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j_from_the_307
Apr 12, 2004, 3:51 PM
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On the Petzl site it has a video of Dave Graham and Jerome Meyer on "Crack Pit" (7c). I can't find any information on it, other than it looks like it is from the Petzl Roc Trip while they were in Bishop (from the caption). There's not an entry in the routes database (didn't expect one).
Anybody seen this or know where it is? Looks like fun.
--J
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pyrosis
Apr 12, 2004, 4:43 PM
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Sure doesn't look like Bishop to me. Way too much vegetation in the one shot where the camera pans around.
Tavis
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flyinghatchet
Apr 12, 2004, 7:17 PM
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I'm gonna move this to the west coast forum, it'll prolly get some better replies there, eh?
Graison
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flyinghatchet
Apr 12, 2004, 7:18 PM
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flyinghatchet moved this thread from Bouldering to US - West Coast.
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mnanao
Apr 12, 2004, 8:14 PM
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I dont think thats bishop, or on the west coast for that matter.
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maculated
Apr 12, 2004, 8:38 PM
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Your first tip off should be the rating: 7c isn't an American rating system, is it?
Sounds English or French to me.
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moeman
Apr 12, 2004, 8:43 PM
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In reply to: Sounds English or French to me.
Don't be silly. Euros don't crack climb...
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maculated
Apr 12, 2004, 8:52 PM
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Well, since we all know that the only worthwhile cracks are in Yosemite . . . it's gotta be there. Must be an easy climb. I have no idea at what point 5.7 becomes 5.7c. :P
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moeman
Apr 12, 2004, 8:56 PM
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In reply to: Well, since we all know that the only worthwhile cracks are in Yosemite . . . it's gotta be there. Must be an easy climb. I have no idea at what point 5.7 becomes 5.7c. :P
5.7b at most. Come on people, its just a little roof.
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maculated
Apr 12, 2004, 9:04 PM
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Reading comprehension helps here. I felt like looking: If you go click on the link and read about the ROC Trip, you'll find that it started in France's Bonneville Sur Arc, and then went on to Bishop.
Damn Frenchies and their easy climbs. 7b is more like it, moeman!
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j_from_the_307
Apr 13, 2004, 12:02 AM
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Well, thanks for the response guys. I was thinking it was somewhere over the water until I caught the Bishop caption... Thought 7c was wierd for an American climb.
Dave Graham makes it look really hard, but he's a sport climber. Sure, he put up The Fly at 5.14d, but look at how many times he falls on an easy 5.7c crack. I was thinking to myself, "Dude... If only he had used a simple knee-elbow-nose stack balanced out by a solid ear smear, then a one arm throw out to the good pinkie crimp at the edge of the roof he could have flashed it! I bet out here at Vedauwoo it'd only go at 5.5d/5.6a since those moves are the basics of any local's arsenal. See end of post for definitions of bold moves and other items.
So.. anybody got any other ideas? I'm thinking of asking Petzl for more details. By the way, here's the link to the video I'm asking about:
http://www.petzl.com/...atic/Video/index.jsp
It's under Bouldering.
Maybe we should bump this to the "That other place over the big blue wet thing" forum. Someone over there ought to know.
--J
Vedauwoo: A pile of off-width-ridden granite in south eastern Wyoming near Laramie known for its flesh eating crystals. The name was chosen for its dual meaning. It is a Native American term for "Earthborn Spirit" and a local term for "*cough*SaNdBaG*cough*".
knee-elbow-nose stack: A move commonly used to climb extremely flaring and overhung offwidth cracks. The trick is in using the natural camming action of your nose. Think tri-cam.
good pinkie crimp: Credit for the first psycopath to think this move up goes to my partner, petsfed. The name of the move seems descriptive enough, but don't be fooled. These three words should NEVER be used together in succession, let alone in the same sentence, even if you are trying to be absurd. While sometimes you may be forced to hang on by your pinkie it is neither "good" nor a "crimp".
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moeman
Apr 13, 2004, 12:44 AM
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In reply to: Vedauwoo: A pile of off-width-ridden granite in south eastern Wyoming near Laramie known for its flesh eating crystals. The name was chosen for its dual meaning. It is a Native American term for "Earthborn Spirit" and a local term for "*cough*SaNdBaG*cough*".
MMMnnn flesh eating crystals... I sure am missing those slabs- and sandbags
In reply to: knee-elbow-nose stack: A move commonly used to climb extremely flaring and overhung offwidth cracks. The trick is in using the natural camming action of your nose. Think tri-cam.
Plus, it will wear away at your nose. Great for anyone with a big nostril. Think free nose job.
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boltfreak18
Apr 13, 2004, 3:25 AM
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I think its in the shawangunks. During the petzl roc-trip 2002
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maculated
Apr 13, 2004, 3:43 AM
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Reading comprehension again . . . it's in France. I told you that. The ROC trip started there.
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