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saagax
Apr 27, 2004, 4:07 PM
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Discussing with my girlfriend we got in to a stupid discusson but I´m still courios, wich is the hardest grade a women has ever climbed?
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bandycoot
Apr 27, 2004, 4:25 PM
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I'm going to butcher the name here, but there is a European woman by the name of Josune Berziatu who has climbed at least 5.14c/d. She was progressing a letter grade a year for a while, it was pretty cool! I don't remember if she's done a 5.14d, but it's possible. That lady CRANKS!
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jkarns
Apr 27, 2004, 4:26 PM
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Josune Bereciartu ... Bain de sang ... 9a
... unless this has been bested (probably again by Josune ... nobody can touch her)
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reno
Apr 27, 2004, 4:40 PM
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The Nose.
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bandycoot
Apr 27, 2004, 4:42 PM
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Egad! I should have thought of that one! :lol: How did I forget? :?:
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boltdude
Apr 27, 2004, 4:44 PM
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Although based on the number of men to climb the same route free, it's the Nose, Lynn Hill rated it 13+ but no one has repeated it. And didn't the Hubers say that Zodiac was the hardest thing they've done, and it's 13+ despite those guys doing lots of 14 sport?
So, in my opinion - hardest number grade climbed - definitely Josune Bereziartu.
Hardest actual climb - Lynn Hill.
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reno
Apr 27, 2004, 5:08 PM
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In reply to: So, in my opinion - hardest number grade climbed - definitely Josune Bereziartu. Hardest actual climb - Lynn Hill.
And this is a classic post that clearly describes why the grade means little...
My long reach makes a route 5.7, while someone who isn't as tall and has a shorter reach would grade the route much tougher.
Further, the grade only describes the moves... not the other circumstances involved: wind, temperature, etc. A "5.9" line in 60 degree temps at a local crag with sunny skies is vastly different than a "5.9" line at altitude with a 30 mph wind and snow.
Sorry to diverge from the original topic.
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filmprimate
Apr 28, 2004, 5:12 AM
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That's generally why we don't group sport and trad climbs together..
trad- Lynn Hill, The Nose
Sport- Josune B. - Bain de Sang
Onsight- Katie Brown, ( some 5.13d at the Red River Gorge)
Boulder- V12( Josune, Lisa Rands, and that British woman whose name I can't remember at this time)
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wyattearp
Apr 28, 2004, 5:51 AM
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Josune has actually cranked out a couple v14 problems that were both over 100 feet, more like a route though!
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daisuke
Apr 28, 2004, 8:07 AM
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Josune Bereziartu is probably the most acomplised female climber of current times as far as difficulty of grades goes. she has sent one 14d so far and is currently working on another, she was the first woman to climb 14c and 14d. With Lynn Hill currently "out of the picture" because of her being a mother (and I only mean that she's probably not climbing as much, so snap it shut...) it's going to take a new rising star to de-throne the basque girl's lead. I'd put my money on her to be the first one to climb 9a+ if I had to right now. however she's not a devoted big wall climber so I don't see her taking on the nose any time soon.
And yeah, no one has ever freed the nose again so that's another one I have to agree with.
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robban
Apr 28, 2004, 8:09 AM
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Katie Brown... That 5.13d would be Omaha Beach. I thought she had climbed something even harder in Spain??
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robban
Apr 28, 2004, 8:10 AM
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Katie Brown... That 5.13d would be Omaha Beach. I thought she had climbed something even harder in Spain??
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jowanky
Apr 28, 2004, 9:46 PM
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and lynn hill free climbed the nose in a day, and it hasnt been beat. That beats everything else i think, not by much tho.
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wyattearp
Apr 28, 2004, 9:51 PM
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In reply to: Katie Brown... That 5.13d would be Omaha Beach. I thought she had climbed something even harder in Spain??
yes i think it was hydrophobia or somthing it used to be rated 14a, until Tommy Caldwell Nad Katie brown, both onsighted it so the grade dropped!
Katie has climbed 14 i think...
