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galf
May 4, 2004, 6:50 AM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 230
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Hi,
Sunday I climbed a stiff aid pitch with many consecutive horizontal seams.
I placed a half-driven pecker which I tied off with a small nut's wire...
I also had to place a horizontal RURP. I had no clue what was the best way to reduce leverage, so I just clipped the loop, bounced it and got on with it!
It worked but it bent quite a bit. I remember reading the hole in the middle could serve to tie it for horizontals but with what?
(note: I had no small rope to thread that hole)
I thought of hooking that hole :shock: , but after the bounce test, I felt more secure clipping the loop.
So the question is:
Should I have tied it around close to the rock like the pecker, hooked the hole or is it the leverage small enough not to be of concern?
Cheers,
Guillaume
___________________________
P.S. I hope my recent questions help other aid climbers too :tinfoilhat: and bring back life to this (IMHO) stale forum
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adeptus
May 4, 2004, 11:36 AM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 322
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Sounds like a nice pitch :D
Black Diamond makes tie-off webbing for the exact purpose. It holds about 5 kN, but that shouldn’t be a problem since most aid pieces will fail before that :wink:
Have fun
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psychoredneck
May 5, 2004, 5:24 AM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: May 1, 2004
Posts: 10
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Just weld the fuking thing and get on it.
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