|
|
|
|
reno
Jan 20, 2004, 8:12 AM
Post #1 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
|
The problem with writing about an epic is the common one to all authors: "How to begin?" So many of my TR's have started with a tangential thought, I decided to start this TR where it started... at the start. Try though I may, I can not possibly do justice to this past weekend... But I'm going to try!
Here we go...
Thursday (15 Jan 2004,) 0530 hours, Denver: I'm ready to roll. I've got the pack with the harness and rope, my duffel with some clothes, a cooler full of lasagna and beer, and a thermos of coffee. The tank is half-full (I intended to fill it last night, but I slept instead.) It's brisk, but not terribly cold. The Jeep starts on command, and I'm rolling like a big rig.
Thursday, 39d26.85m N, 105d44.26m W: Passing by Mount Logan, just west of Bailey, Colorado, and the view is amazing. The sun is rising, and I have an amazing view of the reddish-orange alpen glow refecting off the mountain side. This is a good start to a weekend, I think. I light a cigarette, refresh my coffee, and start thinking about a gas station stop.
Thursday, 38d56.39m N, 105d57.89m W: I make a stop at a gas station to top off. The tank is just on the shy side of a quarter tank, and my Jeep is world famous for lousy mileage. I've never been on this road (Hwy 285) before, and over the years I've learned to stop for gas when you can, just in case. Sadly, though, my debit card is having a moment... I use it so often the magnetic stripe is worn thin. And this gas pump card reader won't read the card. Digging through my pockets, I gather up a paltry $4.95 and get as much gas as I can. Hmmm... If the card doesn't work soon, it's gonna be an interesting walk to Ouray.
Thursday, 38d43.38m N, 106d05.22m W: I manage to find a gas station that accepts my over-used card. I fill up the tank, and breathe a sigh of relief. At least I'll make it to Ouray, where I can get a wire transfer of money if it comes to that. The sun is fully up now, and I'm motoring along, listening to National Public Radio, and drinking more coffee.
Thursday, 38d30.28m N, 106d19.68m W: Monarch Pass, elevation 11,000 and change. Surprisingly, or maybe not, this is the only place I've had a decent signal on my cell phone since I left the Denver Metro area. Stopping only long enough to pee and fire off a quick text message to my old climbing buddy in Atlanta (just to rub it in,) I keep moving. There be ice waiting, and I'm itching to swing my picks into something cold and blue.
Thursday, 38d27.98m N, 107d17.90m W: Just outside the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and I have to shake off thoughts of pulling over and climbing some trad lines. Good thing I left the rack of rock pro at home, else I might not make it to Ouray. There's a fantastic wall to my right, and I'm cruising along the south shore of a resevouir. Make a note to self to come here some weekend this spring or summer.
Thursday, 1215 hours, 38d01.50m N, 107d40.42m W: Arrival in Ouray. Got an hour till I meet up with Sandbag and Redpointron, so I walk up to the park and just look... Blue ice as far as I can see, and lots of activity getting things set up. A few climbers running about, the New Belguim Brewery beer truck just down the way, and Jim Donini chatting with folks over a cup of coffee. Meet up with Sandbag and Redpointron, and we head over to the pizza place for a few slices and a couple pitchers of beer. The rest of the crew arrives in due course, and we feast this evening on lasanga, wine, and conversation. Alpinerocket and Phatbastard stop by for a beer, and we meet the neighbors... a group from Washington State that goes by the name of "The Mountaineers." They've written a book, it seems... Maybe you've read it? Anyway: Beer, friends, and food. Everything is in place, and this is shaping up to be a heck of a weekend.
Friday, 0545 hours: Geo wakes us all with a rousing "Good morning, ladies" (this despite the fact that Skibabeage is the only female in a house of 12,) and the coffee is consumed by the gallon. We all head out for various activities... some to clinics, some to just climb, and others to "see and be seen." Lots of good ice climbed, and lots of good photos taken as well. I demo'd a pair of BD Viper tools, Charlet Moser Dart crampons, and Salomon boots. Nice tools, didn't care for the crampons, and the boots were OK, but not as warm as my Koflach double plastic boots.
Friday, 1600 hours: I head back to the townhome, and quaff three quarts of water and two beers in about 30 minutes. A shower, a change of clothes, and an hour later, we all head to the Community Center above the fire station for the pizza and beer festival. There we meet Beer Girl and Pizza Girl, and do the social thing. Tracyroach shows up, joins us for a drink and conversation, and great fun is had by all. I hit the bed early, worn out from a long day of climbing after a lousy night of sleep.
