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cliffhunger
Mar 3, 2004, 6:22 PM
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bvb, people usually like to gossip about anything remotely "famous".
When it comes down to it tho, they remain pretty cool in front of "stardom".
Don't you like to gossip about the exploits of your friends, and exaggerate a bit to make a better story, (snow, cars, spinning, almost died, bvb)? I mean, its fun to share such stories. If it is about someone most people know by name, its easier to share, because they have an idea of the character.
In climbing, socializing is facilitated with "famous" people by the simple fact that the crags and boudlers belong to everyone. Climbing is friendly, climbers are friendly and accomodating, and like to do stuff with fellow climbers. Same goes for stronger climbers.
Being "zen" about climbing fame is also facilitated by the fact that climbers are fewer in numbers, and less likely to be worshipping morons.
Huh, this post is getting long... OH... about La Zébrée... it's a "last great problem", an aid route that almost went free this fall thanks to the efforts of our own Jeff Beaulieu. It would not be the most interesting project around the province as for pure climbing difficulty.
There is an old project at Orford that is a good contender for the first 14b or c in the province. Another project there would probably go at around 14+, and there is a very brutally hard project being bolted that would probably kick anyone, including Chris', ass.
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shakylegs
Mar 3, 2004, 6:39 PM
Post #27 of 39
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BS, are you talking about the 14 in La Pocatière?
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cliffhunger
Mar 3, 2004, 7:29 PM
Post #28 of 39
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Setting the record straight as to hard routes in Quebec:
Prémutation 14a (La Pocatière) FA summer 2000 (Mat Fontaine)
Repeats: Sonnie Trotter, Nick Sagar, Canardo, Sacha.
Cassiopée (Baldi) FA summer 2001 (Mat Fontaine)
No repeats.
La Muerte 13d, maybe 14a FA summer 2001 (Mat Fontaine)
No repeats.
Victory 13d/14a, maybe 14a FA summer 2002 (Mat Fontaine)
No repeats.
Nibars 14a (probably hard 14a) FA summer 2003 (Mat Fontaine)
No repeats.
Those routes are at an access sensitive crag.
Alpha Beta 14a/b (Orford) FA fall 2003, Sacha.
No repeats.
There is also an old toprope projet that was finally sent this year at Mont Wright near Quebec city by Jan Dedonder, and given the 14a grade.
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wonder1978
Mar 4, 2004, 9:10 PM
Post #29 of 39
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Thanks Cliff, or Mat, whichever you prefer.
It does set the record straight.
So, what about that zebre? is anyone gonna send that anytime soon? that'd be nice.
cheers
W.
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bvb
Mar 5, 2004, 5:20 AM
Post #30 of 39
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**bvb, people usually like to gossip about anything remotely "famous".
When it comes down to it tho, they remain pretty cool in front of "stardom".
Don't you like to gossip about the exploits of your friends, and exaggerate a bit to make a better story, (snow, cars, spinning, almost died, bvb)? I mean, its fun to share such stories. If it is about someone most people know by name, its easier to share, because they have an idea of the character.**
it's hard to respond to that without spray. i guess i'll just say that most of my best freinds are climbers, i've know them all for 25-30-35 years, and they've all wound up on the covers of magazines, or shooting magazine covers, or playing an integral role in some ground-breaking ascent at some point.
so, that's the baggage i bring to this question. it's hard for me to get preoccupied with other climbers who are climbing hard -- i'm just more into my own scene. i spend ZERO time talking and or thinking about anyone who is not a close freind, or at leat an aquaintance or a freind of a freind.
to sum it up briefly, over the last 20 years of so, there has been a vast increase in the commen preoccupation with what the sponsored climbers are up to.
and that's exactly the way much of the "industry" wants it.
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brothersolstice
Mar 6, 2004, 2:20 PM
Post #31 of 39
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Nope, not 'La Pocatiere'
Not Orford, Val David, Weir or any other of the usual suspects.
I hate to be cryptic, but alas, I did not bold the route and am under strict orders.
But anyone is welcome to try it, just drop me a line (pm or email) and I'll tell you where it is.
BS
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cliffhunger
Mar 8, 2004, 4:35 PM
Post #32 of 39
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I'm not Mat, and I seriously doubt he would start spraying generally known info around some website.
There are a number of hard projects around the province. The crag with La Muerte/Victory/Nibars on it has some, Orford has some, access sensitive crags in Kamouraska have some, Baldi has some, even this little unkown crag where I bolted one myself... there is also that old "Cousin Germain" project on the Cap-Blanc crag.
If it isn't far from a city, then tell me... ça tombera pas dans l'oreille d'un sourd!
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e_wire
Mar 8, 2004, 4:44 PM
Post #33 of 39
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I think Sharma was also seen with Elvis and Marilyn Monroe at a 7/11 in Ontario...
e_wire
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wonder1978
Mar 9, 2004, 12:48 AM
Post #34 of 39
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Sorry cliff, didn't mean any disrespect. I knew you weren't Mat, I just couldn't resist the temptation, since I figured you probably knew him, you being in the same place and all, I just meant it in a funny way, and I know for a fact that Mat wouldn't spray about it (judging from the quick encounter I had with him)
cheers,
W.
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cliffhunger
Mar 9, 2004, 3:27 PM
Post #35 of 39
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To quote him:
"ouin genre.... huhuhhahahahah.... hin hin.... man oublie ça.... t'hallucines!"
No worries.
Still waiting for that info, brothersolstice.
wonder, have we met? If you visited Orford in the last year, maybe.
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wonder1978
Mar 9, 2004, 4:21 PM
Post #36 of 39
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We probably have Cliff, It's such a small world. I have an old buddy who's a real active guy in the Quebec climbing scene so I ended up being introduced to pretty much all the guys you mentionned in your previous post. All great guys I have to add. And although I haven't been climbing much in the past few years, you might have seen me at Orford or Baldi, belaying someone, or rolling joints. :wink:
cheers,
W
ps. I plan on climbing a lot more this summer, so if you do see me at the crag (a lot of people do call me wonder) and I'm chilling on the ground, give me a good kick in the a**, I'll probably deserve it.
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shakylegs
Mar 9, 2004, 4:23 PM
Post #37 of 39
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"wow man, ça va? coooool. ouin, boréale cuivrée, man, c'est l'meilleur."
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genevieve
Mar 9, 2004, 5:50 PM
Post #38 of 39
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Euh... c'est celà! :wink:
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cliffhunger
Mar 9, 2004, 9:23 PM
Post #39 of 39
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"me, dis-toi, Picnic c'est faaacile."
"pfff ben non man, c'est faaacile"
"ouin han.... c'est hard ce truuuc"
"huhu hen hen"
"t'as tu vu la chyx... ouin... hen hen"
You might have heard about a very peculiarly-shaped chalkbag.
That was me.
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