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yosemite
Apr 28, 2004, 10:09 PM
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The greatest demonstration of determination, strength, technique, and vision in rockclimbing history is the Nose freeclimbed in a day. 11 years ago or so. Not repeated. In a week. Or month, or year, or decade. XX or XY.
Any questions?
How about hardest route climbed by a human? 2,900 feet high. Continuous.
But LH has small fingers. Too bad, Ham Hand.
Nose in a Day Free. LH. First and (still) only.
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chronicle
Apr 28, 2004, 11:08 PM
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In reply to: The greatest demonstration of determination, strength, technique, and vision in rockclimbing history is the Nose freeclimbed in a day. 11 years ago or so. Not repeated. In a week. Or month, or year, or decade. XX or XY. Any questions? How about hardest route climbed by a human? 2,900 feet high. Continuous. But LH has small fingers. Too bad, Ham Hand. Nose in a Day Free. LH. First and (still) only.
Completely agree. That is tops in my book.
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iamthewallress
Apr 28, 2004, 11:19 PM
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In reply to: The greatest demonstration of determination, strength, technique, and vision in rockclimbing history is the Nose freeclimbed in a day. 11 years ago or so. Not repeated. In a week. Or month, or year, or decade. XX or XY.
Well said! And nearly without falls at that!
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elmayimbe
Apr 28, 2004, 11:32 PM
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I agree that LH's Nose was an incredible feat when it happened, remains very impressive, & will have it's place in time even if future increase in difficulty makes today's standards pale in comparison.
But as far as the lack of repeats, from what I understand, it's not like all the hardest climbers in the world (men or women) have thrown themselves at the route. Some might be intimidated or maybe it's just out of respect for Lynn.
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iamthewallress
Apr 28, 2004, 11:37 PM
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In reply to: But as far as the lack of repeats, from what I understand, it's not like all the hardest climbers in the world (men or women) have thrown themselves at the route. Some might be intimidated or maybe it's just out of respect for Lynn.
Not true.
I've talked to two of the people who would be the most likely to repeat it. One worked on it for a short time without success, and the other simply said "There are many projects that I know that I can do in a reasonable amount of time. I can not waste my time working on projects that are not sure things."
I think it's a rare big wall free climber that has not done the Nose 'as free as they could'.
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yosemite
Apr 28, 2004, 11:49 PM
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In reply to: But as far as the lack of repeats, from what I understand, it's not like all the hardest climbers in the world (men or women) have thrown themselves at the route.
You're probably right. It's a matter of lack of interest in a free route up a local crag with no historical significance. Yeah, that's it. Why would anyone be bothered? A chick climb, at best.
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elmayimbe
Apr 29, 2004, 12:09 AM
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OK yosemite, all I was saying is that, from what I've heard, there have not been a lot of attempts by elite climbers to repeat Hill's feat. Is what I've heard inaccurate?
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elmayimbe
Apr 29, 2004, 12:20 AM
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nix my last post, I failed to notice 'iamthewallress' reply.
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foursquarewarmup
Apr 29, 2004, 1:28 AM
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In reply to: That's generally why we don't group sport and trad climbs together.. trad- Lynn Hill, The Nose Sport- Josune B. - Bain de Sang Onsight- Katie Brown, ( some 5.13d at the Red River Gorge) Boulder- V12( Josune, Lisa Rands, and that British woman whose name I can't remember at this time)
I'm guessing the British woman you speak of is Claire Murphy.
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capn_morgan
Apr 29, 2004, 2:41 AM
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[quote="yosemite"]In reply to: A chick climb, at best.
Your probably right. None of the hardmen wanna get spanked by a climb put up by some chick. Especially one who was short :P
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kalcario
Apr 29, 2004, 2:58 AM
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*yes i think it was hydrophobia or somthing it used to be rated 14a, until Tommy Caldwell Nad Katie brown, both onsighted it so the grade dropped!*
Those were flashes not onsights. Nobody in Spain calls that route 13d, by the way. Sarah Seeger who has graced this site in climbnow1's photos, recently did it and claimed it as her first 14a
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