Saturday, 0545 hours: Once again, like a Swiss clock, Geo is right on time... "Alright, Marines... Drop your d!ck$ and grab your picks... let's move!" And once again, the coffee is consumed greedily. Someone was thoughtful enough to buy a few packages of Pecan Spin pastries, and these are eaten with gusto. I scramble a few dozen eggs, and we all head out again for clinics and climbing. Thelawgoddess showed up, and showed all of us men how to climb with "Big Brass Ones" by sending a tough route first thing in the morning. We all suck in comparison. Today I demo a pair of Camp tools, a set of Grivel G-14's, and some boots from LaSportiva (Trango Extreme S.) Liked the Camp tools a lot (things are so light, it's like swinging nothing, but the placements are solid,) and I couldn't tell any difference between the G-14's and my usual Rambos I borrow from Geo. Again, the boots are OK, but cooler than I'm accustomed to. Watched a few of the pros in the comp, and they are WICKED climbers. The route was rated at MI9-ish, and only two made the final roof move. There is no chance I'll ever be that good. None.
Saturday, 1830 hours: We head to the Community center again, this time for the Fire Department Fund Raiser dinner. Again, we see Beer Girl and Pizza Girl. This time, pizza girl smiled at me. I was instantly smitten. But I'm getting off track... The auction was cool, with lots of donated gear for bid, starting at half of retail price. Most of our group came away with something: I got a Marmot 15 degree Dry Loft down bag for $230, Tim got a Petzel helmet with face shield for $30, Sandbag got a Yates harness for $10, etc. After paying for my new sleeping bag, I head back to the townhome, and find Geo has made friends with a nice couple from Atlanta, my old stomping grounds. We chat a while and in short order, Clyde Soles shows up to visit. If you can imagine it, the talk centers around climbing, mountains, and summits. I enjoy the conversation, and relax in the moment... Friends, food, and fun.
Sunday, 0545 hours: Guess what? Ah-yup... "You are the laziest sorry excuses for a bunch of climbers I've ever seen! Get your fat butt out of bed and let's eat chocolate-chip and strawberry pancakes!" I really like Geo as a buddy, but his annoying habit of waking up at 0300 every day can be irritating. Doubly so when one has a hangover from too many New Belgium beers. I make a feeble attempt to brew coffee, and am quickly banished for all eternity from making coffee when Skibabeage claims my brew is little better than hot water... she likes her coffee strong enough to take paint off the walls. Redpointron, Sharpie, Tim the Token Civilian (non-RC.com guy) and I head to the South Park for a quick line before our 1030 clinics, and Ron manages to lose a crampon about 2/3 of the way up the route. I lower him, he gets his crampon back, and runs up the route in less than 7 minutes. We hustle out to the tents to meet our clinics, and spend the rest of the day climbing a number of routes. I finished off on a steep line at the lower bridge, and Peter Holcombe "got a cool pic" (his words, not mine) of me exiting a ice chimney onto some vertical ice. Can't wait to see it.
Sunday, 1645 hours: I'm spent, and head to the townhome with sandbag for a shower, beer, and the end of the Colts-Patriots game. Beer was good, game sucked. The rest of the gang showed up, Skibabeage makes a run to the grocery for some foodstuff, and Sean (another token civilian and non-RC.com guy) grills the chicken for dinner. Elvislegs and I make a beer run, and we begin the First Annual World Cup Indoor Condo Balcony Drytooling Comp. Sean makes the first ascent, Tradkelly makes the second ascent, and the fun is on. Geo, ever the alpinist, does the whole route without any figure-four moves wearing a full pack. Skibabeage shakes her head at it all, and heads to bed. Everyone retires to bed shortly, and the weekend is almost over.
Monday, 0700 hours: To our surprise and pleasure, we get to sleep in today. A mix of leftovers is put together for breakfast, and everyone starts packing. The end of a climbing weekend is a sad moment for all. Elvislegs heads out with Fran to drive back to Denver, and I give Redpointron a ride to Grand Junction, where he hops a flight to Denver and on to Indiana. I pass Skibabeage on I-70, and promptly get passed by Flamer, and a few hours later, it's all just a memory of time spent climbing, laughing, and living with my friends.
