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elvis
Apr 24, 2004, 4:41 PM
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Hi
I am planning on doing some bolting and cleaning in a new area and to facilitate this I will be setting a 100m static in from above to use as my highway up and down the crag. But my question is this as I am have to do 3 hour hike to get to the top of the 70 m crag over some dodgey terrain and was wondering if I should leave the rope in as I am not going to be able to finish all my work in one weekend and will leave the rope in for 6 days . Now I know this will shorten the life of my rope but I don't make a habit of this will it reck the rope that much ???? It gets very hot out here with the midday temratures at the moment at 45 degrees C
Please I would like to add that Rap bolting is an acepted method here due to the poor quality and nature of the unexplored rock out here making lead bolting impossible so please no lectures on ethics etc Thank you
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sspssp
Apr 24, 2004, 4:46 PM
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I wouldn't worry about it, especially with a static line. Ropes will eventually "bleach out" if left continually in the sun, but it takes a while. Many of the fixed ropes in Yosemite get left for months (if not years) before they are replaced and climbers use them to rap (and/or jug). And the fixed rope is usually a rope that has already been used extensively and then "retired" to use as a fixed line.
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elvis
Apr 24, 2004, 4:51 PM
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Thanks you just saved me a 3 hour slog
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coldclimb
Apr 25, 2004, 7:22 AM
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Everything I've ever read says it really sucks for your rope.
Honestly though, I left a rope hanging in a tree for two whole summers and then proceeded to take lead falls on it. Not something I would do unless absolutely forced into it, but it worked. I think six days is just fine.
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kungfuclimber
Apr 25, 2004, 8:24 AM
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Be less concerned about the sun and more about the wind. While your rope is fixed the wind can saw your rope over a sharp edge, over and over. If its running over a sharp edge consider putting down a rope pad or something.
Do a search about people jugging up fixed lines only to find them partly cut.
Have fun!
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sspssp
Apr 25, 2004, 3:40 PM
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Thats a good point about the wind. Make sure you get the bottom well anchored.
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takeit4granite
Apr 25, 2004, 3:54 PM
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I have also left ropes fixed for long periods through snow, ice, sun, rain with minimal problems. I even have a pice of 11mm static fixed on an alpine ridge that has been insitu for 6 years, it is a little stiff now but still plenty strong.
The thing to worry about is wind as mentioned before as well as rodents. Pack rats will nibble on fixed ropes and can do a lot of damage!
The final and most disturbing thing to worry about is humans. Morons may tamper with your line if it is within sight of a trail. Having had severl close calls in the past, human interferance is the thing I worry about the most.
To err on the side of caution while working your route bring along a short section of climbing rope and tie off short on a bolt or two you are working near, it may save your life!
Good luck with your project.
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elvis
Apr 25, 2004, 4:57 PM
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The human factor out here is not a problem ther are only a hand full of climbers who use the area 20 or so and I know all of them and send e-mails to all telling them not to tamper with the ropes the area is very remote and you need a 4 wheel drive vehicle to get there Not many hikers out here too as the summer day time temps can get as high as 55 degress C so its only us die hard crazy climbers who brave the heat. The only Thing I might have to worry about are the mounatin goats as they aet every thing and have been know to eat rucksacs while you up on climbs but I will tie the rope up high out of there reach. Thanks for all the help great to see no abuse as when ever I post on this forum you get some wise arse that will find something to bitch about.
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daisuke
Apr 25, 2004, 5:36 PM
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daisuke moved this thread from General to Gear Heads.
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bsignorelli
Apr 25, 2004, 7:51 PM
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If all you are trying to do is avoid hiking the rope in and out too many times then you could consider pulling the rope and storing it on site in a "sun proof" container. This would eliminate animal/water/sun/wind damage.
Put it in a secure container and then secure that container in a safe location. Retrive said container upon your return and re-rig it in total confidence.
Bryan
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dietzpa
Apr 25, 2004, 9:28 PM
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another option:
tie a leader line to the end of the rope and pull it through.
when you return just tie your rope into it again and pull your static back through.
any thin twine you get at the hardware store will do - and only cost you about 2 bucks.
people wont tamper with it and certainly wont dare use it to climb on.
If its gone you can blame those mountain goats.
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lazide
Apr 26, 2004, 12:12 AM
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In reply to: another option: tie a leader line to the end of the rope and pull it through. when you return just tie your rope into it again and pull your static back through. any thin twine you get at the hardware store will do - and only cost you about 2 bucks. people wont tamper with it and certainly wont dare use it to climb on. If its gone you can blame those mountain goats.
bwaha, using twine as a messenger line for 70M+ of 11mm static line :roll:
The nylon used in climbing ropes is UV stabilized (has been for a long time) - sun by itself won't weaken it. Do be careful about wind and sharp edges, and I would suggest getting familiar with the concept of rebelaying the line to avoid excess wear and grey hairs (or head lossage!)
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elvis
Apr 26, 2004, 5:11 AM
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bsignorelli you seem to have misundertood I need to walk up for 3 hours to get to the top of the crag it is 70+/- m high(not exactly sure yet haven't been down it) then I will drill a set of hangers and chains in at top and tie one end of the 100m static in to the new chains the rest of the static is coiled in a large duffel bag and hangs off my back I then rappell down and clean the route with a crow bar and brushes and at the points were the belay stations will be at 25 to 30m intervals I will place more chains I rappel all the way down cleaning the whole route. Then I plan on leaving the rope in so I can jug up it next week to place topropes in the new chains to climb the pitches and mark were the lead bolts have to go then down again and jug up again to drill and place the lead bolts. so pulling the rope out and storing it in a bin means I have to walk up round to the top again to place the rope were jugging up the fixed line I leave in will save me time. Also dietzpa not sure I understand how I am going to pull in an 100m of 11mm static up a 70m crag with twine how will it pass through up above and then I will have only 50m of the cragged roped ?? Can you clarify?
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robmcc
Apr 26, 2004, 6:07 PM
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6 days of sun == 3 weekends of climbing. I certainly don't retire my ropes after 3 weekends of climbing.
It's worth pointing out that with all this paranoia about getting some sun on the ropes, we do it all the time. If sun is damaging to your nylon gear, it's no less damaging when you're using it. If 6 days of climbing isn't enough perceived UV damage to retire the static line, neither is 6 days of hanging there.
Rob
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