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pianomahnn
Mar 19, 2004, 6:04 AM
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So, numbers can lick my sizak.
However, I'm a gym routesetter, and the numbers are just part of the world.
So. . .I'm working on setting a 13c/d, maybe even 14a/b route.
I'm noit even sure if it's possible. . .it has to be.
So, whats the hardest you've seen in a gym? I don't give a shit if you did it, just if it existed.
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incogneato
Mar 19, 2004, 6:11 AM
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In France I have seen 8b+s inside, In my home gym the hardest was a 13d, and at the gym over town there is a 14a which is a nice 13c if you add two holds to clip.
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alwaysforward
Mar 19, 2004, 7:50 AM
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Your gym population is that strong? Pimp gym.
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barefeetnochalk
Mar 19, 2004, 11:23 AM
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The highest i have seen is 26 (5.12b) and V9 but we dont have too many gyms round here.
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drrock
Mar 19, 2004, 12:29 PM
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edit
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christophpahl
Mar 19, 2004, 1:04 PM
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http://competitie.climbing.nl/e=8c2/english.html - a competition 'bout FA of an indoors 8c.
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missedyno
Mar 19, 2004, 2:39 PM
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my bouldering gym has up to V11 -
rumour has it that at my other gym, there was a 13b set - and a full time (outdoor) climber came in, sent it, and said it was only 12D or so. ONLY 12D!!!
so i guess you can call it whatever grade you want, but you'll need the opinion of someone familiar with that grade to confirm...
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boss
Mar 19, 2004, 3:20 PM
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Saw a 13b/c within the last few months.
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xcel360
Mar 19, 2004, 3:23 PM
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The hardest route I saw in my gym in Florida was a .13c. It started about 40 feet left of the lead wall with an overhang on a very steep section, then transistioned through the steapest parts of the gym to the lead roof, then you could pull the roof. All on the smallest of holds I'm sure. You couldn't TR it due to it's traverse. You could only lead it.
I'm sure it's definetly possible to set really difficult routes in gyms, especially nowadays with all these great new holds coming out. They even have world famous boulder problems packaged together in hold sets now! Also depends on how past vertical the walls in your gym are. I'm sure that Earth Treks Timonium has a wall that could probably have .14's set on it. Check their site for pics.
<=glen=>
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tradman
Mar 19, 2004, 4:18 PM
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It's prefectly possible to set extremely hard grades indoor.
The gym I climb at has a scale of 1 to 10, where 1 is basically a ladder, and 10 is 8a (about 5.13b).
Recently, the system has been upgraded because some of the stronger climbers were complaining about lack of availability at the top end. So a line consisting of very thin screw-on holds on a 45 degree overhang was added by Niall McNair (search), which he put at 11 (someplace in the low 5.14s), and which was promptly onsight flashed by Gary Vincent (search).
Gary's now working on a newer and even harder line of extreme fingernail crimpers on another overhang, which he's given 12. Nobody's sent it yet, including Gary, but I know it's been tried by at least two climbers with confirmed 5.14a/b routes under their belts, and both agreed that it's "brick hard" (trans: nearly impossible).
What's the limit? Don't know. All I can say for sure is that I feel like a right dead weight climbing beside those guys...
:wink:
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maika
Mar 19, 2004, 6:17 PM
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I'm pretty sure that we've had a .13 in our gym, but right now we onle have .12c/d and a V10.
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dredsovrn
Mar 19, 2004, 6:35 PM
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Mostly I see .11's as the harder climbs in the gym. A few .12's and an occasional .13. I did a .11d once and it was brutal. Way harder than some outdoor stuff I have done, but it may just not have been my style. A gym .13 is hard to imagine, but I can't climb any .13 at this point. Who is going to climb it in the gym anyway?
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jt512
Mar 19, 2004, 6:41 PM
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In reply to: So, numbers can lick my sizak. However, I'm a gym routesetter, and the numbers are just part of the world. So. . .I'm working on setting a 13c/d, maybe even 14a/b route. I'm noit even sure if it's possible. . .it has to be. So, whats the hardest you've seen in a gym? I don't give a s--- if you did it, just if it existed.
We had a route set by Jason Campbell and Kodee Weir that went at either 13d or 14a, I'm not sure which. I think those two were the only ones who sent it.
We generally have one or two 13a's up.
-Jay
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karmaklimber
Mar 19, 2004, 6:57 PM
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The hardest boulder problem I've seen set in the gym I normally go to is a V12.
Hardest route I've seen was a 5.13
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jt512
Mar 19, 2004, 6:59 PM
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In reply to: So. . .I'm working on setting a 13c/d, maybe even 14a/b route. I'm noit even sure if it's possible. . .it has to be.
It's possible, but if you can't send it, how will you be able to rate it?
-Jay
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ikefromla
Mar 19, 2004, 7:08 PM
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i've seen 13c/d. Hard 13's and 14's are set all the time for comps. at world cup difficulty comps the routes have to be brutally hard to spit off some of those competitors.
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fullahsiffur
Mar 19, 2004, 7:43 PM
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My gym has a VERTICAL, yes VERTICAL, 13 b/c. Ninety feet on thin egdes and cracks, no plastic holds. The only thing 'plastic' about it is that it is man-made and indoors.
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madman_dan
Mar 19, 2004, 8:04 PM
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My gym was host to a recent bouldering comp and they had a replica of Black Lung set up which i believe is a V13. Needless to say no one got it.
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photon
Mar 19, 2004, 8:55 PM
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no it's impossible. Didn't you read the instructions that came with the holds? Can only be used for setting routes up to 5.12c. Even if you put one hold at the top of wall, nothing else, the routes .12c---
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incogneato
Mar 19, 2004, 9:06 PM
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In reply to: In our gym the super hard ones aren't even labeled. Since the #'s don't seem to translate to rock very well, it would be hard to grade. I think 5.hard would do it.
Yah, the same with our gym, they stay unrated (5.hard, V hard). Usually the strong climbers and route setters come to some agreement on the grade.
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daggerx
Mar 19, 2004, 9:48 PM
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I mang. a gym and set all the boulder problem "not routes" but Ive set around V12's but dont go much higher.
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incogneato
Mar 19, 2004, 10:00 PM
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In reply to: i've seen 13c/d. Hard 13's and 14's are set all the time for comps. at world cup difficulty comps the routes have to be brutally hard to spit off some of those competitors.
yah, but these are on world cup standard walls. 20+ meters high with lots of unrelenting angles.
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litleclimberchick
Mar 19, 2004, 10:32 PM
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the hardest route i've seen at my gym was a .13a/b
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rmiller
Mar 19, 2004, 10:45 PM
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I believe Kevin Thaw had a 14a set at Rockreation in LA when he was managing the route setting.
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madmax
Mar 19, 2004, 11:07 PM
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There's this really tough 5.8 in our gym. Nobody has been able to send it. Anyone wanna try? Oh, yeah, we also have a stout V0.
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