But what a memory it is...
I'll see everyone in Ouray next year.
|
|
|
|
|
climbinganne
Jan 20, 2004, 3:58 PM
Post #2 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2002
Posts: 11679
|
pictures!!
i dunno reno...i'm not sheading a tear here...
i was told and read all the stories, but geo never got up before me - ha...you already knew that too
LOL
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Jan 20, 2004, 4:13 PM
Post #3 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: I pass Skibabeage on I-70, and promptly get passed by Flamer
Dude! You drive SLOW!!
josh
|
|
|
|
|
mother_sheep
Jan 20, 2004, 4:39 PM
Post #4 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 18, 2002
Posts: 3984
|
Reno. . . was the foreign guy you were climbing with on Sun? Someone got a cool shot over me going up and over the roof beside your route. I'd like to get my hands on it. It may have been someone from my group tho. . .
|
|
|
|
|
tradkelly
Jan 20, 2004, 4:54 PM
Post #5 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2003
Posts: 278
|
What of a bummer. Now our post is all fragmented. The real TR really is still going on in the event thread, but with the DB problem we've got going on it's really difficult to get to.
Yeah, it looks as though about 50 posts are just missing, which makes the last 4 or 5 pages appear blank (and therefore really hard to get to!). Here's a temporary fix -
Go see the thread from about the time we all started showing up there, along with blow-by-blow action and pictures (yum, pictures) RIGHT HERE. (Go to the most recent post by changing the last number in the URL from 735 to about 765, as of today...)
Hey, attendees - I still only have two votes, from Geo and Jasona (both for Beer Girl). Who's gonna stand up for Pizza Girl? Hunh? I wanna hear it. Look forward to some HUGE collections of photos online from you guys sometime soon.
I think I broke my hand before I left. Ouch. We'll go skiing today and I'll tell you tomorrow the verdict. :P
|
|
|
|
|
csoles
Jan 20, 2004, 5:09 PM
Post #6 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 329
|
Jeez, after 53 pages of spray, I was expecting Party Central and instead found the JackMormon Tabernacle Choir :P Ah, but the homebrews were indeed very tasty and the conversations entertaining. Good meeting all of you (sorry for forgetting most of the names)!
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Jan 20, 2004, 5:20 PM
Post #7 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: Jeez, after 53 pages of spray, I was expecting Party Central and instead found the JackMormon Tabernacle Choir :P Ah, but the homebrews were indeed very tasty and the conversations entertaining. Good meeting all of you (sorry for forgetting most of the names)!
I know what you mean Clyde!
I had planned to spend alittle more time partying with you folks but everytime I stopped by it sucked!!- Well the party did- the people and the beer were both good. I ended up spending most of my time at the real party house....wish I had picture's! But anyone who met my boy johnny(with or without his clothes on- Sombero optional) know's where I'm coming from.
josh
|
|
|
|
|
mother_sheep
Jan 20, 2004, 5:36 PM
Post #8 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 18, 2002
Posts: 3984
|
In reply to: In reply to: Jeez, after 53 pages of spray, I was expecting Party Central and instead found the JackMormon Tabernacle Choir :P Ah, but the homebrews were indeed very tasty and the conversations entertaining. Good meeting all of you (sorry for forgetting most of the names)! I know what you mean Clyde! I had planned to spend alittle more time partying with you folks but everytime I stopped by it sucked!!- Well the party did- the people and the beer were both good. I ended up spending most of my time at the real party house....wish I had picture's! But anyone who met my boy johnny(with or without his clothes on- Sombero optional) know's where I'm coming from. josh
Johnny is the man! Johnny got naked and you left with a trail of smoke behind you. You are fast! Shane and I headed out shortly after you. I was affraid he was going to poke my eye out with that thing. I knew I shouldn't have sat on the floor!
|
|
|
|
|
pdoidy
Jan 20, 2004, 5:46 PM
Post #9 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2003
Posts: 156
|
In reply to: Hey, attendees - I still only have two votes, from Geo and Jasona (both for Beer Girl). Who's gonna stand up for Pizza Girl?
http://www.pangeainteractive.com/images/Pizza.jpg
I wasnt even there and its a no brainer!
