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crack_feine1
May 6, 2004, 9:13 PM
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I was just curious what the average variance of grades is between peoples sport climbing and trad climbing. It seems a lot of people climb a few NUMBER grades lower when leading trad vs sport. Is this Normal?? I lead sport in the low 11a-b range and trad in the 10b-c range. some people seem surprised by this, especialy some hardcore sportos I know who trad about 3 number grades lower. I hope this is not a redundant post.
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crazygirl
May 6, 2004, 9:19 PM
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my trad lead level = my sport lead level.
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mattdog
May 6, 2004, 9:19 PM
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Since I haven't learned trad yet, and my hardest sport lead was 5.10a, there would be 10 grades of difference between by hardest leads. How's that for a difference!
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taino
May 6, 2004, 9:30 PM
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Three grades, at least.
Led 5.9 sport.
Lead 5.5-5.6 trad.
T
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vegastradguy
May 6, 2004, 9:36 PM
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Hardest Sport onsight: .10d
Usual Sport onsight: .10b/c
Hardest Trad onsight: .10a
Usual Trad onsight: .9ish
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gblauer
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May 6, 2004, 9:47 PM
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Sport 5.10
Trad 5.6
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mr8615
May 6, 2004, 9:50 PM
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Hardest Sport onsight: .11a
Usual Sport onsight: .10b/c
Hardest Trad onsight: .10b
Usual Trad onsight: .9+/10-
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shaggyj
May 6, 2004, 9:51 PM
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A huge difference for me, but trad is a mental game.
Sport onsight: .10d
Sport Redpoint: .12c
Trad onsight: 8/9-
Have followed 10c trad lines cleanly
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ricardol
May 6, 2004, 10:00 PM
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Hardest Sport Lead: 5.10c
Hardest Trad Lead: 5.10a
both at Pinnacles Natl. Monument. -- single pitch climbs ..
But my usual trad lead is 5.8 at Yosemite (not offwidth either!) -- currently breaking into the 5.9 crack lead
-- ricardo
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pzack
May 6, 2004, 11:23 PM
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Hardest Sport onsight: 10a
Hardest Sport Red Point: 10d
Hardest Trad onsight: 10a
Hardest Trad Red Point: 10a
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reno
May 6, 2004, 11:28 PM
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Hardest Sport Lead Climb: 10c (Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado.)
Hardest Trad Lead Climb: 9 (Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.)
Hardest Sport Follow: 10d (Boulder Canyon, Colorado.)
Hardest Trad Follow: 10+ (Lost Wall, Georgia.)
Typical Trad Lead: 8, or low 9.
Typical Sport Lead: low 10s.
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gravitytheory
May 6, 2004, 11:41 PM
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Proof positive in this thread, it seems, that many sport routes are over-rated.
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climbsomething
May 6, 2004, 11:49 PM
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In reply to: Proof positive in this thread, it seems, that many sport routes are over-rated.
And yes, it is a redundant post that's being done another time again...
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vegastradguy
May 6, 2004, 11:53 PM
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true, it is redundant, but it helps me keep my post count up since i try to stay out of community.... :lol:
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rrrADAM
May 7, 2004, 12:02 AM
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About one...
Onsited .11d Sport and .10c Trad.
Redpoints are .11d Sport and .10d Trad
Finished with just one fall (still a hangdog) .12b Sport and .11a Trad.
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gravitytheory
May 7, 2004, 12:24 AM
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Whoah, this kittens got claws. Ever heard of a little word called irony?
In reply to: In reply to: Proof positive in this thread, it seems, that many sport routes are over-rated. Proof positive in this thread, it seems, that you don't know what you're talking about. And yes, it is a redundant post that's being done another time again... |
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p_grandbois
May 7, 2004, 12:27 AM
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I haven't seen to much of a difference, just confidence wise. Other than that I am all the same 10's for both.
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caspian
May 7, 2004, 12:48 AM
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I think I am about 1 grade apart
I think if trad routes were bolted, it would even things out.
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dynoguy
May 7, 2004, 12:54 AM
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in the 11s for sports
I still haven't tried anything above .8 on trad though, yeah I'm a pansy.
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braaaaaaaadley
May 7, 2004, 12:56 AM
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sport .11d
trad 5.7
what can I say... i'm a puss when it comes to trad, but at least I will most likeley live to climb longer than some folks!
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jimdavis
May 7, 2004, 1:07 AM
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5.10b sport.
5.8 trad.
I think the longer you trad, the closer those numbers get though. My buddy guides all summer, led a trad 11c the other day. Got back on it on TR, and flailed all over it.
It's just efficency with gear; the rest is in your head.
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boltdude
May 7, 2004, 1:17 AM
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Hardest ever on-sight levels the same trad/sport/slab/bouldering. A lot lower on chimneys and offwidths, but I sure don't go looking to boost my on-sight level on hard offwidths & chimneys...5.9 is plenty good in those categories for my tastes.
Here's an interesting perspective from a non-talented but dedicated climber (me), best on-sight level, and certainly NOT "solid at" level:
1st year climbing: 5.10a sport, 5.9 trad
3rd year climbing: 5.10d sport, 5.10a trad
5th year climbing: 5.11a sport, 5.10c trad
7th year climbing: 5.10d sport, 5.11a trad
9th year climbing: 5.10c sport, 5.11a trad
Not sure how good an estimate that is since the number of hard sport routes attempted in years 7-9 was maybe 2 or 3 a year.
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manacubus
May 7, 2004, 1:23 AM
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Redpoint:
12b sport
12b trad
Onsight:
12a sport
11c trad
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keinangst
May 7, 2004, 1:24 AM
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Exactly the same, at 5.9 onsight.
(of course, I've only ever done two sport leads, but around 20 trad pitches)
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angry
May 7, 2004, 4:28 AM
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Best Trad onsight - 11d, best trad redpoint - 11d
Best Sport onsight - 11b, best sport redpoint ~ umm, I've never "worked" a sport climb.
I only climb trad and rarely jump on a sport route so I'm a lot more solid on trad. I have onsighted 12's at a gym, that's almost sport but that hardly counts. I think most people climb easier trad because they are scared. It's a matter of experience. I don't think trad is dangerous for the competent. Whatever, I might just be an exception.
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