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nzchrisb
Apr 14, 2004, 12:15 AM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2004
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Okay so I've done some easy leading with an experienced friend of mine. He's taught me to clip the bolt from the outside in ie towards the bolt. His reasoning is that if the draw rotates the hanger tries to undo it. Everyone else I've seen clips the other way ie gate away from the bolt. I've done a search here and on the web and found everyone says clip away from the bolt but with nor explaination of why. The only things I found on the web show the binner being forced open with either scheme! Anyone gove me some sound logic to take to my friend?
Chris
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halcyon
Apr 14, 2004, 12:25 AM
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Clip away from the bolt. Reason is, if you clip inward, the gate can get caught up on the bolt and unclip itself. This is especially the case with wiregates. Someone set me streight if I am mistaken.
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freakystyley
Apr 14, 2004, 1:33 AM
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It is determined by the next bolt in line...not just a std answer.
clip with gate facing opposite way you are climbing. If you are going up and the next bolt is left - the clip you just made should have the gate facing right. This way if while climbhing, the carabiner rotates upward or wiggles around, it should be on the spine and not the gate. imo.
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rngrchad
Apr 14, 2004, 1:47 AM
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Being a relatively new lead climber (5.8 range) I've been trying to get the little details to make my new experience as safe as possible. I was always taught to make sure that the biner connected to the bolt should usually be facing away from your body as you climb, and that the clipping end on the quickdraw should always have the gate facing away from the rope.
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illimaniman
Apr 14, 2004, 3:02 AM
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There are two issues here, since you have two biners, the top biner and bottom biner.
Freakystyley described the bottom biner - it depends on where your next bolt is.
But I think nzchrisb is talking about the top biner. Good luck getting a good answer on that one. It seems to be a matter of opinion. Personally, I always have the top biner facing away from the bolt, and then switch the bottom biner to face away from my direction of travel. But others will tell you that it doesn't matter, or that the other way is correct.
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reedcrr
Apr 14, 2004, 3:28 AM
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Yes the next bolt direction is the correct answer...spine of the upeer carabiner going in the direction you want to go. The upper biner that is clipped in to the bolt should be facing the opposite direction as the bottom biner.
Also just so we are not confused here the rope should go from the rock to the climber on the bottom biner so that you do not back clip.
If your climbing left the spine should be facing left so that when you come off the wall and rake across the wall from left to right the draw rotates on the spine not the gate. It is very rare that bolts are placed in a perfect stright line but if this is the case look at the next bolt and the general direction on the route to determine the direction of the spine.
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cacti-tro
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May 2, 2004, 3:20 AM
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gates should be on the same side, and not opposite. Black Dimaond has done this for a few years now. the reason is that the load of the fall should be on the spine of the beaner.
if you are climbing to the right of your draw, both the top and bottom beaners should face left.
this way the gate will face downwards and gravity will keep the spine of the beaners on the rope and bolt, and not the gate.
like i said, BD did some research on this and now all their draws retail with the gates facing the same way.
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ptone
May 2, 2004, 4:02 AM
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The one important rule that I know of is to ensure the spine of the rope end biner follow the direction you climb, to prevent a situation similar to clipping into instead of away from the wall (mentioned above)-where the rope can roll across itself and unclip in a fall (usually more of a danger on slab).
Climbing sport I clip away from the bolt. It seems unlikely to me, but the bolt is close enough that if the draw was pulled up somehow the bolt-side biner could push open against the retaining bolt, resulting in the remote possibility that the biner could cam out of the bolthole and slide down and slap the face of your belayer, resulting in a huge hassle, as your friends take sides and never really know for sure if you didn't crack your partner upside the head after a few too many....
I trust my partner with my life but such an easy after-hour sympathy/vote garnering thing? I don't know...
But seriously, Cacti-tro, if you can, stick up a link showing some evidence that sport draw biners should face the same way instead of reverse, like most do.
Thanks
-p
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fourdeadpresidents
May 2, 2004, 4:22 AM
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I have always relied on one simple trick and it always seems to work. OK so your about to clip in but instead of clipping the bolt your at PRETEND your clipping the next bolt in line gate away from you this will automatically face your rope beaner gate in the desired direction which is opposite the general direction of travel to the next bolt. If the next bolt is directly above look at the next one after that.
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