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metoliusshawn
Apr 9, 2004, 5:29 PM
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ss
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areyoumydude
Apr 10, 2004, 1:50 AM
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How do you connect it to your harness? Is it sewn into the rings or girth hitched? Is it one piece or two?
Thanx, Larry
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therealbovine
Apr 13, 2004, 8:11 PM
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Larry,
Is this what you call R&D?
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areyoumydude
Apr 13, 2004, 9:05 PM
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I checked on your web-site and didn't see it. Just curious. Just like you.
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therealbovine
Apr 15, 2004, 2:25 PM
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Larry,
I guess your right. As long as this curiosity doesn't kill us - like the cat...
Like I said we have many variations. I'll go through a few:
One is a doubled leash. 1" web threaded with 9/16". The 9/16" continues to form a complete runner, while the 1" stops at a bite on each end. All is bar tacked. We sell this one with or without steel ring(s). Typical length is 5'.
A variation to this might be (2) peices of 1" sewn side to side, with or without the steel ring(s).
Another Variation has a "aider like" pull loop for getting back up to the line in the case of a tether fall.
All leashes currently attach to your harness via (2) opposing, locking carabiners.
The leash must be pre-threaded onto the line (if you have the "ring" models).
Your climbing rope leash seems to be the best "tie your own" method out there. Seems like the common sense choice to me anyway. Sewn of course is nice because the knots don't catch on the line in the case of a leash-fall, which can cuase a "shock-load" effect to your entire system.
We can do any custom work you might desire as well. This is important since a vast majority of Highliners are innovating there own ideas of what is better and what they want to use for themselves.
The "rings" are far superior to carabiners on the line, for obvious reasons such as; carabiners can open and/or break, Locking carabiners typically have "sharp" edges on the locking mechanism, which has the potential to catch on, and even cut the line, not to mention that they are designed to be weighted lengthwise, which is hard to guarantee for our use.
So there you go. Let me know if I can answer any more Q's for you.
Take care and best of luck to all of you @ NFC!
Sean @ Ethos
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tylerm
Apr 15, 2004, 2:30 PM
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What is this, an advertizing page? Go back to the circus with all your highline crizap...
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therealbovine
Apr 15, 2004, 3:14 PM
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Tyler Mark,
In reply to: What is this, an advertizing page? Go back to the circus with all your highline crizap...
No different then you "advertising" your personal dislike for our post and disrespect to all who highline?
Try "Answers to posted questions", much like this response to you.
Have a nice day.
Sean
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tylerm
Apr 15, 2004, 3:28 PM
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Thanks, Sean, I will!
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theturtle
Apr 15, 2004, 5:01 PM
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tylerm - have a nice day! Bye.
Sean @ Ethos - Thanks for describing the leashes, they sound interesting. I posted several pics that show how Larry and I do R+D on highline leashes, so don't worry, we don't have to get our ideas from RC.com.
Is it wierd to clip the leash into your harness instead of tying in directly? It seems that if you would want to not use 'biners to attach to the line, the same would be true for your harness. I've always thought that tying directly in was considered safer. Just curious - like a cat.
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areyoumydude
Apr 16, 2004, 3:33 PM
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Thanks for the info Sean.
Peace, Larry
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therealbovine
Apr 16, 2004, 5:21 PM
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Guys,
Your absolutley correct, tying into your leash would be ultimatley safer, as you are eliminating a "link in the chain". The reason we go with the "two locking & opposed" carabiner attachment is more for convenience from one slacker to the next. Its redundant, and we are not concerned with the issues related to using carabiners on the line end of the leash (ie; cutting, cross-loading, etc.). Its also nice not to have a welded knot to untie after a leash fall. I have had no issues with the carabiners being in the way or feeling uncomfortable. Feels about the same as a tied leash on your harness.
Sean
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thegodfather
Apr 16, 2004, 5:30 PM
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what? who uses a leash when highlining?
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slacklinejoe
Apr 16, 2004, 7:51 PM
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For anyone worried about cross loading on a leash there are solutions. As has been noted, using the rings on the main line will work very well except for having to thread them, but in addition recently a new belay biner came out (sorry I'm not up on the specifics on it) that has a plastic plate cliped in the center portion after the biner is locked so the rope can't flop in a cross loaded position. Frankly duct tape will do the same thing but at least it's an idea that can reduce one potential problem.
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therealbovine
Apr 22, 2004, 7:31 PM
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SlacklineJoe-it-all,
The biner you are referring to does not solve the problems related to highline leash attachment. That is why the carabiner is called the "Belay" biner, and not the "Highline Leash" biner. If you don't have the answers, don't post. You saying "sorry I'm not up on the specifics on it" tell me and everyone else reading this post that you do not know the answers. Please don't mislead the masses in the future.
Carabiners are a poor choice when the option of rings is available. No matter what you do to keep the carabiner from crossloading, it will still have to be able to move from one side to the other (on the highline). If you take a leash fall, the biner will shift to the side you fall on. If the biner is laying perfectly on the line, but your leash is hanging opposite of the fall direction, the biner then has to rotate up, around and over the highline. When this is happeneing the locking mechanism, tape, gate or whatever else that is not a smooth surface will catch, if only for a split second, on the highline. This can/has/will increase the possibility that the line would frey, melt, cut and even fail. The above information was gained through years of product testing and experience.
Use rings! Time tested and proven.
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coylec
Apr 22, 2004, 8:46 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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what kind of rings are you using?
coylec
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