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Hooks and Clean Aid
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Partner bouldertom


Jan 31, 2004, 9:47 PM
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Hooks and Clean Aid
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I plan to try aid climbing at a local crag. Is there a good chance that a small hook could rip a hold off of a route in "normal" conditions? I don't want destroy some bitty hold and have the entire climbing community come and kill me.


lambone


Jan 31, 2004, 11:05 PM
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Re: Hooks and Clean Aid [In reply to]
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yes

hooks easily scar the rock. hooking on an established free route is not a good idea.


flamer


Jan 31, 2004, 11:55 PM
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What type of rock are you climbing on?
It's not that big of a deal on hard stuff(granite or the like).
But it can be a serious problem on Sandstone.
Try finding some cracks to aid first, this isn't a big deal.
Some sport'o routes make great hook fest's, and if sport'o get's all tweaked just remind him about the BOLTS in the route.

Seriously though start off aiding some easy (C1) cracks then think about hooking. It's not like hooking is rocket science!! Well for the most part....
HAVE FUN!!
josh


jimdavis


Feb 1, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Re: Hooks and Clean Aid [In reply to]
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If you hook on small stuff you could possibly break it. I blew a chunk of rock off a free climb bounce testing a TCU and felt really bad for doing it. Granted, the rock was rotting and probably would have peeled off had some porker hauled on it. It was on an overhand, and there was some mud behind the chunk. I should have really smacked it to see how it sounded, that way I probably wouldn't have placed that piece.

Be careful aiding on free lines. Go clean, no pins/ bashies. And be sure to test that rock quality before you place a piece.


Partner bouldertom


Feb 1, 2004, 10:08 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback. I plan only to do clean aid but I thought I would experiment with some hooks too. So, I'll save them until I find either an aid climb or some forgotten face of rock.


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