rockfax
Mar 18, 2004, 7:48 PM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2001
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CLIMBING ACCESS ROUND UP
Land managers working hard with a helping hand from the Eastern Sierra Climber's Coalition
By Mick Ryan
Whilst the climbers are out at the rocks pulling hard on shallow pockets and spotting each other should they fall, the local land management agencies, a local climber organization, the climbers Access Fund and several local climbers are watching their backs also, successfully managing the climbing areas where they play.
The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) has been very busy recently managing climbing on the Volcanic Tableland. The biggest news is the collaboration between BLM, Department of Water and Power, and Inyo County to install a parking area and trail on Chalk Bluff Road at the base of the Sad Boulders canyon. This parking area will be similar to the Happy Boulders parking area with a porta-toilet and notice board. The BLM and local climbers working together will improve the trail from the Chalk Bluff Road to the Sad Boulders. Access to the Sad Boulders via Caso Diablo Road will be discouraged. The back road is rough and the upper parking lot is small so it won't take much persuasion for climbers to use the front access via Chalk Bluff Road. If needed the Happy Boulders parking area will be improved to accommodate more cars.
After the controversial precautionary, seasonal and voluntary ban of foot traffic on the western Volcanic Tableland (not the Happy and the Sad boulders) the BLM are planning to do a more comprehensive ecological study of raptors. This study is hoped to encompass not just the Tableland but the whole of the Owens Valley around Bishop. The objective is to gain a greater understanding of the ecological, climatic, and human factors that may influence the population dynamics of these important top predators, and ultimately to gain knowledge of how to manage the area for the benefit of all, raptors and humans alike. Funding is being sought and so far the American Alpine Club have offered to part fund the project which shall hopefully be carried out by professional scientists of the Point Reyes Bird Observatory.
In other studies, the BLM have also secured funds from the OHV community to do a comprehensive study of cultural sites on the Volcanic Tableland which will be conducted by Kirk Halford, the BLM archaeologist and an additional research fellow who will be paid from these generous funds (for further details please contact the BLM).
There is also good news for campers at the BLM Pleasant Valley Winter campground, known as the Pit. The BLM have purchased a CXT pre-cast concrete toilet to replace the expensive-to-empty porta-toilets. This luxurious commode, if you'll pardon the French, will be installed before next season's influx of winter climbing visitors. This installation has been partly funded by the climbers Access Fund who donated $9,750 specifically for the new toilets, bringing the total Access Fund grants to climbing projects in the Bishop area to over $14,000 in 2003, and over $26,000 since 2000.
Up at the Buttermilk's Peabody Boulders the US Forest Service (FS) have also been busy doing studies on how people and car impacts can be managed, stabilized and hopefully reduced. The Buttermilk Country is a true multi-use area, presently and historically, but the increase in the popularity of climber's bouldering there has put a lot of pressure on this area. Two concerns of the Forest Service are sanitation and parking, and they are investigating installing CXT toilets and formalizing the parking by constructing two parking areas out of natural materials. They prepared an Environmental Assessment and users have had the opportunity to comment on the FS rational and proposed alternatives. Most users agree that sanitation is an important issue along with encroachment of vehicles on to the delicate high desert vegetation, but many were concerned about the position of the top parking area and the effect it would have on the view shed of the Sierra Nevada from the area. The Forest Service will make their decision soon.
After several years of individuals and the climber's Access Fund representing the national climbing community locally, the Eastern Sierra, in line with other climbing destination areas in the US, now has a formal "climbing council" to help represent climbers interests. Called the "Eastern Sierra Climbers Coalition" (ESCC) their mission statement is to "preserve the climbing environment and access to climbing areas through stewardship, education, and community outreach." The ESCC is endorsed by the climbers national body the Access Fund and is focussing on being a forum for all climbers (both local and visitors) and members of the community to voice their concern about specific climbing issues around the highway 395 corridor.
Presently there are nine ESCC boards members: Sarah Schneider, Tony Puppo, Scott Justham, Clark Trowell, Zeke Federman, Jaime Stewart, Greg Haverstock, Tim Steele, and Paul Rasmussen, with Schneider and Federman being the important land manager liaison team.
The ESCC board has commented on the Buttermilk parking and toilets plan, been on site visits, consulted with land managers, has had several meetings and is getting a start up grant from the Access Fund. The ESCC are planning to have a website up and running soon where you can register to join this group, so far they have a mailing list of 50 names. Some estimates put the Eastern Sierra climber population at over a thousand and if you want to be represented by the ESCC get in contact with them when they get online. The ESCC are also appointing a communications officer who will spread the word via press releases, email lists, by articles in the Inyo Register and Mammoth Times, in newsletters and online, so that all will be informed about current developments and proposals in the climbing management of the Eastern Sierra and Sierra Nevada climbing areas. The group will also be having regular public meetings to which everyone is invited. One of the first actions the group is involved in will be the improvement of the trail from Chalk Bluff Road to the Sad Boulders canyon in collaboration with the BLM and FS trail specialist Marty Hornick.
In addition to the ESCC, climbers are also represented by the Access Fund's local rep', Bob Harrington. A 30-year plus Bishop local, hydrologist and SAR member, Harrington also made comment recently on the FS plans up at the Buttermilk. He can be contacted at bobh@qnet.com. If you want to watch your own back you are of course encouraged to make individual comment on any land management issues directly to land mangers or attend the "Interagency Bouldering (and Climbing) Group" meetings. Contact your public servants at the BLM and the USFS to learn more.
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