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reprieve
Feb 4, 2004, 6:24 AM
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Can somebody please explain the difference(s) between flashing, redpointing, and onsighting? I have looked at the dictionary of terms and understand what they are basically, but the subtle differences are lost on me, probably mostly because I've never heard anybody use redpointing or onsighting except on the web.
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delarig
Feb 4, 2004, 7:30 AM
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Redpointing= Sending a route, on lead, without taking. Flashing= Sending a route, on lead, on your first try, with beta, without taking. Onsighting= Sending a route, on lead, without taking, on your first try with no prior knowledge of it
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munkeyboy
Feb 4, 2004, 7:41 AM
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In reply to: ...the subtle differences are lost on me, probably mostly because I've never heard anybody use redpointing or onsighting except on the web...
probably b/c the web is one of the few places that it matters. besides the web, the gym, and the climbing mags, it doesn't matter. on the rock you either climb it or you don't.
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toejam
Feb 4, 2004, 9:08 AM
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In reply to: probably b/c the web is one of the few places that it matters. besides the web, the gym, and the climbing mags, it doesn't matter. on the rock you either climb it or you don't.
I disagree. The existence of the terms reflects the vast difference "beta", or knowledge of the route makes in climbing. I don't know what significance these terms would have in a gym but in many cases outdoors if you don't have someone along who can redpoint something, you don't get to climb it.
To flash requires an additional mental effort of preparation, quick recognition and thinking, and a bit of extra endurance to help while you figure things out. I try to take the opportunity to flash new routes when possible, since it is a good skill to have when confronted with a dicey trad route you haven't seen before.
I don't do much onsighting close to my level, but I occasionally take the opportunity. The skill of being able to distinguish the line you can climb from that which you can't comes into play when you get off-route on a long multipitch climb.
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reprieve
Feb 4, 2004, 2:14 PM
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Ah, thanks a lot guys. One more question:
In reply to: Flashing= Sending a route, on lead, on your first try, with beta, without taking. Onsighting= Sending a route, on lead, without taking, on your first try with no prior knowledge of it
what does "taking" mean?
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jkarns
Feb 4, 2004, 2:27 PM
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In reply to: Ah, thanks a lot guys. One more question: what does "taking" mean?
Hanging on the rope. If you had to take on a climb then you did not climb it cleanly, in one push, top to bottom. You rested.
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climbersoze
Feb 4, 2004, 4:28 PM
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In reply to: Redpointing= Sending a route, on lead, without taking. Flashing= Sending a route, on lead, on your first try, with beta, without taking. Onsighting= Sending a route, on lead, without taking, on your first try with no prior knowledge of it
Good way of putting it... don't take offence.. but I am going to try to make it a little more clear...
Redpointing= Sending a route, on lead, without taking, after a number of tries (with beta - duh)
Flashing= redpointing on your first try
Onsighting= Flashing without beta
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reprieve
Feb 4, 2004, 6:04 PM
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thanks again for the clarifications
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keazah
Feb 4, 2004, 6:21 PM
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I think something close to the subject had already been discused...
Check it out...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=50181&highlight=
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scubasnyder
Feb 4, 2004, 6:23 PM
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check climbing terms
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reprieve
Feb 4, 2004, 6:46 PM
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In reply to: check climbing terms
read posts before you reply to them
In reply to: I have looked at the dictionary of terms and understand what they are basically, but the subtle differences are lost on me |
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mrme
Feb 4, 2004, 7:07 PM
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taking=waiting the rope
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toejam
Feb 5, 2004, 1:05 AM
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"Take" is a signal that is synonymous with "Tension" with the added implication that the climber intends to weight the rope.
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sharpender
Feb 5, 2004, 1:51 AM
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OK Kids, It's Ok to have onsight mean all that perfection stuff. I must presume that you are talking about sport climbing. In my little corner of the world, onsight means to lead with never having climbed the route before. I must clarify that in most instances this onsight is of a multi-pitch trad route. Walk up to the climb, tie in and start climbing. What happens next has everything to do with your ability as a climber and a leader but fall, rest, whatever - every move is new and thus an onsight. Flash means to climb it with out falling, taking or rehearsing the moves. For me it's a flash if I climb it even if I watch joe hot stuff flash it five minutes ago. Sure it probably would be better to call it a cruise but if I climb at my highest level without struggle I am flashing. Just my personal perspective.
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reprieve
Feb 5, 2004, 2:43 AM
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that's cool sharpender. many things in climbing are relative (ratings for example - what i think is a V3 somebody else might think is a V2), so i think it's cool that you have your own perspective on it, i just wanted to get the differences between them straight
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 5, 2004, 2:13 PM
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All these terms should be mainly for your use only so you can keep a record of what climbs you did and in what style. This is to chart your own progress. If someone came up to me and said "hey dude, I just onsight flashed that route," I would probably laugh at him.
Josh
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reprieve
Feb 5, 2004, 4:24 PM
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hmm...well either I'm not the type of climber to "track my progress" or I'm not that good yet...I just climb whatever I can whenever I can because it's fun, not really interested in making a long list of ascents or something like that. maybe that'll change someday for me
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 5, 2004, 4:57 PM
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In reply to: hmm...well either I'm not the type of climber to "track my progress" or I'm not that good yet...I just climb whatever I can whenever I can because it's fun, not really interested in making a long list of ascents or something like that. maybe that'll change someday for me
That's how you are supposed to start. Terms are good to know so that you know what the hell people are talking about, but it looks like you have the right attitude. Climb for FUN! I like to set goals and challenges for myself, so I like to track what I have accomplished, which so far, isn't much.
Josh
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