interiors completely sculpted with flares, bulges, etc. Finger cracks were made with 2x8 sections laid flat against the back side of the plywood, then cut with a sawzall. Plywood sheeting then laid on the back of the crack to seal it closed.

I made a router template to cut the inset placements -- faster and a smoother cut. I also made plugs that go over the inset hole, so I can use regular hold in the same place if needed.

Finishing was done by putting down wire mesh, then coating witha fiberglass reinforced concrete. I'm getting some delamination after 3+ years of exposure to the elements, and probably should have put it on much thicker. Sprayed final coats on with a hopper gun using different concrete dyes, then used a sponge and very diluted dyes to get the final colors.

Petroglyphs were cut into cardboard templates, then painted on with a dark concrete finish.

The first stage took 2-3 months, evenings and weekends.

The second stage (bulge) was considerably more complex to build: The bulge itself has 17 distinct angles, which meant a LOT of framing and plywood cuts. The bulge also has two finger crack segments, and the fist-offwidth crack. It is much smaller square footage, but took probably 6 weeks.

I've built hold storage into the right side of the cave: The back of one wall has angled shelves, and the top has covered bins. the top of the cave is covered with plywood sheet and tarps, so that it is bonge dry in the rain. We live in Arizona, so rain is pretty much hypothetical.
You can start problems pretty much anywhere, and problems range from 10' to 35' long.

Cost: more than I care to think about :)


b_fost


Jan 19, 2004, 5:44 PM
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35 foot problems on a HOME WALL?!?!?!?!?!!??! I'm moving to scottsdale and making friends with you to climb on your wall. IN-CRED-IBLE!!!!!!!


fuzzymonkey


Jan 19, 2004, 6:31 PM
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That's perty wild man, so for the price it cost you to build (including the number of hours) how many trips to the gym could you pay for? :shock: LOL :twisted:

That's looks awesome, I'd climb it for-sure :).


cbeltrano


Jan 19, 2004, 7:43 PM
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damn.... that's nicer than most of the walls i've seen at gyms.... with the added benefit of being able to climb outside in the fresh air....

nice job!!!!


scubasnyder


Jan 19, 2004, 7:45 PM
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i want one come build one for me


morganicclimbing


Jan 19, 2004, 9:50 PM
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Wow, that is one awesome wall. My compliments to the chef. Could you give us some more detail on the texture? I want to do the same to my wall. Did you use the wire mesh all over or just where the plywood met and corners? What exactly is the mix? Did you drill the holes for T-Nuts before or after? Ok, I'll stop. Thanks in advance!!!!

Lance


corpse


Jan 19, 2004, 10:34 PM
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My question is...

When you are climbing on it, is it considered gym climbing, home climbing, or OUTDOOR climbing? hehe "Yeah, I went outdoor climbing yesterday, killer 35 ft problem, and I was still in my underwear from when I woke up.."


bkboyd


Jan 19, 2004, 11:52 PM
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Texture stuff:

I mentioned earlier that I've been having some problems with it flaking off. My hypothesis is that I put in on too thin. I've seen the texture go on in some commercial gyms since then, and their base is a lot thicker.

I used wire mesh for the whole surface, then used fiberglass reinforced cement (brand name quickwall) with diluted acrylic fortifier. To get better adhesion, I sponged some of the acrylic onto the wood before applying the texture.

Double-coated sections have held up better than single, and troweled better than sprayed. Extra thick around corners or angles also seems to help.

T-nut holes went in first, then texture. I hand tightened each T-nut using a bolt and washers so I wouldn't have to bang on the wall.

I can probably find a photo of the roof crack if anyone cares.


viningjc


Jan 20, 2004, 1:48 AM
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You did that for each t-nut??? How long did that take you? It took me quite a while just to pound all of mine in. Also I might have missed this but did you have the tnuts in before the texture? If so how did you keep the texture out? Even if you didn't how did you keep the texture out of the holes?


andy_reagan


Jan 20, 2004, 6:40 PM
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where'd you say you lived again??? :roll: :lol:


Sweet job brother.


pixelguru


Jan 20, 2004, 7:33 PM
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:shock:
As a graphic artist, I now hang my head in shame over my sheets of unpainted basement plywood... The paintings really add to the structure.

just don't ever move!


climbsomething


Jan 20, 2004, 8:06 PM
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Wow, top-notch woody. That's some serious dedication. But I'm making a system board in my living room, and I'm gonna mold the holds myself out of bondo and sand. SO THERE!!! :P


efleming


Jan 21, 2004, 1:01 AM
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Great job!

i also live in scottsdale and have been thinking of building a woodie outside. i'm not sure about the heat though. what is your experience?


haleb11


Jan 26, 2006, 9:15 PM
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How do the holds turn out after a rain? I was thinking about building a more primitive wall like this in my back yard but I was worried about rain and it messing up the holds.


puppypusher


Feb 17, 2006, 1:08 PM
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thats what boners are made out of


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