|
|
|
|
|
redpointron
Jan 20, 2004, 8:41 PM
Post #10 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2003
Posts: 1170
|
the ice fest is over
i'm back home again
drytooling in the shed
is about to begin
but first let me set
the story quite straight
how RC.commers
had a time that was great
kaia, from telly
sell the skis right away
pack up the audi
and move to ouray
what can you say
about geo the marine
the colorado contingent's
very own mr. clean
skibby, i don't know
if jack tackle is right
maybe next year
get a class with mark twight
tradkelly will fool you
with that sly little grin
from within that head
is where most trouble begins
and clyde your the man
been around since the day
and i can't help but agree
that the bowline's the way
the rocket and phattie
in utah you thrive
with a dip and a pick
you hike water ice five
sandbag's the man
who's bruised and quite bloody
keep brewing the beer
and your everyone's buddy
reno, my bro
from the midwest you came
you realized quite early
that colorado's got game
beer girl, i dig you
with braces and ale
when you gave jason the hat
my affection you derailed
pizza girl, oh man
what can one say
lose those two dudes
and let's run away
sharpie you hooked
us up with some schwag
maybe one day
you'll start your own mag
drytooling away
john grabbed some pro from his pocket
wrap it and pack it
protectin' the rocket
sean with the beard
you super fit cat
the leadville 100
tough to top that
flamer and elvis
abbot and tim
i've run out of time
i call each of you friend
if i forgot anybody
i'm sorry, okay
but drink some fat tire
i did every day
what i learned in the end
and couldn't have quessed at the start
was
the colorado contingent is much greater
than the sum of its parts
r.r.
|
|
|
|
|
timmo
Jan 20, 2004, 9:48 PM
Post #11 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 20, 2004
Posts: 6
|
I had to join the forum just to put my vote in, and here it is: PIZZA GIRL! Even though beer girl poured a fine beer, she isn't even fit to serve pizza girl beer.
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Jan 20, 2004, 11:39 PM
Post #12 of 106
(15657 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
[quote:a63cfef547="flamer"][quote:a63cfef547="csoles"]Jeez, after 53 pages of spray, I was expecting Party Central and instead found the JackMormon Tabernacle Choir :P Ah, but the homebrews were indeed very tasty and the conversations entertaining. Good meeting all of you (sorry for forgetting most of the names)![/quote:a63cfef547]
I know what you mean Clyde!
I had planned to spend alittle more time partying with you folks but everytime I stopped by it sucked!!- Well the party did- the people and the beer were both good. I ended up spending most of my time at the real party house....wish I had picture's![/quote:a63cfef547]
could it be you people are finally catching on to the idea these gatherings are about [i:a63cfef547]climbing[/i:a63cfef547]? remember: you can't soar with the eagles if you stay up with the night-owls. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Jan 20, 2004, 11:45 PM
Post #13 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Jeez, after 53 pages of spray, I was expecting Party Central and instead found the JackMormon Tabernacle Choir :P Ah, but the homebrews were indeed very tasty and the conversations entertaining. Good meeting all of you (sorry for forgetting most of the names)! I know what you mean Clyde! I had planned to spend alittle more time partying with you folks but everytime I stopped by it sucked!!- Well the party did- the people and the beer were both good. I ended up spending most of my time at the real party house....wish I had picture's! could it be you people are finally catching on to the idea these gatherings are about climbing? remember: you can't soar with the eagles if you stay up with the night-owls. :wink:
DUDE!!! You're soooo wrong on that one!! These fest's and gatherings are for socializing and drinking and doing some climbing....The real climbing gets done when you're with one partner(or going solo) and you GO CLIMBING!!! Not to a gathering or fest.....DUH!!!
So when are you and I going to do some real Climbing anyway? Something big.
josh
|
|
|
|
|
csoles
Jan 20, 2004, 11:51 PM
Post #14 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 329
|
In reply to: could it be you people are finally catching on to the idea these gatherings are about climbing? remember: you can't soar with the eagles if you stay up with the night-owls. :wink:
Lots of alcohol and late nights so you're bleary-eyed in the morning when you climb is PERFECT training for the Big E. It's in one of my books somewhere ;-)
BTW Skibby, Jack is very much taken. But I'll pass your post along to him.
|
|
|
|
|
brianinslc
Jan 21, 2004, 12:17 AM
Post #15 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 1500
|
In reply to: Then, of course, there was that unknown Daniel-Day-Lewis-Last-of-the-Mohicans-look-alike standing at upper bridge.Skibs
Had to be $hitting Bull Scottajawea Pocahinton...anyone know if he was there?
