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wallcrawler456
May 5, 2004, 5:57 PM
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I am stuck making the jump to 5.11 and I was wondering if anybody had any tips.
Would a campus board be worth it, or should I concentrate on technique?
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mr8615
May 5, 2004, 6:09 PM
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Pick a few 11's and get on them! Keep doin them til you have them redpointed and then get on more and more and more and more. Climb more on harder routes and they'll seem easier. If you start following 11c/d and keep working that standard, before too long the 11a's will seem huge and easy and you'll have no probs leadin up them. Grades are in your head, just climb.
Mark
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rock_raptor
May 5, 2004, 6:12 PM
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BOULDER...i went from onsite 5.10 to onsite 5.11 after one winter of bouldering a lot rather than sport or trad. only down side is that it makes you really strong but you lose endurance.
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thomascrown
May 5, 2004, 6:15 PM
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i think it is extremely important to look at the route first and come up with an action plan. i break climbs up into short boulder problems. concentrate on places to rest, but also climb fast. i can't tell you how many times i have gotten redpoints b/c i didn't rest and shake out when it wasn't necessary. also, make sure you are breathing while you climb. i see so many people that are trying to break into 11's with red faces while they are climbing. Good luck.
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dredsovrn
May 5, 2004, 6:19 PM
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In reply to: I am stuck making the jump to 5.11 and I was wondering if anybody had any tips. Would a campus board be worth it, or should I concentrate on technique?
Skip 5.11 and just start going after 5.12. By the time you have 5.12 down, 5.11 will be much easier.
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fredrogers
May 5, 2004, 6:20 PM
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Have you tried some 11's? What keeps you from redpointing them? Do you:
1) succeed on toprope but never send while leading? Then it might be a mental thing. Or you need to concentrate on making efficient clips or gear placements (if you're talking about trad).
2) you can get to the top, but only after hanging multiple times? Then you can do all the moves and need to work on endurance. And work on technique to maximize your endurance efficiency
3) you can't get past a certain move? Then it might be a power thing and you should boulder more.
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nealric
May 5, 2004, 6:41 PM
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As far as campus vs technique goes... it depends.
Operate on the weakest link principle. If you have good technique but bad power, a campus board might be good *however* it takes a pretty good base level of strength to really get anything out of a campus board. I wouldnt reccomend one if you cant at least do one lap up and down.
It also depends on what type of 5.11 you are looking to do. Slab? work on crazy footwork. 5.11 roof, campus like a mofo.
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adamtd
May 5, 2004, 7:39 PM
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In my experience, when you can do 10's but 11's seem to be out of reach it comes down to technique. Obviously, everyone is different and certain climbs seem easier than others depending on the skills they require. If you have teh strength to pull 10's you should have the strength to pull 11's. I would say it's technique, and really take a strong look at your footwork. R&I just had a good article on footwork causing a grade plateau. I agree with the article. One key point they make is that good climbers look at their feet as they climb... this is key. Cheers and good luck.
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moeman
May 5, 2004, 8:34 PM
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My advice? DON'T GET INJURED!!!!!
5.11 is where the holds start getting small and injuries become a possibility. Watch those tendons, and take plenty of time off after tweaks. I was finally pushing into the 11's a couple months ago, but then I injured a tendon in my finger. Now I'm climbing 5.9. Don't be like me. Be careful-- injuries will set you back really far.
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dynoguy
May 6, 2004, 1:51 AM
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Maybe try some new shoes. I was stuck in 10s for a long time. I was climbing in old aces then I got some anasazis and never looked back. People sometimes down play the importance of a good shoe, but it can back the difference between blowing your feet out of a greasy dish and sending.
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mccombs07
May 22, 2004, 9:51 PM
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Keep at the hard routes. Thats all you can do. Just keep pushing. A campus board can be really hard on the tendons and fingers since all your weight is carried on them. Not a bad idea but definately increases injury potential.
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moeman
May 22, 2004, 10:43 PM
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In reply to: Keep at the hard routes. Thats all you can do. Just keep pushing. A campus board can be really hard on the tendons and fingers since all your weight is carried on them. Not a bad idea but definately increases injury potential.
Just don't get injured.
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el_trevor
May 22, 2004, 11:42 PM
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ll's tend to be juggy as 10's , only thing i would say is jump on a lla see how it goes then work your way up
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tyify
May 24, 2004, 7:36 AM
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Footwork footwork footwork....If you don't have the footwork you can't do 11's. That has been the biggest jump I 've seen is that once you start climbing 11's you have to transfer your weight more efficently with your feet...make things smooth and fluid instead of jerky and sharp. Try next time you go and boulder to make every move slowly and deliberatly. No slapping at holds but instead try to make everything static. This wil help you become a better climber in the long run because you will know how to make the reaches instead of just dynoing to them.
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antigrav
May 24, 2004, 10:17 AM
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Re: new shoes...
If you use socks in the shoes, try without, maybe it'll give you a grade...
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overlord
May 24, 2004, 11:35 AM
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work on your technique. and climb as many different routes as you can, both hard and easy.
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climbingfreak
May 24, 2004, 6:44 PM
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Maybe a new pair of shoes would help :D. Get solid on 10c/d just to the point of no takes or falls. Then you are ready... but don't climb for grades climb for the fun of it.
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raelinn
May 25, 2004, 12:21 AM
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if no one else has said it yet, take a Warrior's Way course from Arno Ilgner. and get his book The Rock Warrior's Way. It will change your life.
really.
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vulgarian
May 25, 2004, 12:38 AM
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Technique.
Technique.
Technique.
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l0wnsl0
May 25, 2004, 1:10 AM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
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Climb more!
Climb more!
Climb more!
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