Did you ask Jack about his high school dry tooling?
Ha ha...
Brian in SLC
|
|
|
|
|
sharpie
Jan 21, 2004, 12:20 AM
Post #16 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2002
Posts: 1111
|
In reply to: Many folks stayed the next day to climb after expertly masking the damage to the condo
By the way you all owe me approximately $0.22 for your share of my Pepsodent tooth paste/spackling compound...
Fixes drywall damage and leaves your breath minty fresh...what a perfect product slogan...and that my friends is why I'm in the advertising business.
|
|
|
|
|
skibabeage
Deleted
Jan 21, 2004, 12:28 AM
Post #17 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Jan 21, 2004, 12:38 AM
Post #18 of 106
(15657 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
yeah, you figure-four nancy-boys ... next time do it with a pack. alpine style.
and, skibbs ... you're damn lucky i didn't stop to chop a bivy ledge and slam home a bunch of pins for an anchor.
|
|
|
|
|
timstich
Jan 21, 2004, 1:39 AM
Post #19 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 6267
|
Guys, it sounds like you had a crazy good time. It was nice reading both trip reports. Skibby, if you are ever in town and want me to look at your car's heater, maybe we can get that thing fixed. Run some hoses into a little extra heating coil that just sits in the passenger foot well. That's the ticket. No need to rip out the dash. Heh.
Anyway, looking forward to climbing and hanging out with you guys at the next gig.
-Tim
|
|
|
|
|
jasona
Jan 21, 2004, 2:02 AM
Post #20 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 17, 2002
Posts: 207
|
*********Beer Girl Update***********
Not sure how she tracked me down but I received an email from Beer Girl. I copied and pasted it directly to the forum so you guys would know it was legit and not a piss poor attempt for me feel studly.
"My Dearest Jason,
Of all the free beer parties at all the ice festivals in all the towns in all the world, you walk into mine. I want you to know that I felt something between us that night. It started right after you spilled the first beer all over me but sometime before you spilled the second one. I felt your searing hot gaze on me all night. It was almost as if you were, what's the right word.......... stalking me. I never felt more alive. I didn't know whether to call the cops and have you arrested or just serve you more beer. I am glad I decided the latter. If only you had a shaved head and handlebar mustache I would have taken you right there in the keg room. Tell me we were meant to be together and that I am not just another beer wench in your eyes. I sit here patiently by the tap awaiting your reply.................
all my love, all my passion, and my unlimited supply of New Belgium,
Beer Girl"
There you have it guys. Can't deny proof like that. I am off to shave my head and try and grow some facial hair.
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Jan 21, 2004, 2:16 AM
Post #21 of 106
(15657 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
naw, you don't need a b* tchin mustache (although it helps). just slip her one of [i:a69751ae0c]these[/i:a69751ae0c].
[img:a69751ae0c]http://www.vegiworks.com/pickle.jpg[/img:a69751ae0c]
|
|
|
|
|
skibabeage
Deleted
Jan 21, 2004, 2:18 AM
Post #22 of 106
(15659 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Jan 21, 2004, 3:42 AM
Post #23 of 106
(15657 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
martha wants the piiiickle!
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Jan 21, 2004, 4:18 AM
Post #24 of 106
(15652 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: martha wants the piiiickle!
That's a pickle? I thought you'd found what came out of my ass the morning after all that free beer....felt kind'a nice too!
oh and this is the face I made----> :x
josh
|
|
|
|
|
deleted
Deleted
Jan 21, 2004, 4:18 AM
Post #25 of 106
(15650 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
[img:365d041380]http://www.geocities.com/tradkelly2/10Ouray.jpg[/img:365d041380]
beer girl,
you make my 'stache curl,
you make that head real creamy, baby,
beer girl.
beer girl, i think i love you.
but i wanna' know for sure,
come on, jerk that tap,
i love you.
beer girl,
teeth whiter than pearls,
you make everything groovy, baby,
beer girl.
beer girl, I think you move me.
but, i wanna' know for sure,
come on, pour me a beer.
you move me.
beer girl,
that creamy head swirls,
you pour that brew real groovy, baby,
beer girl.
beer girl.
c'mon, c'mon, beer girl,
shake it, shake it, beer girl ...
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
